I know the cars come pre-wired, I now have stock fogs installed on my '73 1.7L, and have a few questions. Should the wires on the front be wired all the way into to foglight bodies? What the factory left is still there, including the rubber grommets so do they wire right through, or should I make connections with the wires coming out of my lights? (does that make sense?) Are all of the correct wires just ready for plug in above the fuse box? My car hasn't been fiddled with, so I have no doubt they will still be there. I bought the bypass wiring kit on eBay so that the fogs will work on the flasher and independently of the headlight switch. Anybody here have comments on that mod? Thanks ahead of time!

Lets start with the obvious, what year is your car?

Some of the early cars did *not* have the fog light wiring....

Besides that, if you have the wires they're all there. All you need is a switch on your dashboard, connect the wires and you're good to go.


PS: Not sure if the fogs use a relay, my memory on that is a bit foggy
But if they do you might have to add one to your fuse-board.

My 74 didn't come with fogs, but I added the Pilot driving lights. All the wiring was tucked in the front trunk. Just added quick spade connectors to my lights and plugged them in. Also added a fog light switch to the dash and did the trick with the headlight switch that allows me to run them without the headlights being on (search for help on that).

I hate electrical work and it was not difficult at all.

Delete.

My 75 had the wiring already in the trunk, but the car originally was ordered with the appearance group and should have hadthem in place but one of the previous owners took them out! They havve since been replaced. If memory serves me correctly its in the haynes manual .

I added fogs along with the bumper backdate on my 76; the wiring was already there behind the dash and in the front of the trunk. A nice addition to the fogs is a JWest fog kit; it allows the fogs to be used as flashers when the headlights are off, and allows use of fogs separate from the headlights. $25 clams well spent.

Here ya go.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...og+light+wiring

Keep in mind, if you use factory wiring, Fog lights will only come on when the low beams are on. .
Much simpler to make your own wiring plan, and rewire everything to use the whenever the parking lights are on. . involves moving a lead on the headlight switch. .

Question:

My fog lights can be on when the low beams are on, and go off when I hit the hi beams, just as you say above.

My question is: do you have to have the head lights on (low beams or parking lights) or can you run fog lights without he head light switch being on?

Thanks. I've got a 1972 1.7.

I am reinstalling my driving lights on my 73.

There is a rubber grommet in the light case for the wire. You do need to take the front off to plug in the wires. There is also a grommet on the body for the horn and driving lights

1973 914: What wires am I looking for coming out of the wiring harness under the dash and where/what do they hook up to? The front wiring was pretty straightforward and obvious.

Wire colors? Wire locations? I don't have the extra mod yet , but I'd to have the fogs come on by the foglight switch only for now. Sorry for all the silly questions. Before I tear into it, I'd like this to be clear.

I'm printing out the wiring diagram as we speak, but any help, helps!

Haynes manual or for color diagrams, go here:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/914/914_electrical_diagrams.htm

Delete.

In my '76 I found the appropriate colored wires and a hole for the switch under the dash. I just plugged them into the switch.

Up front I goofed and accidentally wired my new lights to wiring provided for an optional second horn. But then I found the correct wires, and again no crimps, just plug. I did have to cut into the rubber bumper to mount the lights though.

I also found that since the headlight relay will not work with the key off, I wanted the fog lights to be the same, but on when the lights are off. I found a fuse that was key switched and used this to go to the switch activating the fog light relay, moving the wires from the headlight and over to the switched fuse. Then if the key is on the fog lights come on when I pull the green switch. If I forget to turn them off, they turn themselves on when I turn off the motor.

You actually got both information and attitude. This is by far the most well moderator community I live with. Might hold off on making a judgement till a couple of questions in. These guys have gone the extra mile for me time after time, and they know.

Jeeze, seriously?


Did you follow the link to pelican i posted? The numbers on the diagram refer to numbers that are printed on the back of the stock switches, gauges and relays.

