I'd like to know what some of the members are running for a type iv. Please answer the following questions:

1. What is the stroke, bore, and CC's of the engine?

2. If the engine is stroked over 71mm what case work was needed?

3. What cam are you running?

4. If using carbs/EFI, what is the setup?

5. What's the HP, or do you feel the engine has good torque/HP for the setup you have?

6. Comments on anything else...

Hine62

103 bore, 80mm stroke, reduced base circle cam, relieved case and big end of the rods...had to machine case for the cylinders, ordered heads to fit the larger cylinders..fuel injected megasquirt...horsepower? no idea, but pulls a lot better than stock! 150+ or so..torque to match. I set this up to be a torque monster..so far it is. I need a lot more tire as I light them up way too easily. it makes autocross a lot of fun.

I have about the same engine as Herb in my '67 bug, look at my signature...torque monster is an understatement.

mines a 94mmx78mm
makes it a 2258
we did clear the case slightly but it was not a huge deal with Jorges rods.
Running dual webber 40 IDF carbs
Not sure about the hp but i can tell you its heavy to move around on the cart in my garage, hopefully ill know more soon!

Mine was a 1.8 (1756) to a 1911. I used the 66mm crank and went with 96mm pistons and cylinders from KB and AA. Bought from the type 4 store, so they have Hasting rings.

Got a 9550 cam from Jake... The one that runs best with FI, I am working from memory here.

I do have OEM L-Jet injection. just under 8 on my CR. I added 911 rockers with swivel feet. went thru the whole push rod measuring and fabrication thing too. HAM re-worked my heads with new valves, etc.... He opened the ports and increased the valve size to the OEM 2 liter size valves.

I ditched the points and condenser and got a little HOT START module from eBay.

Stock '75 exhaust for now.

I did adjust the AFM gear about 11 teeth to account for the increased displacement.

Not sure about the HP, maybe I'll check it one day.

Clark

Great info! I'd post mine but it's stock 1.8 with dual 34s and it needs more power...

Anyone else want to post their setup?

Hine62

FAT Perfromance built. 76 crank, 96 pistons, 44idf Webers, Euro Headers, ceramic valve lifters. 147 HP at 5,500 RPM.

I didn't build the motor - but it is in my car and runs great:

Schneider Cams carb cam. (similar to the webcam 86)
-Brand new Febi lifters
-Chromoly pushrods
-911 swivel foot adjusters (real german ones)
-Solid rocker spacers from Jake Raby
-Cylinder heads were rebuilt by Adrian at HeadFlow Masters in Vista with new stainless valves, new guides and seats, and any cracks welded and remachined
-Chamber work and porting performed by Sean Molloy at SD Autosport
-74mm welded and reground original crankshaft.
-96mm pistons and cylinders from AA pistons.
-Lightened flyweel.
-9:1 compression ratio.
-Scat deep sump pan. (Increases oil capacity an extra 1.5 quarts)
-Headflow masters oil pressure relief valve (I run 30 psi oil pressure at idle when the oil is at 210 degree F)
-Melling cast iron high volume pump

Induction:
-Weber 40 IDF carbs, jetted perfectly for the motor using 32mm venturis. Jetting performed using a wideband AFR.
-CFR throttle linkage, perfect sync, all day, every day
-CB performance long intakes, port matched to heads.
-AN-6 fuel fittings and stainless braided lines throughout the engine bay.
-K&N air filters

Exhaust:
-Kerry Hunter header
-Stainless steel magnaflow muffler, exits on the passenger side.

Ignition:
-Mallory Unilite, and MSD plug wires both purchased from Chris Foley at CFR.
-MSD 6AL rev limiting ignition box
-MSD blaster 2 high vibration coil

My new rebuild I just finished,(still putting together megasquirt 2xtra ignition/8 plugs)

84c x 103 ( 2800cc )
5.7 h-beam rods
moly coated main,rod & cam bearings
new pauter dual pattern cam ( 1" base circle )
1.48 pauter bushed roller tip rockers
dual taper cromoly pushrods

old school aria's forged pistons , ceramic coated tops & moly coated skirts
48x38 11 to 1 cr. heads with ceramic coated chambers & valve faces
CB's vw650 springs with BP's titanium retainers & modified comp-cams lash caps
twin spark plug conversion

1 7/8 cfr tangerine exaust
CB's 48mm dual throttle bodies & efi (eventually megasquirt 2xtra efi )
custom dry-sump oil system
11 lbs. flywheel, KEP stage II p.p. & custom clutchnet disc

cheers Bill D.

Damn, that's an awesome type 4! I look forward to seeing the dyno chart on this one.

I'm running a stock 2.0 D-jet. 95HP, 94 x 71 B/S. While I may go bigger when this engine gets tired, I must say I'm impressed with it. It pulls hard in all gears, gets 27MPG and is very reliable (after working out a few bugs).

What are your plans (and budget) for the car? I would base your engine choice on that.

Thank you very much , here's a little video ,it has carbs & distributor
for the purpose of cam breakin , (twin plug ignition not ready ) 2nd run
after valve & timing ajustment , thanks Bill D.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pT3PC3JE350...eature=youtu.be

Stock '71 - 1.7 in a stock car. Minimal horsepower, barely enough torque. Driving it makes me smile

2056 w AA cylinders and KB pistons. 9550 cam, Ljet, 9:1 cr. SS heat exchangers, Leistritz factory muffler.

Runs very well after cold start up, which requires throttle control to keep it running. A minute or so later, all's good.

2056cc with 96mm pistons 71mm stroke, 9 to 1 CR, 42x38 valves, HD valve springs, 9550 cam, Djet tuned. About 120hp, revs to 6500 with ease.

