When it was time to replace a defective hood release cable in my 914, I was unsuccessful at doing a search to find the procedure to do the work. As a consequence, I struggled with quite a few missteps before I was able to complete the replacement of the cable (with a lot of help from my 914World friends). So, here is a DIY for this item, with some comments on the issues that you can run into.

REPLACEMENT OF FRONT TRUNK RELEASE CABLE

Though you can replace the cable by itself, it is advised that you replace both the cable and the sheathe in which it is installed. Total install time should be 1-2 hours.

1. Though the cable can be installed with the latch assembly attached to the front bulkhead, it is easier if you remove the latch assembly. Mark its alignment with a Sharpie before removing so that you can put it back exactly as it was.
2. Remove the (3) socket head cap screws that attach the latch assembly to the bulkhead.
3. Straighten the pull wire which you will find bent at its clamp.
4. Loosen the two screws to separate the latch assembly from the wire pull and the clamp that holds the cable sheathe in place.
5. While the latch assembly is out of the car, carefully clean and inspect it for damage and affect repairs as appropriate. Confirm that the (2) springs installed on the latch are in good condition. Apply grease to the moving parts of the latch. Set aside.
6. Locate and carefully open the (4) hold downs for the cable sheathe. There is one hold down on the front bulkhead and (3) spaced over the wheel well. They should be bent just enough to free the cable assembly. Pull the cable assembly out of the car.
7. With the cable assembly free, you can slip it out of the ferrule (located at the firewall) and slide the cable sheathe off the pull wire.
8. To remove the pull wire, the locking handle located below the dashboard must be removed from the car. The handle is held in place with a small bracket that is attached to the firewall under the dashboard. There are two 5 mm socket head cap screws that secure the bracket under the dash. Please note that these two cap screws are accessed from the trunk. They are located behind the brake fluid reservoir. If there is any light corrosion on these screws, spray them with penetrating oil for several hours to make their removal easy. Remove the (2) cap screws. The locking pull handle will now drop down below the dash.
9. From inside the car, slide the handle and the attached pull wire through the firewall ferrule out of the car.
10. Remove the single slotted stop screw that locks the handle into its bracket. Slide the bracket off the pull wire.
11. Using pliers, unscrew the pull wire from the pull handle. Install the new pull wire in a reverse fashion. Slide the bracket over the new pull wire and install the lock screw into the pull handle which locks the bracket in place. Please note that the screw allows the pull handle to slide within its bracket freely.
12. Reinstall the new pull wire and handle assembly. Simply feed the wire through the firewall via the ferrule installed. Push the pull cable all the way through the firewall until the bracket that holds the pull handle aligns with the two holes in the firewall.
13. Standing outside of the car, at the front of the door (and with the door opened fully), you can reach into the car with your right hand to position and hold the bracket in place while installing the first screw inside the trunk (behind the brake fluid reservoir). There is enough room to do this, even though you may be operating a little blindly, not being able to view the installation of the cap screws. Take your time.....it's easier than it sounds! Snug both screws up with your fingers and use an allen wrench to tighten them lightly. No need to really torque these screws down very tight. They are lightly loaded and really not subject to vibration. Over tighten them, and they will be really tough to break loose the next time you replace the pull wite!
14. With the pull wire extended out into the trunk area, slide on the new cable sheathe and be certain that it is fully seated in the firewall ferrule. Before installing the new sheathe, spray some light grease (such as lithium) into the new sheathe. Ideally, you should fill the sheathe over about 3/4 of its length. Wipe off an excess grease.
15. Route the cable assembly along the same route from which it was removed. Do not bend down the retention tabs at this time. Feed the cable down the front side of the wheel well. If you are lucky, you should be able to move the cable around and get it to go through the side wall in the hole installed at the point where the front bulkhead meets the sidewall. You are aiming for the hole at the very bottom. If this proves difficult, you will find it easier to take a two foot length of bendable wire and back feed the wire from the trunk through the hole in the sidewall and up along the wheel well. Stuff this wire into the cable assembly and tape the wire in place with some masking tape. then push the cable sheathe while guiding the wire back out of the sidewall hole. Once the cable is through the sidewall and is daylighting into the trunk, you can remove the guide wire and tape. You have now done the toughest part of this job!
16. Install the cable assembly into the latch assembly. To do this, slide the cable assembly into the pull wire clamp. Position the sheathe of the cable into its retaining clamp on the latch as you install the pull wire in its clamp. Do not tighten the sheathe clamp until the pull wire is threaded through its clamp.
17. Before locking down the pull wire and the sheathe, make certain that the sheathe is fully pushed into place at the firewall, and that the pull handle under the dash is seated fully forward into its attachment bracket. Though each latch assembly is slightly different, you should have approximately one inch of pull wire protruding through the clamp. This should result in the sheathe protruding approximately a half inch through its clamp. At this time, tighten first the clamp that holds the sheathe in place. Then use pliers to pull the pull wire firmly through its clamp before tightening the clamp screw tightly.
18. Make certain that the cable assembly is positioned under the (4) cable retaining hold downs and then re-attach the latch assembly to the bulkhead with the three cap screws removed earlier. Once installed, but before tightening the screws align the latch using the Sharpie marks you made for that purpose earlier. Once the latch is in its original position, tighten all three cap screws. Then bend over the (4) retaining clips along the front bulkhead and on the wheel well.
19. IMPORTANT! Test the latching system BEFORE you close the trunk lid. You do this by getting the latch to lock down with the trunk lid remaining open. Do this by pressing with a finger on the pivot latch until it snaps down with the assistance of one of the springs in the latch assembly. This is a dramatic and audible snap. Observe that the latch is in the locked position. Then go to the cockpit and pull the trunk handle. If the latch does not snap open, you will need to re-adjust the pull wire so that more of the wire passes through the wire clamp. I found it easier to do this by unbolting the latch assembly from the bulkhead.
20. Once you are satisfied that the latch can be opened from inside the cockpit, make certain that the wire clamp screw is screwed down tightly and that the clamp holding the cable in place on the latch is also screwed down tightly. Lastly, when satisfied, using pliers, bend over the pull wire that protrudes through its clamp. Ideally, the wire should be bent back on itself. This provides extra assurance against the pull wire slipping out of its clamp.
21. Close the trunk lid and latch it in place. If you encounter any difficulty, some re-alignment of the latch assembly may be required.
22. In the event that the hood is latched, and some malfunction occurs preventing the trunk hood from operating, you can gain access to the locking mechanism by removing the front bumper from the car. This is relatively easy. The bumper is attached with two 13mm bolts on each side. These bolts are located in each wheel well. You'll find it easier to access them by turning the tires left or right with the steering wheel. Once the bumper has been removed, a flat bladed screw driver can be inserted through the hole accessing the latch. Use the screwdriver to pry against the latch and it will pop open. Don't ask me how I know this! Like I said, Murphey's Law was in full force when I did this job the first time.

