I'm going to mount my aux air valve back onto the plenumn bracket and was wondering if the body of the valve acts as a ground. I painted the plenumn so I'll need to sand off some paint if it does. Thanks.

Yes, the body is ground.


M

QUOTE (redshift @ Jan 30 2005, 03:56 PM)

Yes, the body is ground.

with Mr. M ...

the body of the AAR is the ground, so make sure there's some metal to metal action going on there.

also, none of this will work without a solid tranny-ground-strap-on ...
Andy

Yes, nothing like a tranny strap on...


M

Does somebody have a picture of the proper location for a tranny ground strap? I'm missing it on my 72 teener and think that it might fix some of my electrical problems.

there is one ground wire, but I forgot the originating location.

thanks,

The transmission ground strap goes from one of the top bolts in the tail housing cover up to a 8mmx125 stud welded to the bottom of the trunk. If the stud is missing, you can put the strap to the mount bolt for the motor mount. Not the big one, but the one that holds the mount onto the body.

Hope that helps

I believe that the 1.8 AAR has a ground pin in the two-pin connector on the part. The 1.7 and 2.0 versions do ground through their body.

--DD

Good to know


The air valve has got about a can and a half of PB blaster run through it and still isn't working right, maybe ground has been the problem all along...

What's the resistance from the electrical connector to the body of the AAR? (Or between the two pins of a 1.8 AAR.)

2.0 (and presumably 1.7) should be about 13 ohms. The 1.8 should be about 30 ohms. A reading of zero means the wire has shorted to the case, an infinite reading means the resistance wire (the heating element) has broken.

--DD

QUOTE (Dave_Darling @ Feb 2 2005, 02:08 PM)

What's the resistance from the electrical connector to the body of the AAR? (Or between the two pins of a 1.8 AAR.) --DD

75 2.0. 2.6 ohms

Sounds like the input wire or the resistance wire has shorted to the case. You might wanna pry the whole thing open and check...

--DD

QUOTE

Auxiliary Air Regulator, 914 1.7L/2.0 (1970-76), Each 022-906-045 No Longer Available

Guess I will have to...

QUOTE (Dave_Darling @ Feb 2 2005, 10:08 AM)

an infinite reading means the resistance wire (the heating element) has broken. --DD

Jeeez, that's mine. Checked it last night and from the lead to the body is infinity. I can't figure out why my car was running so well with a bad mps and aux air valve.

Well, open it up (take pics and post them!!) and check. If the wire really is busted, you can substitute a 12-ohm 1-watt ceramic "bathtub" resistor--if it fits. I didn't check the fit... Or you can string together 13 ohms worth of 1-watt resistors of whatever construction if you can get them to fit. Just make sure that the metal bits don't contact the housing anywhere.

I figure that, for the most part, any resistor of reasonably-appropriate values will heat up about as quickly as the original heater coil...

--DD

The AAR valve needs to be in the OEM location as motor heat will close it even if the wires were off. And DD my 72/1.7 FI has only one wire leaving the AAR bodie as a ground. You should bench check the thing to make sure it is doing what it should. My AAR valve gives me no problem ever. It was in the trunk now it's inside the house in a milk crate.

Pulled one off my spare motor (I do not know why I thought they were different.)

It test electrically good, soaked it with PB blaster a few days, and just installed it, will see if it functions after I adjust the valves.

Point of Discussion:

Any reason why an Aux valve from something else could not be adapted? It just a controlled vacuum leak right? Mounting it seems to be the biggest issue. I think I have one from a Rabbit around here I might try?