So which calipers (or the stock variety) are better? Late or early (and why)? Or does it not make much difference?
Also, and this may sound like an odd question....is there any reason why the rotors couldn't be drilled while on the car (other than the labor involved) and yes I have no plate.
Thanx
David
Full Version: Stock rear brake questions
Drilled how?
The Cap'n
The Cap'n
QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Nov 7 2014, 01:25 PM) 
Drilled how?
The Cap'n
Something like this
https://www.google.com/search?q=images+dril...2B4%3B225%3B225
Drilled for 5 lug or for cooling?
The stock 914-4 calipers are functionally identical. They change in how they mount, but the pad size and caliper piston size are the same. They all go over solid rotors, they all perform basically the same.
IMHO, cross-drilling solid rotors on a street car is a waste of time. On a track car, it's probably also a waste of time. On a track car with vented rotors (the thick ones with passages through the middle), it is worthwhile. Mostly because track cars get inspected thoroughly before and after every event, so the cracks that will eventually form can be caught early enough before the brakes fail catastrophically.
--DD
IMHO, cross-drilling solid rotors on a street car is a waste of time. On a track car, it's probably also a waste of time. On a track car with vented rotors (the thick ones with passages through the middle), it is worthwhile. Mostly because track cars get inspected thoroughly before and after every event, so the cracks that will eventually form can be caught early enough before the brakes fail catastrophically.
--DD
QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Nov 7 2014, 04:54 PM)
The stock 914-4 calipers are functionally identical. They change in how they mount, but the pad size and caliper piston size are the same. They all go over solid rotors, they all perform basically the same.
IMHO, cross-drilling solid rotors on a street car is a waste of time. On a track car, it's probably also a waste of time. On a track car with vented rotors (the thick ones with passages through the middle), it is worthwhile. Mostly because track cars get inspected thoroughly before and after every event, so the cracks that will eventually form can be caught early enough before the brakes fail catastrophically.
--DD
Sage advice. Thanks for that.
QUOTE(steuspeed @ Nov 7 2014, 09:47 PM)
They don't sell ANY drilled rear rotors so I'm not clear on why you sent me the link.
Ammendment:
Duh. Because I never mentioned rears. My bad
So, back to the original question: Would drilling the REAR rotors have any positive effect given I already have vented 911 fronts?
The rear rotors are solid, like stock 914-4 front rotors. So no--no positive effect. Same reasons as I gave above. Additionally, the rears do much less work than the fronts do, so they build less heat in the first place.
The 914-4 rear calipers are all interchangeable, I think the only actual difference is that some have one bleeder (put it at the top!!) and some have two, one at the top and one at the bottom.
--DD
The 914-4 rear calipers are all interchangeable, I think the only actual difference is that some have one bleeder (put it at the top!!) and some have two, one at the top and one at the bottom.
--DD
QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Nov 8 2014, 12:31 AM)
The rear rotors are solid, like stock 914-4 front rotors. So no--no positive effect. Same reasons as I gave above. Additionally, the rears do much less work than the fronts do, so they build less heat in the first place.
The 914-4 rear calipers are all interchangeable, I think the only actual difference is that some have one bleeder (put it at the top!!) and some have two, one at the top and one at the bottom.
--DD
Awesome stuff Dave and thanks!
My plan is to keep em and git the PMB rebuild kit as I'm assuming (from all I've read) that they most likely aren't working (or barely) and are sorely in need of a rebuild.
911's on front and probably in need of a rebuild as well (although, in a different thread we've been talking about the possibility of 928 brakes for 3.5 spacing-must check mine tomorrow-doubtful they are)
For solid rotors, a groove to release gasses would be better than drilling. Drilling a rotor will make it weaker and prone to cracking if the drilled edge is not eased or rounded off.
BTW, if you try to drill rotors in the car, they will look like shit. It needs to be done in a drill press with a template.
BTW, if you try to drill rotors in the car, they will look like shit. It needs to be done in a drill press with a template.
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.