recently, i mean the engine runs good, but it seeme like its not as punchy as I would think. Is this just VW things, or am I supposed to feel some punch in high RPMS? Having 2nd grind when shfiting fast doesn't help etiher.... CRAP

compression test reads 45 or less in each cylinder...

so feeling has nothing to do with how tired an engine is.....I mean i dont lose that much oil (cept when those pushrod tube seals mess up) and it runs *OKAY*....compression test? does every mechanic have that or is it special?

Every *mechanic* will know how to do this for you.

It would be more fun to do it yourself, though.
The hour of shop time to do the test is more expensive than the tool.

Get the tool, we'll help you do the test.

KT

You should not shift a 914 transmission "fast". At least not in the same way you shift a ford or chevy. You must always pause before pushing the shifter home. I learned the hard way, and it cost me. With practice, you can shift as fast as any domestic car. You sort of push it with light pressure until it accepts the shift. It will click in on its own.

The reason is because you need to give the syncros a chance to speed up or slow down the gear being shifted into. The syncro comes in contact first and spins up. As the fork pushes the gear, it gets sped up by the syncro. Once the gear is spinning it will smoothly pop into mesh with the drive.

If the syncros are going bad, replace them now!When you hear that grind, it means the teeth of the gear itself are being ground. The actual 1st/rev gear costs $400 new, the others are like $200! I was told that even one grinding episode causes damage! I used to grind those gears when I first got the 914 running, trying to shift like I did my Jetta! When I tore my transaxle open, the damage was plain to see.

Just my .02 clink clink

QUOTE (bd1308 @ Jan 30 2005, 07:45 PM)

recently, i mean the engine runs good, but it seeme like its not as punchy as I would think. Is this just VW things, or am I supposed to feel some punch in high RPMS? Having 2nd grind when shfiting fast doesn't help etiher.... CRAP

Let's be realistic...It's 95 HP stock at it's best. Need more punch?...get more HP

A compression test will give you a "feel" for the heath of the engine i.e are the rings shot, valves bad, etc. If you haven't done this take it to a mechanic [preferably a Porsche or Type IV type] and have a leakdown test done. It's not expensive and will tell alot more than a basic compression test.

QUOTE (trekkor @ Jan 30 2005, 08:07 PM)

Every *mechanic* will know how to do this for you. It would be more fun to do it yourself, though. The hour of shop time to do the test is more expensive than the tool. Get the tool, we'll help you do the test. KT

Oh , yes...you can do it and it can be telling but a leak down is best all around.

I didn't bother because I was blowing smoke like a diesel!

Rebuilds are more fun IMHO

QUOTE (Brando @ Jan 30 2005, 07:53 PM)

compression test reads 45 or less in each cylinder...

45? It's not a Type one

well i *dont* shift my car fast at all....i did once or twice early on....um I can feel the syncros kicking in and I like the feel. I loev my 914, and if i treat it good it treats me well. most of the time i can shift 2nd w/o grinding....could i re-do the syncros on my own?

Do a search on redbeard here on the forum. He wrote some great articles about rebuilding the 914 transmission. 2nd syncro is harder than 1st/reverse, but it is doable.

not much harder at all. You just take the whole sucker apart! If you are doing 1st and 2nd, do 3rd,4th and 5th and be done with it. Reseal the tranny and good to go unless the dogteeth are shot too.

You can do 1st/reverse syncro w/o seperating the intermediate plate. To do the others, you have to seperate that sucker and risk messing up those shims...

When I feel tired I take a nap. When the p-car feels tired I feel my wallett getting light.



Mike D.

Do a compression test yourself. Tool at sears or any Flaps $30 to $50. If that test shows bad a leak down test can show where your loosing the compression but it will ultmatily leads to Motor work R&R. Comp test best Warm motor, disable ign and fuel eg pulling wires FI and ign. (dont want unburned fuel washing the oil from the rings it changes compression reading) then open throdle during test (can make intake vaccume and off the test a little) and lastly pull only one plug at a time for the test (dont want un filtered air and what ever sucking into the cylinders if all the plugs were out during testing) If the compression is OK then adjust your valves. A valve adj can bring back some pep.

somebody needs to come over my house to help me with my tranny. The casa is in Louisville,KY. I hear tickets to KY are cheap these days