Putting in the header pipes this afternoon- driver's side goes right in no issues. Discover one of the studs on passenger side is stripped. Of course I didn't realize this when rebuilding the engine.

Any ideas on how to back the stud out of the head? Not a lot of room in there to work...

TIA- search function didn't help much... Found a Lisle stud removal tool but don't think there is enough room to fit it in there. Trying to think what would fit that would grip the stud tight enough to twist it out.

When removing the nuts a few years ago in the beginning of the restoration (yes, it's taking that long) a couple studs came out with the nut- wish that would have happened here!!

Click to view attachment

I have a 8mm stud socket. I also have 2 different larger removal tools. When all else fails, try the double nut trick depending on how much tread you have.

With a shop like that do you have welder?

We used to weld just a tab of scrap steel to fasteners then back them out with a crescent.

But have also had the opposite problem ( them not staying in

Weld a nut on it, and be sure you have good penetration! I've never seen an extractor that will work on a T4 head. Once you've done that, apply heat to the base and go for it. Tighten a bit, loosen a bit, go back and forth til' you get it. Heat the head, not the stud, as much as possible.

The Cap'n

Tried welding a few years ago when restoring a 356- found out I'll let someone else do welding

That socket deal you have sixer looks interesting- where'd you find that?

Otherwise I'll have to get someone to bring a welder over as the car isn't exactly easy to transport!!

Double nut trick didn't work as threads aren't good enough... tried that first

I do not remember where I got it. Amazon shows to have one for $15.

Amazon

GearWrench 41760D 8 Piece SAE/Metric Stud Removal Set by GearWrench

$86.15 $47.16

I have the whole set - so should you

Measure the OD of the 8mm one. I have a set of those (mine are Stahlwille) and there's not even close to enough room to use one on a 914 exhaust stud.

The Cap'n

If you go welding a nut to the stud then heating the base, I'd recommend then cooling it with water until you can put your lips on it. The metals heat at different rates being aluminum and steel- if it's not cooled you stand the chance of the steel pulling the aluminum threads with it. When they're cooled it also happens at different rates and it usually helps the metals break free of each other. You may even have to do it a couple of times and like Cap'n sez, work it back and forth gently to get some movement and take it easy.

Try explaining that to the wife when she sees you doing it

when heating quenching often works, heat it then quench it with cold water, repeat several times. then do the weld nut trick.

The weld nut trick also adds heat to the stud, so you want to weld first then let that cool to anneal properly then do the base heating thing... done it many times with success. When it fails, it really sucks cuz it tends to snap the stud at the base.
And no, I'm not explaining that to your wife... That's your job

OP, what lift is that?

I have a pit- no lift. Those columns are support columns for the garage addition... I put the pit in MANY years ago before lifts were as popular as they are now. If I was doing it now, I'd get a nice 2 post lift so I could lift with the wheels off.