When I start tearing everything apart, would be a good time to rekey everything to fresh.
I don't know if I should even bother with the front trunk, or the glove compartment, although, I was thinking of welding in a 3 sided tray, if I wanted to put something in the front trunk, so might be of some value to do that.
I may need some tips on removal of ignition switch, front trunk, and glove compartment, as far as what to do to have it rekeyed.
I can do the doors, and rear lock.
Does anyone provide the service here on the club for rekeying?
Full Version: Rekeying locks
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Removing the front trunk lock:
There are two Allen-head bolts in the gas tank compartment (near the air diverter valves) that hold the handle up to the chassis. Remove them, drop the handle downward, and find the little set-screw. (It might be Allen-head as well? I forget!) Remove the set-screw and pull out the lock.
Removing the glove box lock:
Get behind the lock and remove the screw that holds the arm on the back of it. Then undo the large nut that holds the body of the lock to the back of the dash. Slide the lock assembly out. I think it may come apart on its own at that point? Rats, I forget now...
Re-keying is easy; pretty much the lock cylinders are the same--at least they work the same way. Remove the old pins, put new ones in, make sure they are flat to the body of the cylinder when your key is in the lock. That's it. (You can file the pins flat to the top of the cylinder if you can't re-shuffle yours and can't get extras. But that means more keys than just yours will work.)
--DD
There are two Allen-head bolts in the gas tank compartment (near the air diverter valves) that hold the handle up to the chassis. Remove them, drop the handle downward, and find the little set-screw. (It might be Allen-head as well? I forget!) Remove the set-screw and pull out the lock.
Removing the glove box lock:
Get behind the lock and remove the screw that holds the arm on the back of it. Then undo the large nut that holds the body of the lock to the back of the dash. Slide the lock assembly out. I think it may come apart on its own at that point? Rats, I forget now...
Re-keying is easy; pretty much the lock cylinders are the same--at least they work the same way. Remove the old pins, put new ones in, make sure they are flat to the body of the cylinder when your key is in the lock. That's it. (You can file the pins flat to the top of the cylinder if you can't re-shuffle yours and can't get extras. But that means more keys than just yours will work.)
--DD
I think I have a few extra keys left over from my 96 jetta deal. I wonder if those might be the same style?
If I recall correctly, the last time I had a key made, the retired guy still had his equipment at home, and was able to make one, but has sold it since. I couldn't find anyone in town here to do it. Must be something about it that is different. I know the passenger side sometimes does not catch, unless it is something besides the key?
What about the ignition lock?
If I recall correctly, the last time I had a key made, the retired guy still had his equipment at home, and was able to make one, but has sold it since. I couldn't find anyone in town here to do it. Must be something about it that is different. I know the passenger side sometimes does not catch, unless it is something besides the key?
What about the ignition lock?
QUOTE(partwerks @ Sep 13 2014, 11:09 AM) 
I think I have a few extra keys left over from my 96 jetta deal. I wonder if those might be the same style?
If I recall correctly, the last time I had a key made, the retired guy still had his equipment at home, and was able to make one, but has sold it since. I couldn't find anyone in town here to do it. Must be something about it that is different. I know the passenger side sometimes does not catch, unless it is something besides the key?
What about the ignition lock?
What year is the car. At least three different ignition switches that are used. .
1975
So the only thing holding the front trunk lock tumbler is a set screw???
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