Hi everyone,
I have a 1973 2.0 that has an exhaust leak. I removed the shroud under the exhaust and could feel the leak somewhere around where the exhaust pipe seats against the cylinder head. The locking nuts used to attach the exhaust pipes were tight and seated so I thought the problem might be the copper gaskets.

While trying to remove the exhaust to inspect, I broke one of the exhaust studs. The locking nut was a thread or so from the end of the stud and the stud broke off leaving a couple threads protruding from the nut. In other words the stud broke near the end of the stud.

To get the stud out, I tried double nutting, but, there wasn't adequate threads to install two nuts.

So the $6 question, has anyone had this problem and how did you remove the stud?

Also does the factory put lock-tite on these studs?
Thanks in advance for the help.
Rick

You might try a metric jam nut. They're thinner. For double nutting.
If it was me, I'd first shoot some penetrating oil in there.
I'd get a big Vice Grip and try to work it out.

If that didn't work, I'd put a nut on the stud and weld it on. try to put the wrench back on.

If it broke off flush with the head I'd drill it out and Heli-Coil it.

That's what I'd try. Me...

KT

that sucks. i hate pulling the exhaust for just this reason -- i will ALWAYS go out of my way to avoid it. no matter what, i always seem to F-up one stud....


since it broke off very close to the head, double nutting will be impossible. not nearly enough room to weld. so, you are stuck drilling.

this isn't so bad, just be sure to go slow and straight in order not to mangle the head. i'd go with one fine hole about 1.5cm in, followed by a reverse-thread bit. this might be able to grab it at some point and pull it out -- hopefully thus preserving the threads.

if you mangle the threads, you can always tap for an oversized stud (i did this) or use a helicoil/timsert (i wish i'd have done this).

good luck, be sure to wear saftey glasses (ask me how i know)

n

QUOTE (trekkor @ Jan 30 2005, 01:24 PM)

I'd put a nut on the stud and weld it on.

Welding a nut on the stud will also warm things up a bit, which will also help removal. Be sure to use a anti-seize compound on the threads of the new stud so next time.....

Well I had to pull the heads because of this when the EZ out broke off in the stud..TWICE.. but.... Now I have one head off and one on with a alen wrench broke off in the capscrew and....... I would just sell the car if I was you

QUOTE (spare time toys @ Jan 30 2005, 05:39 PM)

Well I had to pull the heads because of this when the EZ out broke off in the stud..TWICE.. but.... Now I have one head off and one on with a alen wrench broke off in the capscrew and....... I would just sell the car if I was you

easy there fella--your woes pale in comparison to others out there ( me included ) it'll work out in the long run!

Thanks for the really great ideas and information. Larry D I especially like your style. I won't be able to get to this for a couple weeks, but, will let you know how I do.
Thanks again, at least for the hope!
Rick

Any good muffler shop can get a nut welded on there. Ive seen it done on my work truck at 270k miles. Chevy of corse. It was 1/8 in out of the manifold. The bigger nut laid around it and he mig welded it from the inside threads. The heat helps too. Have it towed there work done and back as cheap as $80. Good Luck I would drill as a last resort.

Just do what I did..........Decide it was time for a top end rebuild and have them sent off to a shop.

Had the exact thing happen. I removed the heat exchangers to give myself some room, and just used a stud remover set from Sears. They were the type that simply hammer onto the stud and then grab hold as you turn. The stud came right out and it was easy to replace.

Just another idea. Good luck.

NEMO

In the future always find a buddy with a torch and heat those nuts cherry red. They never break when heated.

Welding a nut on a T4 exhaust stud has never worked for me.