My recently rebuilt 2.0 engine is experiencing a hard starting issue. It takes 6 to 7 cycles of cranking before the engine will start. The issue is experienced on both a cold or hot start. I will insert the key, and crank the engine for about 5-10 seconds, without the engine starting. Cycle the key to the off position and then repeat the cranking cycle. After 6 or 7 such cycles, the engine will fire off and then runs nicely Idle and acceleration are fine. If I then shut the engine off after it gets to temperature and then attempt to restart the car, I get the same issue - 6 to 7 cranking cycles before the engine fires off.

The engine has new ignition parts including wires, plugs, and distributor points.

Prior to every start, I will switch on the key to listen for the fuel pump. It is always humming.

The injection is fully stock for the motor.

Does anyone have ideas on how to troubleshoot this issue?

If the fuel pump is always humming or running that's not good. When you turn the key the pump will fire up for about 2 or 3 seconds then you hear nothing. If your pump is always humming something is wrong.

Ok so the obvious things to check, timing, fuel pressure, valves, grounds, and condition of all ignition parts. If you are running points check dwell first. Mine had slipped at on point giving similar trouble.

Next verify cold start valve is not stuck open.

Strat said it right. Remove the air filter box then turn key to on position. From the engine bay, open throttle and look into plenum. Is it wet? Have you tried to start it with throttle held wide open?

Where's the fuel pump and its power source?

If it has been moved up front, but the power has been wired in from up front (ie. not from the original power in the rear coming off the relay board), then the pump will run continuously as long as switched power is on. If it is still wired from the power coming of the relay board then it should run for a couple seconds and then turn off when you turn the key.

I think the fact that your fuel pump is running is not the problem. Have you checked for a kinked fuel hose under the gas tank (also assuming the pump is now up front)?

First off, thanks to all for your replies. I am not at the car right now, but will check when I get home today. The car was originally a 76 model, so my understanding is that the pump is mounted forward near the tank, which makes sense. And, the pump noise I hear does appear to be coming from the front of the car.

I do have a question about Strat's comment about the pump needing to shut off. If the pump cycles off, then what triggers the pump to turn back on? Is there a pressure regulator in the system? Just trying to get educated.

The ignition was supposed to be all new. I know that the car has new injectors. But, the comment about point dwell could be a possibility. I'll throw a dwell meter on the distributor to find out what dwell is. I can understand new points slipping a little to affect dwell. I'll check that.

Question about the comment about a kinked fuel line. If I had a kinked fuel line, would not the engine have difficulty running? In my instance, once started, the engine runs well. No hesitation or missing or any indication of fuel starvation.

And, since I experience the hard starting both cold and hot, why would one suspect a malfunctioning cold start valve?

I did NOT attempt any of the starts with an open throttle, since the car is injected. I'll attempt that to see what happens.

Will report back later.

The pump runs for about half a second when you turn the key to "on" to prime the system. The ecu will turn the pump back on when it fires.

The cold start valve is energized by a temp sensor. If the sensor is inop, the valve can get stuck open or closed. If it's stuck open it dumps raw fuel into the plenum causing flooding. Check fuel pressure too. Too high of a pressure can cause injectors to leak. Leaky injectors cause flooding.

Bad ignition switch?