I got this via another car guy forum.

For All of you Mechanic's and Self doer’s out there.
Penetrating Oil - interesting
This was in one of the Military Vehicle Club newsletters

Here is an interesting article submitted by Bob Muller for our members consideration
Penetrating Oils
Recently “Machinist Workshop Magazine” did a test on penetrating oils. Using nuts and
bolts that they ‘scientifically rusted’ to a uniform degree by soaking in salt water, they then
tested the break-out torque required to loosen the nuts. They treated the nuts with a variety
of penetrants and measured the torque required to loosen them.
This is what they came up with:
Nothing: 516 lbs
WD-40: 238 lbs;
PB Blaster: 214 lbs;
Liquid Wrench: 127 lbs,
Kano Kroil: 106 lbs
(ATF)/Acetone mix (50/50): 50 lbs.

This last “shop brew” of 50% automatic transmission fluid and 50% acetone appears to beat
out the commercially prepared products costing far more.

Yep, the 50/50 ATF/Acetone solution has worked great for me when nothing else would.

Wow. Interesting results. I've almost always used the Lickin' Wench but now I have a use for the 6 or 7 quarts of ATF in the garage...left behind by my daughter's girlfriend whose Taurus bled the stuff

At about 11 bucks a gallon for Acetone, that oughta hold me for a while...

i had the exhaust bolt back out when I removed the heat exchangers.

I placed it in a sealed container for the last two mths completely submerged

in pb blaster. took it out yesterday and no budge.. still had to use heat,

which worked.

What car guy forum was this? Did the X19 club finally catch up?

FWIW, this info was also posted on THIS car guy forum long ago.

Good news for most of us, just mix PB Blaster and heat. Pick up a mapp gas torch at home depot for the heat. You don't need complex formulations. Technique is more important. Let it penetrate. Heat cycle. Done. If it's really that stubborn, repeat cycle. And do we really have to explain that you don't just twist one direction? Break it and work it back and forth before forcing it!! Never just one direction before it works free.

If the bolt doesn't matter, break it. My dad taught me that one right fast... He gave me the chore of getting a bolt apart on an old tractor. I was in jr high. I worked on it for half an hour, then told him it ain't coming loose. He came out with a long wrench and twisted clockwise to break it off in one second. Learned a lesson quick like on that one.

But if you have to get one loose, heat is way faster than magic fluids. But PB Blaster with heat is fine, you don't need to be a chemist.

I've been using Kroil for sometime. Spray can with a little red nozzle is a big plus. How do you get the ATF/acetone mix in a tight spot that you can barely get a socket on?

^^^ Along those same lines... why is no one selling ATF/acetone mixture commercially?

A chance for us to formulate some, package it, and all make a fortune?

Maybe call it WD-914?

material safety data sheet. there's prob a good reason for the mixture not being sold commercially.

Hmmm... neither acetone nor ATF are particularly hazardous. I can't see any reason why that mixture couldn't be sold. There are tons of companies that can blend it and package it, and even generate an MSDS.

I'm smelling some entrepreneurial opportunity here.

I've used Kroil for years. Found out about it from a mechanic. WD-40 nor PB Blaster don't come close. Unfortunately, Kroil is not marketed through retail outlets like ACE Hardware or NAPA.

You can order the line of Kroil products directly from Kano Labs, the originator of Kroil. Get to Kano via the internet.

Is it a mixture that would remain stable for long enough periods to be packaged and sold, out would it go bad somehow?

They should have tried melted paraffin, too.. That along with the acetone/ ATF is what I've always used. Three years ago I started working on freeing up the impellers of a very old hydro electric power plant, and nothing would work except the ATF/ Acetone trick.

After 3 months we got it back up and running again.

I think that acetone evaporates quite quickly, so that may be the issue in not having it commercially available. However, it probably helps carry the transmission fluid into the needed area to loosen the fastener.

Kroil has been on my workbench for years and seems to be stable over time, so it's easy enough to continue using it. If it doesn't work, i'll definitely try the acetone/ATF mixture!

No reason at all that it shouldn't be stable. As stated above, it's likely that the acetone serves as a solvent carrier to get the ATF into crevices.

A spray can with a thin tube like WD-40's should work fine.

So, shall we crowd-source this?

Here's even a link to the formula:

https://www.engineeringforchange.org/news/2...rating_oil.html

More info:
http://machinistchest.blogspot.com/2014/01...enetrating.html