hi,

I have been procrastinating doing this even though I have read pages of

"how to do" this valve adjustment. I decided to use the tech article pelican has

provided, at this link

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...alve_adjust.htm

so all I have done to this engine is to change out the push rod tube o rings and

then the tail cone gasket and the shift rod o ring and rubber bushing.

when I first removed the engine I did squirt some oil into the spark holes.

I could turn the impellor fan and the engine would turn as long as I felt like doing so.

now.

I have a hard time turning the engine by hand using the impellor fan. the spark plugs are out.

I was able to get "A" "B" and "c" to TDC for cylinder #1. I adjusted the valves to .006

and moved on to #2 which is where you see A,B,C current setting for.

if you look where #2 is positioned it is not TDC as the rockers are not "equal".

hopefully you will be able to straighten me out on this problem of mine.

tks

randal
Click to view attachment

If you went in the direction the engine is supposed to turn, you went to cylinder #4. Turn the flywheel (or fan) some more--I think a full 360 degrees--and check #2 again.

Firing order is 1-4-3-2.

--DD

tks for the reply

as you look at the fan from the front which would be the correct way to turn the

fan? I thought I had turned it the correct way as the rotor ended up

90 degrees counter clockwise from start position via the notch in the distributor.
"
Cylinder #1 Driver-side Rear Rotor at 12 o'clock
Cylinder #2 Driver-side Front Rotor at 9 o'clock
Cylinder #3 Passenger Side Rear Rotor at 6 o'clock
Cylinder #4 Passenger Side Front Rotor at 3 o'clock "


now I can not turn it any further........

so what would keep me from being able to turn the engine by hand????

It does not have any oil in it as I drained it when I removed the engine.

I can use a large driver and through the starter hole use the teeth and move

it one tooth at a time.

I removed the blower housing so I could grab the fan easier, still, no go.

randal

That intake valve on #2 is fully open. Adjust the valve opposite that one. Turn the engine, do that 7 more times and your done.

well I broke the inlet rocker arm on number two while trying to turn the engine

using a ratchet on the impeller hub nut.

now what.

would it be ok to just replace the broken rocker arm or the whole rocker

assembly for number two?

any ideas as to why it broke?

from the image above that is how the rocker arms were when I

tried to turn the engine this morning.

the only thing I can think of is that prior to taking the image I

had loosened the nut on the inlet rocker and then tighten back to where it

was as the valve spring did not relax when I loosened the valve adjusting

screw. at least as far as my memory.

the other image is of the inside of the inlet valve , not very clear.

the engine turns fine now that I broke the inlet rocker arm.

so is it a stuck valve or ???


tks

randal

Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

The only way I can imagine that happening is that you over-tightened the valve adjustment screw, then tried to force the engine past that valve being already open all the way.

Those look like the later model (2.0L) rockers from the pics but not sure.

If they are the later, it should be easy to find a replacement.
The early rockers are in demand and you will not likely find someone willing to break up a set (sorry, pun not intended).

when in doubt about the correct rotational direction look at the alt belt. the engine will be spinning the correct direction with the top of the belt going towards the alt.

It just Clockwise when looking at the fan and clockwise when looking down at the Dist rotor.

Is it me or is that valve guide look cracked at the tip ?

You might not have the pushrods seated correctly in the lifter which might let the valve contact the piston

tks for the replies,

I decided that it was my mistake in not getting the push rod seated as the above

post suggested. see image

I have another engine that I have used the whole rocker assembly to replace

the broken rocker arm and the rest of the assembly.

the only question is the screws are allen heads ( #2) and the screw is different

where it contacts with the valve/spring? ............ vs the original #1.

the engine number from the extra engine is EA090564 and the

engine from my car is EA088739. looked it up and they are both 73's 1.7L


any thoughts?

tks.

randal
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

the valve guide is not cracked, just rust, I cant get enough light into the hole for

the image.

especially thankful for the easy way to remember which way the engine spins.