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ripper911
OK, well, my accelerator has been sticking lately. I did some snooping around and found that there is a metal tube which has found it's way next to the cable connection in the tunnel by the pedal. I assume that it is the unused fuel return line, since I did manage to push it through the bulkhead when relocating the fuel pump under the tank.

My question is, how much of a pain is it to pull out through the back? Or if I need to, how would I put it back up where it goes?

I vaguely remember trying to thread a wire for the fuel pump through it, but I think we ended up just hooking it up to a switched fuse after I pushed the fuel line through. So it should be fine to remove, but I should check to make sure that I didn't actually run a wire through it. If I did I'll have to put it back into it's normal spot or disconnect the wire first.

I'm not planning on taking the engine out. I'm guessing that it is the metal end of the line that I'm seeing, and the rest is plastic. if i can get it most of the way out i should be fine, even if it breaks off in the tunnel.

Is there amy other tube which could be the culprit? It certainly looks like a metal fuel line, although it's a little bigger than i remember it being.
ripper911
I think I just talked my way through it while typing that out... biggrin.gif

I guess the only question is if there is something besides a fuel line that could have gotten in that spot. I can't think of anything else it could be.
ndfrigi
I believed that is the clutch tube beside the accelerator cable tube on the left side of the tunnel.
ripper911
wacko.gif
JmuRiz
Get in there and look it over. I once learned my accel cable was wound around my brake lines...my mechanic was taking my car for a test drive and lost all brakes when the cable finally wore through the brake lines.
Bob L.
Make sure the clutch tube is still solidly attached inside the tunnel. If you detached the clutch or accelerator cables during your fuel pump relocation you may have got them wrapped around each other upon re-installation.
JawjaPorsche
This may not be your problem but my cable (See A in picture at bottom) was bending too sharp which I think was causing cable to bind.

I split about four inches of fuel line and placed over the cable and tighten with snug ties. (2 inches over the metal shelve and 2 inches over the rubber housing)

It solved my problem! biggrin.gif

The top picture reflects putting the fuel line over the cable with ties. (See B in picture)
Hank914
I agree with the clutch cable analysis. I had replaced the shift linkage in the tunnel and that action moved the clutch cable onto the throttle cable, revving the engine every time the clutch pedal was depressed. Look through the front tunnel access panel and you should see the problem and be able to fix it from there.

Good luck.
ripper911
I know that was a long rambling post...

This is what I'm talking about

IPB Image.

IPB Image
pilothyer
In your first post you said:
"OK, well, my accelerator has been sticking lately. I did some snooping around and found that there is a metal tube which has found it's way next to the cable connection in the tunnel by the pedal. I assume that it is the unused fuel return line, since I did manage to push it through the bulkhead when relocating the fuel pump under the tank.

My question is, how much of a pain is it to pull out through the back? Or if I need to, how would I put it back up where it goes?

I am assuming you have carbs and no longer use the return fuel line, but have pushed it from under the tank and into the tunnel. If that is the case I would go to the rear where it exits the firewall and pull it all the way out........easy to do....then see if your sticky accelerator cable was hanging up on it.
JawjaPorsche
QUOTE(ripper911 @ Oct 14 2014, 02:10 PM) *

I know that was a long rambling post...

This is what I'm talking about

IPB Image.

IPB Image


Yep, looks like you have some rubbing there. It is not hard to pull the unused fuel line out the back if you are running carbs. They are held down by two tabs. Taking off the right rear wheel helps removing the line. Just reverse of the video below. You do NOT need to remove engine.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hxFRQTWLetw
Bob L.
That looks like a fuel line and it looks like it's interfering with the lever for the accelerator pedal/cable. Is it being used? It should be a bit to the right and pushed through the front firewall with the other fuel line. It looks abnormally bent. Maybe you could just bend it a bit out of the way.
bdstone914
And you are missing a screw that holds the brake light switch to the pedal housing. If the switch rotates you will have no brake lights, break the switch or both.

pilothyer
If you are removing the old plastic line and not installing a solid SS line in it's place wheel removal is not necessary..........unless you just need a little practice in wheel removal and replacement. ;>)
ripper911
Thank you. I'll pull the unused fuel line out tomorrow.

I figured that's what it was, I just wanted to be sure of what I'm doing before I start. beerchug.gif
ripper911
QUOTE(bdstone914 @ Oct 14 2014, 02:52 PM) *

And you are missing a screw that holds the brake light switch to the pedal housing. If the switch rotates you will have no brake lights, break the switch or both.


It's floating around down there somewhere... I keep hoping that if I take a curve fast enough it will find it's way back into the hole. dry.gif
Dave_Darling
QUOTE(bdstone914 @ Oct 14 2014, 11:52 AM) *
If the switch rotates you will have no brake lights, break the switch or both.


Actually, if nothing is pushing the lever on the switch, the brake lights will always be on. The switch "defaults" to the brake lights on position.

--DD
bdstone914
QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Oct 14 2014, 02:57 PM) *

QUOTE(bdstone914 @ Oct 14 2014, 11:52 AM) *
If the switch rotates you will have no brake lights, break the switch or both.


Actually, if nothing is pushing the lever on the switch, the brake lights will always be on. The switch "defaults" to the brake lights on position.

--DD


I guess I should know that having rebuilt a couple hundred pedal sets. headbang.gif

And in case the screw does not reinstall itself you can get them at a local hardware store. 4mm x .7 x 10mm. Had to buy a couple at Lowe's recently.
r_towle
QUOTE(ripper911 @ Oct 14 2014, 01:11 PM) *

I think I just talked my way through it while typing that out... biggrin.gif



I am so glad you trusted yourself and had a good talking to with yourself to get this solved.....

Rich
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