I have local to me a 1974 2.0 w/ 93,000 miles. Great story, all original, numbers matching, clean, but just no documents to support it since it was left in an estate. Car is Phoenix Red, and is listed for $14,900. I think I can get it for $13,000.

Is this a good buy? I like the color and the year and know good examples are few and far between. Pictures attached.

Blaine Sellie

FYI....Hell hole has been repaired. That was a before picture. Here are a few more..

Price seems a bit high to me from what I can see in the pics, and not knowing engine and tranny condition, but others may disagree. I'd put it in the $9-$11k range.

Assuming it spent it's life in the rainy PNW, I would recommend taking the battery out and really poking around the hell hole with a screwdriver to make sure there aren't any holes. The rear suspension ears and in the front floor pan where the master cylinder is also a good place to check for rust (and doesn't require removing the pedal board).

Find someone near the car to do a PPI.

Looks pretty good! Do a check of the door gaps with the top off and 225 lb person in the car to see in they change or if the car flexes when they bounce. The door gaps looked a little tight but it could just be the picture angle. But look at the door jams to see if there are any signs of the door rubbing.

I would suggest a pre purchase inspection and make sure that includes a compression and leak down test.

Pop out one of the main gauges a look at the wiring behind to be sure it hasn't been chopped up.

Check the rubber seals on door, both trunks, windows, and targa seals. At that price they should be in good shape.

Also look closely in the trunks and under the front and rear fender wells for any signs of wrinkled metal which would be a sign of a prior crash.

I agree with MBlizzard's comments. From the pix, at least, looks pretty good. If you get a PPI and all checks out well, $13 is a reasonable price, IMHO.

Longs look ok, but I see hell hole rust, and potential for more "hidden" rust in inner longs ect...

Id say "mostly" original. Its definitely a 74, but Mahles, Fuchs or Sport Steelies were correct fitment in 74. Also it seems to have late Oil temp guage in the console....

I like it.

Yup, those look like Pedrinis. I don't think those were an option for the 74s. It would also be good to know if they are the "early" version (part number ends in .00) or the 1973 (.01) version. If the former, the wheels or hubs must be machined for the wheels to fit the front hubs. Or the hubs/struts/brakes must be switched for the pre-73 parts.

--DD

Better run and go get this car, with all the info you posted here it will be gone shortly!

I would get that rain tube fixed.

That's a '73 model year oil temp gauge. The '74 through '76 oil temp gauge had a smaller red zone.

Blaine, if you buy this car, I'll gladly trade you my '74 oil temp gauge for this '73 gauge.

Example of '74 - '76 oil temp gauge (not mine):

Kinda depends on the VIN. I have an early '74 2.0 (#700) and it has silver buttons on the speedo and tach, plus the larger red area on the oil temp gauge. I'm certain those items are original to the car.

The silver dot dash gauges would be correct for an early VIN 1974 model...Not sure but I think the wide band oil temp gauge might also be correct for that vintage, whereas the oil temp gauge went to the narrow band for the later 1974 models (and black dot gauges)

Sorry, you guys are correct. I didn't notice the silver dot gauges in the instrument cluster.

It's an early VIN 1974, produced in 1973. All the pictures are from before his work treating the hell hole and longs. It's solid, so I bought it! Adding a second Porsche to the stable. The fun begins

Thanks for all your replies. I look forward to being a contributing member of this forum.

$13k was final price.

I must have fallen asleep for 10 years or so....

$13k for a non-6 ????? Since WHEN?

I can imagine a 95% concours -4 approaching 10k, but WTF?

So if I had taken all the parts off the car I just sold for $900 and put them on my rust free race conversion that I paid ~$2500 for, I could have made over $7k????

Did you open the rear trunk? Hard to tell exactly but it looks as tho the hinge arm is either rusty has or has been replaced poorly. Look UNDER the battery. Best would be a skilled eye with the car on a lift for a PPI. That money will pale when you find probs down the road.There's more rust. There always is.

Good Morning Rip Van Winkle

Welcome Back Rip Van Winkle!

Above $12k for a -4 in good condition is the New Norm. You can buy mine for $21k if you would like.

I'd be wary of the inner longs on the car. All depends what you wanna do with it?

If you want a good/great condition daily driver to run about for 3-5 years and then tear it down and restore it later, you are probably looking at the right car.

Ok then I got a great deal on a 95% rust free complete FI running car (Brant saw it it IS rust free) with a trailer, spare 2.0L engine, and an extra set of Fuchs for $3600.

AND I got screwed for barely being able to GIVE away a driving FI 1.7L car with all very nice parts for $900 delivered (less than 1 year ago).

Some Ebay auctions over the last few months ...
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lot 'o money for a -4 non le

Congrats!!! Of course, it's always hard to give a good review of a car just from photos, but looks like a solid car from what I am seeing.

There are a few areas with rust significant enough that I'd be doing some repairs, but they don't look all that bad.

Expect to spend a bit more sorting out things now that you own the car. But, looks like a good buy.... congrats!!!!

[And post more photos]

My idea was to find a worthy driver that may need some minor work. I'm gonna have the kids drive it to school and work, the BMW repairs are killing me! I want them to learn to work on this stuff like I did when I built my Datsun 510 when I was young.

The current owner restored 356's and has done most of the refurbishing. He wire brushed, acid treated and POR 15'ed the hell hole and longs. They just need base coat to look pretty. Attached are pictures of the trunk and hood areas.

My early '74 (build date 8/73) has the same gauge package as this one. Silver button & wide red band on the console temp gauge.

Lookin' good!!!

Here's two areas (circled in red) that you might want to look at in a little more detail and address when you get a chance:

Will do! Trunk and hood area look ok?

Yep, hood and trunk look very good to me. Over time, you can start cleaning up the smaller areas (ex: the bit of rust in the jack hole area, rocker area, etc.). You will find more as you poke around. Overall, the car looks very good and these are all things that can be taken care of fairly easily.

Since you are in an area of a lot of rain and humidity, be ever vigilant to stay on top of rust and take care of it quickly.

Prices must be coming up. I purchased this 73 2.0 with 103K in 2011 for $5500. Has a rust issue around the sail panel on the passenger side. A couple small cuts in the seats. Otherwise in very good condition. Has been re-painted, but decent job.