That, plus the colors of the wires should help matching the wires you have to the switch and lights.

I just modified my fog light circuit in my recently-acquired 914 six. After reading numerous docs on the mod., I didn't have that warm and fuzzy feeling nor did I want to let the smoke out of the wire harness, especially after a thread comment that the Haynes version of the 914 wiring diagram was inaccurate. Hmm. What version am I looking at on various websites? Wonderful.

In addition, there are apparently different versions of the light switch even with the same part number (914.613.414.10). This one has 10 spade connectors. There was a pic of this same switch (same part no.), but one of the connectors was labeled differently than mine. Did I want to remove all 10 wire connections to verify the term. ID? No, not even after recording wire colors with my camera. Later switches (e.g. '74) have 11 spade connectors (914.613.414.15). Thankfully, it appears wire color codes remained consistent over the years.

Instructions suggest cutting a black/blue wire from a multi-wire connector (58R or 56) and transferring/piggybacking it to another wire/terminal (K or 15). However, different docs suggest different blk/blue wires. I didn't want to risk cutting the wrong one from the headlight harness only to discover it was the wrong one.

So I verified the connector IDs by cross referencing the wire colors with the correct connector ID (58b, 58R, 30, 57, K, etc. ), charting voltage levels (0/12V) with the ignition and headlight switches in both ON and OFF positions.

After some sleuthing with a DMM and test leads, I ended up making and installing a jumper wire with piggyback connectors to connect term. 56 to K. No vehicle wires were harmed in the process and thus able to return to the previous/next setup if necessary.

Click to view attachment

Here are the results:
Previous
Ign Sw. ON
Headlight Sw. 1st detent - parking lights ON; fog light switch inactive
Headlight Sw. 2nd detent - parking lights ON; headlights pop up and ON; fog light switch active

After rewiring:
Ign Sw. ON or OFF
Headlight Sw. 1st detent - parking lights ON; fog light switch active
Headlight Sw. 2nd detent - parking lights ON; headlights pop up and ON; fog light switch active

This setup provides some options and perhaps more clarity to activate the fog lights. Others may prefer the light circuit dependent on the ignition switch. YMMV.

Next mini-project: Install a momentary toggle switch to the circuit to independently flash the fog lights OFF>ON.

Hope this helps,
Sherwood

3-22-15 Update: A more thorough night time road test revealed the above wiring connection has these repercussions:
a. Instrument lights are No Op (NG)
b. If: Ign. ON or OFF. fog lts. ON or OFF, with headlights ON:
- Pressing Lt switch to the 1st detent (parking lts.) leaves the headlights ON (should be OFF).
- High beam indicator is ON (headlights on low beam). Pulling the turn signal stalk momentarily switches the fog lights ON.
c. Affect on emergency flashers is unknown (currently no op)

Will have to either snip a wire per published wiring mods and confirm that strategy works on this chassis or rewire the fog light circuit independently from the light switch. Probably the latter. Perhaps an opportunity to install a ON-OFF-Mom ON lever switch in place of the factory fog lamp switch.

Completion of project at post #35

Very basic question here:

I've never pulled off the fog light grills on my '74. Can I assume the wiring's there?

Is there a bulb housing back there? If not, where do I get one (well, two) and how much moola?

Also, I would need the OEM dash switch. Are they readily available?

Thx.

Wiring is present behind the grilles. The switches are quite common too. The wiring is behind the dash above the headlight switch. You have to make a ground wire or even better, buy the JWest flasher kit on eBay. It is fairly straightforward. Fogs come up here on the board about once a week.

Yes, no, and yes.

The wiring will be in the trunk. Find it and push it through the rubber grommets to the area behind the bumper.

You have to get the lights and brackets. Stock ones are available used for a moderate amount of money (or a lot more for ones in top condition) but there are popular brands of fog lights and driving lights (e.g., Pilot) that fit the stock location at least as well as the stock lights did. You have to find/fake/fab a mounting bracket for those, but some of those lights are quite cheap IIRC.

