What do I need to do to remove the rear hubs? Do I need to remove the trailing arms first and then get to the hub and bearing form the backside? Any help would be appreciated, pictures too if possible.

no, you do not need to remove the trailing arms....just remove the axles and you can access the hubs from the backside of the trailing arm
.........get a haynes manual

How 'bout getting the parts from a place that gives tech advice???

Sorry, just had to....

Take the wheel off and remove the cotterpin in the stub axle.

Take the hubcap off the wheel and put it back on the car, set the parking brake, and put the car in gear.

Put the socket through the hole in the center of the wheel and with much force (I use a 3/4" drive socket & breaker bar with a 8' cheater pipe) unbolt the castelated nuts from the stub axles. Have someone step on the brake pedal, if need be.

Remove the wheels, the rear calipers, and the rear rotors.

Unbolt the CVs at the transmisson and pull them away from the drive flanges, do not damage the mating surfaces of the drive flanges or CVs.

Using a brass drift and a large hammer drive the halfshafts inboard and out of the hub.

Unbolt the four screws behind the hubs, that fasten the bearing retainer to the trailing arm.

Drive the hub outward with the brass drift, in a circular manner so you don't get the hub cocked in the process.

You may need the cup style bearing puller to pull the bearings, but you may be able to drive the bearing out in the same manner as the hub. (if you purchase your parts from some places they will rent a bearing puller tool)

You will probably ruin the bearing in the process. This is normal and you should replace the bearing at this point anyway.

And our most famous/favorite lines from the venerable Haynes manual "INSTALLATION IS REVERSE OF DISSASEMBLY"

Double check all torque specs and make sure you've got everything put back together right.

Always use new CV gaskets.

I clean the threads (male and female) of the CV bolts before I put them back on. You can use a scant drop of locktite, but don't overdue it!!

If you don't know how old your brake fluid is, run new fluid through the system.

And remember, the cheapest parts usually come with the lowest level of customer support and technical advice.

Thanks for the help guys!

Re install.....put bearing in freezer over night along with hub.....they will shrink and make the install easier......

QUOTE (9146986 @ Jan 27 2005, 06:00 PM)

How 'bout getting the parts from a place that gives tech advice??? Sorry, just had to.... Take the wheel off and remove the cotterpin in the stub axle. Take the hubcap off the wheel and put it back on the car, set the parking brake, and put the car in gear. Put the socket through the hole in the center of the wheel and with much force (I use a 3/4" drive socket & breaker bar with a 8' cheater pipe) unbolt the castelated nuts from the stub axles. Have someone step on the brake pedal, if need be. Remove the wheels, the rear calipers, and the rear rotors. Unbolt the CVs at the transmisson and pull them away from the drive flanges, do not damage the mating surfaces of the drive flanges or CVs. Using a brass drift and a large hammer drive the halfshafts inboard and out of the hub. Unbolt the four screws behind the hubs, that fasten the bearing retainer to the trailing arm. Drive the hub outward with the brass drift, in a circular manner so you don't get the hub cocked in the process. You may need the cup style bearing puller to pull the bearings, but you may be able to drive the bearing out in the same manner as the hub. (if you purchase your parts from some places they will rent a bearing puller tool) You will probably ruin the bearing in the process. This is normal and you should replace the bearing at this point anyway. And our most famous/favorite lines from the venerable Haynes manual "INSTALLATION IS REVERSE OF DISSASEMBLY" Double check all torque specs and make sure you've got everything put back together right. Always use new CV gaskets. I clean the threads (male and female) of the CV bolts before I put them back on. You can use a scant drop of locktite, but don't overdue it!! If you don't know how old your brake fluid is, run new fluid through the system. And remember, the cheapest parts usually come with the lowest level of customer support and technical advice.

Dude,
Put a link in your signature to your web site and parts page...

I have never heard of your place...I might buy something there...

Rich

Come on Perry. I've known about your umbrella covers forever but never had a 914 worthy of being covered. I'm just recently (since you started posting here) getting a glimmer of an idea of what you have to offer. There's no reason not to put a link or more details in your sig. You're the kind of guy I'll pay extra for stuff with no complaints. But then I'm not as cheap as half these whack jobs around here.

Not to hijack the thread too bad. I wasn't just talking about getting stuff from me.

I wish I had the time and ability to do a website.

I forgot about the freezer trick (I've had the bearing puller/installer tool for several years though) it does work. Make sure you coat the bearing with oil or grease before your freeze it.

They're a PITA to get out with them on the car... I guess I'm just spoiled.

Perry... damn it, you forgot to tell him what size 3/4 drive socket he'll have to buy! Talk about a low level of support...

QUOTE

But then I'm not as cheap as half these whack jobs around here.

Yesssssssssss you are...

I made a tee that screws into my big-ass slide hammer. It has two holes in it and bolts to the hub. a couple of quick yanks and it's out. I've done 4 hubs with it and haven't destroyed any bearings. (not to the point of the inner race coming out with the hub anyways)