So, I start the process of replacing my fuel pump today (which has been relocated up front by PO). So I got the tank out and it was starting to look pretty "rusty". So I figured I woul attempt to strip it down and repaint it. I have gotten most of the paint stripped off, but how am i going to get some/all of this surface rust off?

Any good radiator shops in San Ramon area I could drop it off to have someone finish it for me this week? Note: the inside of the tank looks very good....as if someone re-did the tank sometime ago.

Inside the tank.

Tank stripped (as far as I could get today). Looking closely, it has lots of surface rust that I need/want to get off. Just want to know the best/easiest way....including a local shop near San Ramon that I could drop it off at.

You need to find a powder coating shop. They can blast it and coat it. Paint will only look good for a short while. I think you would have to go to Livermore to find one close.

There is a shop in hayward...can't recall the name...google it.

American platers??? or something like that. They paint, coat and plate.

Maas brothers in Livermore?

I'm thinking of just stopping by an auto body shop to see if I can have them sand blast and paint it. All depends on the $$$ i suppose.

You mentioned that the PO had possibly redid the tank. I had a tank where the inside was cleaned and sealed. The heat from the powder coating process set off some kind of chemical reaction. When I opened up the tank the fumes were absolutely atrocious. It became very hard to breath and it took hours before the symptoms subsided.

Please be very careful

The tank looked awesome but the insides were charred black
David

Electro-Plating Specialties Incorporated

2436 American Avenue, Hayward
Phone : 510 786 1881
www.eps-plating.com

Most powder coating shops have a blaster...

Being the CSOB 914 owner that I am, I was able to get my gas tank repainted today. For the light surface rust I was seeing on the tank after the stripping, I used Evaporust (from your FLAPS nearby). Actually worked very well.

Anyway, two rattle cans later and it looks good to me in gloss black. The inside of the tank is fine. No rust on the outside of the tank, and it has a fresh coat to protect it.

Now I just need to get it back together.

A question about the "fuel sock". So I pretty much destroyed my sock (which was in bad shape anyways). I've got an order to put together for some 30R9, 9.5 to 8mm adapters and fuel sock

However, I can't seem to get that nut off of the 9.5mm supply pipe. Yes, i have removed it from the tank itself, but is it also supposed to come apart??? The return line pipe that goes into the tank came apart no problem after I removed it from the tank.

Soak it with PB Blaster or something similar. That did the trick for mine. You'll need new washers for that. Test for leaks before you put everything fully back together! I had leaks and gave up on the old supply lines - went with AN fittings.

OK, I'm soaking it in WD40 for now. I have some brake cleaner too if that'll help. I'll have to run to the store from some PB Blaster.

Well, after my CSOB attempt to repaint my tank and get it installed, I am back at square one. Due to my "job" (I hate those things), I only get a chance to work on my car on the weekends.

1. Took out tank, repainted it.
2. Wait a week
3. Installed tank. Car ran, but would not shut off by turning off key. Had to pull coil wire. Degraded later in the day to a "no start". Felt the fuel lines were crimped up front due to loud pump noise.
4. Wait a week
5. Wait another week (stupid job)
6. Installed tank again (looked inside and there is rust forming everywhere. ) Proceeded anyways, but car won't start (definitely not a fuel issue anymore as lines are great and not crimped.)

Issues now:

1. Rust in tank. Going to have to send it off to be boiled, blasted and powdercoated I guess. Sucks cuz the tank was 99.999999999999% perfect inside.
2. Supply line leaks at the tank. Too many do's and undo's of the crush washer. And finding those washers alone is a needle in a haystack according to my searches. Can anyone advise where i can find them (without having to buy a whole new sock also?
3. And the car still won't start. Probably blew my pertronix pulling the coil wire.

I'm going to to just leave the car on jackstands now and work on everything else including a master cylinder replacement (and other brake related do-it-while-your-in-there tasks), fix leaky trans at axle joints and speedo gear, cleanup rust spots as much as I can (rear firewall where the engine side pad was, front trunk channels, front trunk floor spots and couple spots in the cowls).

The car is a driver and I had no intention of stripping her do wn to nothing for another 3-5 years. At this point she's a sitter rather than a driver at all.

I believe that both rotary and racer Chris have fuel socks and crush washers

David

I bought a bunch of extra crush washers from rotary 914. They are about $1 a pair. I just cleaned up a tank inside with evaporust.

Bruce

buy a gallon or 2 of apple cider vinegar. pour in tank. Slosh around for a day or 2. drain. Rust should be gone. Either hook up tank and immediately fill tank with gas or slosh a can of marvel mystery oil into tank and pour out excess before you reinstall tank.

Light surface rust might only need an hour or 2 of the vinegar wash to get rid of rust inside of tank.

I've been in about the same spot for a couple weeks. I thought my return tube was leaking. Its been sitting with a good application of Teflon thread sealant for a couple weeks. Installed it yesterday and got a big drip of gas in my eye ......Dandy

After closer inspection ............. pin hole in tank
Click to view attachment

So I Googled fuel tank repair. Lots on cleaning with apple cider vinegar. Lots on don't use JB weld. I'm going to try the Permatex epoxy stuff for a short term fix. Pulled out my other 73 tank, too rusty. It's been out of the car eight years.

Vinegar is cheap, works great and no noxious fumes or hazmats. If your not satisfied with your tanks paint job, I would take it to a body shop for a coat of epoxy.

I have a couple of good clan late tanks. Hear are some pics of one of them if either of you are interested.

Bruce, thanks for the message. I'm going to try some Evapo-Rust (have about a 1/2 bottle left) on the inside of my tank next weekend. See how that works.

Does anyone know if that Evapo-Rust will damage the inside coating at all? If so, I may just try the vinegar instead (and hey, that's cheaper).

If its rusting, then there's probably no coating inside the tank. stock is just bare steel. That's why it's important to keep fresh gas in the tank or some mmo if your leaving it empty.

I have used vinegar but have more of a problem with flash rust if you can't get it dried quickly.
Bruce

Tell me more about the epoxy coat? Is that just an epoxy primer and I would also need to have the body shop paint a coat over that?

I might go the route of por-15 tank sealer also. But is that done before or after a paint job? If after, how do you keep the tank from flash rusting again?

Another Google item.
As soon as you finish cleaning the tank with vinegar. Mix up a combo of Marvel Mystery Oil and gasoline slosh it around to coat the tank.