Very good thread to add to classics and ke. Thanks.

Great and Thanks as I have one that I need to install. Im sure this well be a great help!

Remember to lube the cable and latch for the engine lid. It's very easy to drip some oil down the cable and into the housing without ever removing the cable.

So, yes, I know this is an old thread but I just wanted to say Thank You for this and all the contributions like it.

Super helpful for newbies like me.

The unique thing about the design of the 914, is that many items are really easy to service if you know the "tricks" involved. Most of the time, you will not find any instructions pointing out these items. For the cable replacement I chronicled, I had to find out from a 914W regular that the pull handle under the dashboard is held by two easily reached screws that were "hidden" behind the brake cylinder reservoir in the trunk. And, the screws are arranged so the you can hold the pull handle in place under the dash while at the same time installing the screws in the trunk. Simple engineering but someone spent a lot of time coming up with a simple procedure.

Thanks; I’m doing this next week. Just ordered a new cable and sheath

Thanks so much for that! One step closer to the paint shop!

Also if you re plate the pull assembly (inside the trunk for the latch) MAKE SURE TO LUBE IT
Mine had so much friction that I almost broke the cable.

I know this is a really old thread, but I thought it was helpful and a good one to update.

Instead of trying to remove the bracket for the handle under the dash, I removed the pan head screw and was able to just remove the handle with the cable attached. After replacing the sheath, it took a minute to carefully get the cable started into it. Other than that I followed these directions.