The switches are available used. Not sure about new. Your favorite 914-specialist wrecking yard should have a pile of them. In my area, I'd call up Rich at High Performance House in Redwood City, or Partsheaven in Hayward, or EASY in Emeryville. I'm not sure, but I think the switch body can be substituted for one from a 911, but the knob is different.

--DD

Thanks, guys.

Any of you out there with some foggies for sale? If so, please PM me.

If anyone has a link to some aftermarket ones that fit, that would be appreciated too.

Bruce Stone should have something. I know somebody who might have some. I'll let you know.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=250889

Thanks, I sent him a PM.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=251551

Thks again, I sent him a PM.

Hey, do you have a link to the flasher kit? I searched EBay, and there are a bunch of different ones.

Thx.

http://www.jwesteng.com/shop/index.php?id_...troller=product

Here's a place that has the Pilot lights:

http://www.camp914.com/products/lights.html

Camp Counsellor Craig is cool. He's pretty well known around here, but I can't remember his user name off the top of my head. (Maybe "camp914"?)

--DD

Thanks, guys.

OK, I purchased the lights from PCA7GGR. I like that they are high output (100watt).

He recommended that I buy a Bosch relayy kit to add to the fog light circuit:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wire-Harness-Relay...ac2&vxp=mtr

I ordered that too. Do I still need the kit that you recommend, Lawrence?

I still need to find some grills and a dash switch. The one in the above link was from an earlier year and not the correct color.

Heh, Sergio is local to me. He was one of my autoX instructors early on. He had a track car (Big Track) with a stout Six in it and a locked diff. The only way it would go around a tight corner was to stomp the loud-pedal and slide the back around it.

I've bought a few things off him at local swap meets over the years.

He looks a little like Wolfman Jack did...

--DD

There already is a fog light relay built into the 914 system - round relay, bottom right. However, I agree. Install a separate and independent HD relay (e.g. 30A) and switch (perhaps ON-OFF-Mom ON) to control the (2) 100W lamps, including using heavier gauge wires for the power circuit from source to each lamp. Some folks prefer installing a relay for each lamp.

Click to view attachment

Sherwood

Thanks. Once I have all my stuff assembled, I'll bug you guys for details of how to wire it up.

Will I need to drill the dash to install the fog light switch, or is there already a hole behind the facing material?

The hole is there, you will find it.

Perfecto, I suspected as much.

So far, a couple here have offered switches for sale, but not the yellow one yet.

Should I still order that flasher unit you recommended, even with the Bosche relay kit I ordered?

To complete my project posted at #16, I removed the bridging jumper wire on the light switch due to the issues described.

For safety, remove the battery ground wire before beginning.

I ended up making the fog light circuit independent from the light switch circuit.

Disconnect the black/blue source wire from the fog light switch (E7) and zip-tie the wire to the other fog light wires to isolate it (ID it with tape for future owners). BTW, the black/blue wire is the same wire on term. 56 of the light switch that previous docs suggest snipping and piggybacking onto term. K (on my switch).

Not wanting to cut any factory wires, I left the light switch harness intact. Instead, install a new source circuit from the fuse box directly to the fog light switch. I selected fuse no. 2 (source for voltage to the emergency flasher - constant 12V). Route and attach the new wire to the circuit side of the fuse with a piggyback connector. Since this is merely a control wire for the fog light relay, can be small gauge wire (16-18 ga.).

Route and attach the other wire end with a female spade connector to the now-disconnected fog light male spade connector. Reinstall battery ground cable, then test and confirm before reinstalling fog lamp switch and fuse box (removed for access).

Click to view attachment

Results:
Factory light switch wire harness not disturbed
Fog lights operational w/Ign. ON or OFF, headlights ON or OFF, UP or DOWN, running lights ON or OFF
Factory wires left intact (except existing fog light source wire disconnected and isolated)

Sherwood