Okay I have a 73 with a 2.5 SOHC subaru conversion. It has a Stinger 4420 ECU. When I bought it sometimes when I got in it didn't want to start. It would turn over with no problem but no start. Not getting spark. I called Dean who built the car to see if it was something he had run into. It was the ignition switch & he said it seemed to go through one of those cheap switches about every 6-8 months. So I replace the switch as soon as I put the new switch in I get a puff of smoke from the new switch. It still worked fine after so didn't think much about it. So it works for a month or so & I get the same issue. Kind of off & on it doesn't want to start. By switching the key on a couple times. It would start but only for a bit as it would get progressively worse. I thought it was the starter was pulling to much through the switch. So I added a push button starter & took the wire off the key totally. Started great for a while but I am having the same issue again. So this time when it didn't start I went to my coil. Pulled the feed wires & checked the connection. All looked good. Plugged it back in & my car started right up . Well next day same deal no start . Try it again unplugging the coil & same result. It works again for the last few weeks with no problem. I make a run into town for some of my a/c parts. As I pull out of the auto zone my car dies. Won't start again so I push it back into the lot. I flat tow it home & ask my mechanic to come over. He is thinking it's the Cam or cranks sensors. Both check out. I thought maybe I may have a bad coil. So I picked up one to rule that out. That made no difference. I think it is still tied to the key ignition but a new switch made no difference. I've checked grounds & they all seem clean & fine. I've reseated any wire remotely tied to it. It really seems like the key ignition is the problem. The feed to the computer I am thinking must be pulling to much & blowing my switches. I don't know



Suggestions & please don't give me go air cooled shit okay. I love my suby setup I just need to figure out what this problem is

Sounds like your ignition switch is supplying all the power thru it.
SUBARU has installed lots of power relays which are control by the ignition switch
Main relay powers engine and 02 sensors
fuel pump relay
ETC relay (Electronic throttle)

I would check and see if you have power relays.

Your car is cursed. Japanese engines are NOT compatible with German design.

Find the ignition relay and replace it. Corrosion can build up inside.

Kind of an Axis of Evil type of thing?

BTW, check all the grounds and wire connections to the ECU.

one of the greatest things about aftermarket ecu's is the easy troubleshoot for sensors if you know the engine has been running.
If you cant get your laptop to sync to the ecu then surely there is a problem with the switch if you haven't run separate relays.

I can get my laptop to sync with the ecu .I added a relay for the starter but that is separated from the ignition switch now. I did not add one to the ignition but I do have 3 relay's next to the ECU. I switched those around with no change so I don't think it is one of them. I checked continuity of the wires running from the ECU to the cam, crank sensors & coil. I guess next would be checking the continuity of the ignition switch itself?

I hate troubleshooting. This is by far my worst area of working on my car. Taking apart & putting back together I can do pretty well. Why would the switch keep getting knocked out? Do I need to add a relay for the ignition switch? Would that keep the load from going through that cheap VW switch?

You need to figure out what you have and label it. Until then you will go in circles. Most modern EFI has a relay for the ignition, starter & fuel pump. Various others too. If you have a coil on plug system, you can draw up to 4 times the normal coil current across the ignition switch if no relay.

Find out what you have and take voltage readings at all components. Make sure you have power to your coil. This will divide your circuit a little. You don't want to waste time on the switch if you really have bad coils.

Mike I am not getting power to the coil. So to rule out this stupid switch how do I go about bypassing it. I'd like to safely put it on a toggle switch first. Or basically hotwire it to see if the ignition switch is really my issue. I don't want to much power running through the switch though. So do I add a relay there & is there a specific one I should use. Which wire or wires would it go on?

Outfront motorsports have the stinger manuals and wiring diagrams on there website. I think I would look at them before adding any relays.
Is the fuel pump coming on when you turn the ignition on?
Do you have power to the injectors?
Does it have a outfront wiring harness or did Dean make his own?

I think it has an out front wiring harness. Fuel pump turns on yes
I have not checked out power to the injectors. I will do that in a bit

Only if you throw in an Italian steering wheel

So what was the problem????

I haven't figured it out Bob. I've checked continuity on my wires from each end of the harness. All that is good. I hot wired the ignition using the fuse 8 to 9 with a jumper wire. I'm still getting no spark. Tonight I am going to check the big black wire on the fuse panel with the ignition on. I am losing the signal for spark somewhere. I've ruled out a fair amount but I am sure it is something simple. Guess it's not so simple for my simple mind to grasp

This will HELP.

Damnit that Stinger wiring looks simple. Maybe I could have saved about 60 hr's using their product.

Fascist bastard....

Yeah...I was thinking the same thing. And with the number of unnecessary wires I have all in a big ball in my trunk I still might go that way at some point.

I am running the stock Subaru coil. So there is basically the one main coil that runs all 4. It says it require's an external ignitor Is that in the stock coil? If not what does it look like?

Your running a wasted spark system with a external igniter. It drives both windings in the stock Subaru coil.
When I asked you if you had power (12VDC) to the injectors it was because this is the same supply as the coil gets. If you have power on the injectors more than likely you have power to the coil.

Be careful pretty easy to do some expensive $$$$$ damage to the ECU.