What would be the best combo to use on the floor pans, once the floor tar is off? I have solid pans, so only anticipating surface rust.

http://www.amazon.com/POR-15-45008-Gloss-b...#productDetails


For the center tunnel, or can/should the tunnel be taken off to remove the rust?
http://detaildoctor.com/internal-frame-coa...-wspray-nozzle/

I've never used POR15 tbh…read about it and it looks like a lot of steps and procedures..it also seems to have mixed reviews. I have great results with simple 2-part epoxy primer. The stuff is bomb proof and non-porous.

Not sure what the best way to treat 'hard to reach' surface rust in the centre-tunnel or Longs is. For the tub I'm restoring I'm probably just going to use a rust encapsulator, then either epoxy prime and/or cavity wax it.

for the center tunnel I used a shop vac at one end and air hose at the other end.

then I used a rust converter as all that was present was surface rust.

I used the air hose to move the rust converter "picklex" inside the tunnel.

then after drying, I used zero rust and also used the air hose to move it too.

a respirator is recommended with zero rust.

It is holding up well with my restoration. I used it as directed on the pans, trunks, and on the front and rear of the car behind the bumper area.

I scuffed with Scotchbrite and primed over with high build sealer. Then painted.

I feel is is very durable.

John

the key to por15 is its supposed to be applied directly over any rust its intended as a rust converter, it has very little uv protection so it breaks down in sunlight and must be top coated with another paint or in your case carpet. its a good product if used as intended. you do not want to apply it to clean metal or it will just peel off as it needs the rust to bond it if you have clean bare metal you would want to epoxy the area and use something else as a topcoat

I've had good luck with Loctite "Extend" #75430
Bottle says:
Destroys rust
Seals & protects metal
Dries to a tough protective primer coating.
Surface rust turns dull black & dries very quickly
1quart bottle lasts forever good stuff

Doesn't work. Tried it several times ...

Until the tar is off, I guess I won't ultimately know, but don't anticipate any rust, although, I know there is surface rust in the tunnel, and was wondering if it is possible to remove the tunnel to give it a good cleaning, unless it is a real mother to remove?

If it ends up that I don't have much rust in the pans, what would be the best product to use for that approach?

I think I just have surface rust under the pedal assembly also.

It's not a rust converter. It's an encapsulator.
Application instructions call for getting rid of as much rust as possible, then using their Metal Ready product, which is a rust converter/etcher/primer and then applying the Por15 as the last stage. I don't think there are any products that if simply applied over rust will hold up over time.

I used the product as instructed on my interior floor pans and 7 years later it looks just like it did in the day I applied it. I have heard people say it won't hold up well to sunlight but I used it in my rocker covers too and haven't had any issues. I have a black car so the black Por15 worked great and didn't require me to paint over it.

I've used it on four applications (two floor pans, two gas tanks). I've had mixed success. I think if you use it for the right application and follow the directions closely (get rid of most rust, clean, Metal Prep, etc.) it can be pretty solid stuff. My applications are only a year or two old, but I certainly hope they last.

Make sure you use it in a well ventilated place and/or use a good air respirator.

Just to give more detail on my experience:

1. Used a POR 15 floor pan repair kit several years ago on a different car (not a teener). I guess it worked well and did what the product said it would, but now that I can weld (at least a little), using fiberglass patching seems like such a hack. It did fine where there was still solid metal.

2. Used it on my teener's fuel tank that had been sitting for over 10 years with fuel turning to tar (or back into dinosaur) and I thought it turned out great.
Fuel tank before:
Click to view attachment

After:
Click to view attachment

3. Used it to redo my teener's floor pan, and this turned out better than the first try because by this time I fully cut badly rusted areas away and welded in patches. Again, I'm still learning to weld, but I believe the repair is solid, if not pretty. I did a pretty thorough job cleaning everything up and prepping:
After (don't have a good before pic):
Click to view attachment

4. Used it on my second teener's fuel tank similar to the first time, and it did not turn out as well. I think I must have rushed the prep job (the cleaning and metal prep) as the POR15 coating didn't seem to stick as well. That's another lesson: when using it, really plan your day around it, as you don't want to rush the process.

Again, when used correctly with thorough preparation I think it works well. Don't use it to replace metal or "convert rust" but to prevent additional corrosion on otherwise structurally sound metal.

As for the tunnel, that's a tough one. I've read threads here about how to get in there, and unless you cut into it from above or through floor pans I think you're stuck trying one of those creative solutions (like mentioned above) that will help but may not fully treat/encapsulate everything. I may look into that Eastwood solution that was mentioned here a couple of days ago, as my tunnel also has the surface inside that annoys me