I have the Holley Red.
I'm currently wired through the '74 relay board with the F/I pins grounded for "key-on" fuel pump power at the stock location.

It is not reliable. power cuts out at random.
Thinking about the use of the console blower pull lever as an option or an illuminated toggle off the dash with an in line fuse holder.

What is being done. The blower lever would be a nice anti-theft. The thief could only get about 1/4 mile down the road.

( I hate the way thieves act. Pathetic, lazy, losers. No future. )

I'd like to know why my stock power source is fritzy.

KT

The PO wired the fuel pump off a position on the fuse box with a switch under the dash as a theft deterrent. I get about 1/4 of a mile down the road quite often before it starts cutting out. Amazing how often all of the possible causes of cutting out go through my head before I realize I turned the switch off.

If your pump is in the engine compartment, just get power off of the +12V at the coil. There are usually extra spade connectors already on that terminal, so you can just slide on an extra wire connection and you are done.

No anti-theft though, but there are better ways of anti-theft than a switch to power off the fuel pump.

Demick

QUOTE (trekkor @ Jan 24 2005, 10:11 PM)

It is not reliable. power cuts out at random.

well, then, why not fix it?

it werks fine for me, so you must have done something wrong somewhere.
did you check for lose ground wire? did you check your jumper-cable?
did you check the wires to the fuel-pump? brittle? connectors OK?
fuel pump OK?

it's probably as simple as a lose crimp-connector ...
Andy

QUOTE (Demick @ Jan 25 2005, 09:55 AM)

If your pump is in the engine compartment, just get power off of the +12V at the coil. There are usually extra spade connectors already on that terminal, so you can just slide on an extra wire connection and you are done. No anti-theft though, but there are better ways of anti-theft than a switch to power off the fuel pump. Demick

This is not suggested. Pulling power from the coil will reduce the spark available to the engine, resulting in a poor running engine. Plus the circuit is designed for the ignition load only.

Do it right and hook it to the factory fuel pump circuit. If you still have problems, the find out what is failing in that circuit. Dont be someone's future DAPO.

QUOTE

This is not suggested.

Thanks, Clay. I think Demick is trying to slow me down.













JK, Demick, of course.

KT

Clay is playing it safe - nothing wrong with that. But there is plenty of power available at the coil to run the pump too. If not, then you've got some other problems to sort out.

Demick

My test set-up used shared power for the coil and fuel pump and worked great.

KT

What's killing me is, the stock fuel pump never used to cut out.
I have a direct wire off the battery I use to power the pump when it loses power from the relay board, so I know the pump is fine. ( and to get home )

KT

QUOTE (trekkor @ Jan 27 2005, 06:59 PM)

What's killing me is, the stock fuel pump never used to cut out.

well, did you cut the stock connector and crimped on new connectors for the new pump?
switched relays around? wiggle them while the engine is running ...
ground jumper to jumper FI-Brain ok?

did you insulate the hot wire to the heater blower correctly?
if that shorts out, it'll also short out the fuel-pump ...

there's not much in that circuit (from the relay to the pump) that can go wrong.
just put your multi-meter to some good use ...
Andy

This is all taken care of now.
Power is key on from the relay board at the FI socket. I use the terminal that is the right-front. the one closest to the engine and driver.

Has not failed even once.

KT