Full Version: Treating inner long
Ok another Dumb question .Cut out rust on top of rear long in the Hell Hole .Inside of long is'nt too bad so I vac out now what before I weld it up.Spray a rust killer or some type of primer or nothing at all,Whats been done by you pros .Thanks again.Sorry to be such a pain
if you can get a rust stopper in there, doit.
Use a wand to spray as far in as you can, then POR 15 it after the rust killer has done its stuff.
Rich
Use a wand to spray as far in as you can, then POR 15 it after the rust killer has done its stuff.
Rich
This is the same post I made a few weeks ago, when someone asked about treating rust in the tunnel
OK, my secret technique revealed!
What we do in my restoration shop is clean, treat/arrest the corrosion, repair any corrosion that involves very heavy pitting or perforation, treat with phosphoric acid wash, rinse, dry, and paint. We use a undercoating kit that can be purchased at JC Whitney, Eastwood, and other auto supply houses. We treat the entire car, that is all the dead air spaces, boxed support members, etc.
First remove the control cables, and shift mechanism, as well as the pedal cluster, and most of the interior. Mask off the wiring harness with plastic and masking tape. Clean out the tunnel with compressed air and a shop vac. Manually scrape whatever you can reach with wire brushes, stainless toothbrushes, etc. Next you need very hot water and cheap automatic dishwashing detergent (like cascade). You don't want to get this on finished surfaces, as the trisoduim phosphate can dull painted surfaces. Mix up hot water with the detergent, and spray in into the tunnel. With the undercoating kit you get spray wands and different nozzles to blast in the corners, etc. Again, use the shop vac to remove the water. Next rinse with clean warm water, and clean this up. Blow dry with compressed air and the undercoating wands and nozzles. Check out the cleaning job with a light and a inspection mirror, make sure everything is nice and clean. Let it dry for a few days. At this point a little flash rust isn't going to hurt anything. Now it gets more fun! You can use Ospho, Oxysolve, any corrosion treatment with phosphoric acid that leaves a phosphate coating. You mix up the acid as directed, and after you've donned your safety goggles, respirator, and rubber gloves, you spray the area with the acid mixture. Most of them require liberal dousing, and you want to keep it wet for several minutes, longer if you've got more serious corrosion. Next you rinse the acid off with water, and clean it up. Blow it dry. Let it sit for a few days. Last you can use the same undercoating kit to blast your favorite corrosion paint over the treated areas.
This is alot of work, and makes a big mess, but it's the best thing you can do to mitigate corrosion. It's also a good thing to do if you've welded on structural supports like the GT stiffening kit, Mayeur kit, etc. If you don't treat the backside of a panel that you've welded, it will rust
OK, my secret technique revealed!
What we do in my restoration shop is clean, treat/arrest the corrosion, repair any corrosion that involves very heavy pitting or perforation, treat with phosphoric acid wash, rinse, dry, and paint. We use a undercoating kit that can be purchased at JC Whitney, Eastwood, and other auto supply houses. We treat the entire car, that is all the dead air spaces, boxed support members, etc.
First remove the control cables, and shift mechanism, as well as the pedal cluster, and most of the interior. Mask off the wiring harness with plastic and masking tape. Clean out the tunnel with compressed air and a shop vac. Manually scrape whatever you can reach with wire brushes, stainless toothbrushes, etc. Next you need very hot water and cheap automatic dishwashing detergent (like cascade). You don't want to get this on finished surfaces, as the trisoduim phosphate can dull painted surfaces. Mix up hot water with the detergent, and spray in into the tunnel. With the undercoating kit you get spray wands and different nozzles to blast in the corners, etc. Again, use the shop vac to remove the water. Next rinse with clean warm water, and clean this up. Blow dry with compressed air and the undercoating wands and nozzles. Check out the cleaning job with a light and a inspection mirror, make sure everything is nice and clean. Let it dry for a few days. At this point a little flash rust isn't going to hurt anything. Now it gets more fun! You can use Ospho, Oxysolve, any corrosion treatment with phosphoric acid that leaves a phosphate coating. You mix up the acid as directed, and after you've donned your safety goggles, respirator, and rubber gloves, you spray the area with the acid mixture. Most of them require liberal dousing, and you want to keep it wet for several minutes, longer if you've got more serious corrosion. Next you rinse the acid off with water, and clean it up. Blow it dry. Let it sit for a few days. Last you can use the same undercoating kit to blast your favorite corrosion paint over the treated areas.
This is alot of work, and makes a big mess, but it's the best thing you can do to mitigate corrosion. It's also a good thing to do if you've welded on structural supports like the GT stiffening kit, Mayeur kit, etc. If you don't treat the backside of a panel that you've welded, it will rust
I just went through this on mine. Vacuum out the long & then put some Synco-Ospho in a spray bottle & spray it in there liberally. Let it dry overnight & then spray the whole area with zinc primer. Let that dry & then top coat it with rustoleum. I took the spray nozzle & extension tube off a can of carb cleaner & used it on the primer & rustoleum cans. Once the long is close up no water should be able to get in to cause more problems.
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