Home rebuild of a stock '76, FI 2L.

My crank was bent so I bought a counterweighted stock crank from Rimco and balanced the rods, flywheel, etc. I think the counterweighted crank is smoother @highway speeds than my stock 1.7 and a '70 bug I have.

AA flat top piston, cyl assemblies. The stock pistons were dished so the flat tops give a little more compression. AA parts need to be measured and matched...

HAM rebuilt my heads and I bought a Raby 9550 cam kit. Used Jake's video to put it together (but remember the oil sump baffle..tray..thingy...)

Pertronics II and coil.

It has plenty of power for me and pulls nicely thru a near stop in 2nd gear. I get 30/35 mpg. Highway speeds of 75 -80. I've had it up to 125 indicated with stock/tall tires. My head temps run 275 to 325, sometimes 350 if there's a head wind. Oil temps are around 200 this summer with a cooler in the deck lid. I'm going to take it off this fall and see how it does.

Rimco and HAM were good to work with and the Raby cam does everthing he says it does. The ignition hasn't failed yet.

I can't wait to do another one. I'll try a 2056. Good luck

2056 cc
European Motorworks 96mm pistons & barrels
Webcam 86 & lifters
2L heads by Brothers Machine, Stock valve sizes, mild port & polish, dual valve springs
Stock 71mm crankshaft
Megasquirt engine management (FI & ignition)
Stock intake & injectors
European Racing headers & muffler (GT Racing)
Haven't been on a dyno yet so I don't know the HP/torque

My LE has it's original 2.0 engine using stock D-jet FI & cam, w/ OEM Mahle euro pistons & cylinders, Bursch tuned exhaust, K&N air filter & Pertronix ignition. Not a heavily modified engine but I'm guessing between 100-105 bhp. Smooth, torquie & fun

Lots of great information. It looks like the 2056 is the most performed up grade. With a 71mm crank the case doesn't need to be machined.

@Dtjaden Did you install the megasquirt? How much did you spend?

hine62

Mine does that too. I am getting good at the big toe on the brake and the pinky toe on the gas 'til I get out of the neighborhood.

What causes that cold or early idle issue?

You are the 2nd to report having the same cam that I have and both have 9:1 CR. you both have the 2056 while mine is 1911. Jake was adamant about me staying at or under 8 CR with my 1911 cc engine, but really did not (or would not) tell me why. I trusted in the expert opinion and I am happy with the result, just curious. Anyone know why?

Clark

Malcolm, I'll be damned if'n I can't cipher this one out. But it's frustrating. I just ordered an AFR today and hope to see if that can give me an indication of what's going on. My head temps are perfect, my oil temp is right at 210*, but I'm not getting the MPG's I think I should. Yes, I'm a CSOB, that's a given 'round here.

I recall a not so distant thread about drilling a hole in the throttle plate, but I haven't done that yet. I missed out on a couple TB's while at Hershey, so at least I know replacements are available if I bugger this one.

I'm also considering eliminating the AAR to see if that helps. It functions as it should, but maybe the additional air doesn't help.

Lest anyone think the Ljet is maxed out stock, all I can say is I've driven Chris Foley's creation in 2.2 form, and it's incredible. Reminds me of my 2.7 911.

Someday...

I am right with you on the temps and low MPG.... 22 to 25, I have seen folks post higher numbers.

I have sniffed the tail pipe and everyone here seemed to think I was in the sweet spot thru the whole range.

Tim had me try a few things last year. I have the Decel off and a few other hoses plugged. We have not had a chance to get back together. But he has gotten me where I am now and that is awesome. If you figure it out, let me know.

Yuppers on the MPG's. They're better with the top on but I'm right where you are. And if I'm having fun with the top off that number drops a wee bit more.

No hoses plugged. I've gone through a half dozen cans of carb cleaner to try and find any possible leaks. I think I've got 'em all...

Have you got an AFR hooked up?

The 9550 cam which is too rich at cold idle due to the not as good as stock vacuum due to valve overlap. Live with it....

As too why a 1911 shouldn't be more than 8 to 1

Oh, I get 25 to 30 mpg depending on my foot.

Its all in the combo.

Yes, built & installed the Megasquirt. Spent a lot of time on the wiring using Delphi Weather Pak connectors including bulkhead connectors. My startup with the megasquirt went smoothly, first FI and then ignition. However, it is not for the faint of heart.

Tuning takes patience, a lot of reading of documentation and time spent on the Megasquirt forums, and a methodical approach. I still am not satisfied with the cold idle and some transitions areas but it is still much better than the dual Weber 40 idf carbs that were on the car before the rebuild.

Megasquirt (MS3X) cost including the wiring, Innovate AFR, injector rebuild, sensors, etc. was around $1,000.
My next step is to spend some time on a dyno to do fine tuning. By the way, my final compression ratio was 8.8:1.

Hello,

"2056"
76 case,stock crank,
"Mild" FAT cam, Lift 413,Duration 258.
works well with fuel inj. Web solid lifters
96mm JE pistons 9.5:1 compression,71mm AA cylinders
CIS Fuel inj. (Rabbit/924 stuff), 009 distributor with compufire
Runs well, torque is there thru upper rev range
Sweet spot around 3500-4200rpm ,feels that way anyhow.
On paper around 120HP ?? Need to dyno.
Extra oil cooler with fan next to tranny.
Oil temps 190-210*F
Quite pleased.

2056.
Raby 9350 carb cam.
german cylinders machined out.
KB pistons.
stock rods.
ceramic lifters.
all the Raby improved valvetrain kit.
Was running carbs, ultracoil and a mallory optical dizzy.
Changing to microsquirt and crank fired ignition.

Zach