Hi everybody!

I’m rebuilding my front suspension and already did most of my research here on the forum.

Just wanted to double check with the forum before I buy the wrong parts and powder-coating.

Up front, some car/driver information: ’75 2.0 (upgraded to 2056), weekend driver MAYBE some AX/track (only for fun).

What I have done so far:

- small hell-hole repair and a 2x4” floor patch, rest of the body is rust free - yeah I know, urban legend
- Tangerine heim rods welded in and trail-arm bushings installed.
- Rear coil over Bilsteins setup with Eibach 125lbs
- Original rear and front sway bar (new bushings)
- Inspected front shock tower rubber. Looks excellent w/o cracks, almost like new.

What I’m planning to do and some questions:

- Powder coat front suspension HW

- Install new ball joint and turbo tie rods

- Install new calipers, pads and lines (steel and rubber)

- Rebel racing front bushings

- Upgrade std./old Boge inserts to Bilstein.

Should I go for the HD or Sport type? What’s the difference?
Does it make any sense to “upgrade” the torsion bars also, in order to match the rear 125lbs springs?

- Run ATS wheels (7x15 ET30) with 195 tires (I don’t want to roll the fenders).
Any tire (summer only) recommendations?

- Bump steer kit
If I install the washer/longer screw kit (between cross bar and rack) will/can it have a negative impact if don’t go low “enough”?

- Align front and rear wheels.

Thanks for your inputs!
Dragan

PS: I looked high and low on bilsteinus.com to find out if my rear shock (1610 B46 0179 H1 Type 20) is a HD or Sport version. Can somebody confirm the type? I thinks it’s HD but not sure.

PPS: Keep a eye open for my suspension WTB post or PM if you have any front suspension parts. Thanks!

where in central nj? I grew up in Moorestown.

Where are my suspension gurus?

- Powder coat front suspension HW

I would be careful here. We used to powdercoat a lot of suspension components. Done properly it's a great finish. The issues can be with the brake line clips and the ends in the soft lines. Powder has a much thicker build up and you may find yourself scraping it away just to get a hose in or a line clip on. If you have a good relationship with your powdercoater, explain these areas and ask them to go "lite" on those area. We like to use Semi-gloss automotive paint these days. Same as the factory.

- Install new ball joint and turbo tie rods

Good

- Install new calipers, pads and lines (steel and rubber)

Good

- Rebel racing front bushings

Good

- Upgrade std./old Boge inserts to Bilstein.

Good

Should I go for the HD or Sport type? What’s the difference?
Does it make any sense to “upgrade” the torsion bars also, in order to match the rear 125lbs springs?

Bilstein is on record stating they are doing away with the HD and Sport designations. Sport, for Bilstein, supposedly has sorter shafts. With no rubber bump stops to cut on a Bilstein, I would go Sport.

- Run ATS wheels (7x15 ET30) with 195 tires (I don’t want to roll the fenders).
Any tire (summer only) recommendations?

Tire recommendations are like beer recommendations. Many different tastes. Many different varieties to choose from. That said, the sidewall with make a big difference regarding if you need to roll or not roll. I would guess you may need to roll a little if the tires are anywhere near the stock diameter.

- Bump steer kit
If I install the washer/longer screw kit (between cross bar and rack) will/can it have a negative impact if don’t go low “enough”?

Yeah... geometry issues either way. I would lower the car exactly where you want it and have a peek at the tie rods. You'll want them parallel to the ground. If you didn't lower it too much you might be OK. Drive it and see what you think. Use the kit or, enough distance washers and longer fasteners to bring the tie rods to parallel orientation and you should be perfect. I like low teeners. That more than anything makes them look a tad bit meaner.

- Align front and rear wheels.

Lower the car first to your desired ride height. I like to measure the fender lips through the center of the wheels. Your front measurement should be 1/4" higher than the rear as the opening is larger. This will give you a slight nose down rake. Make all changes with you or your weight in the car. IMPORTANT -- After any change in ride height, bounce the fender and roll the wheels at least one full rotation to re-settle the suspension. If your car has never been hit, most Porsches I've seen will corner balance (fall within) factory spec. just by setting the ride height properly.

Now align. Find and download Ray Scruggs string align guide and flail away at it. For what you described, I would set as follows:

Front Camber = -1
Rear Camber = -.5 to -1
Caster = Middle
Front Toe = 0
Rear Toe = 0 to -1/8"

Should be a sweet ride.

Thanks a lot for the phone training and the summary!