So I have had years of fun working on my 4 cyl however a few weeks ago I saw an ad in the classifieds section for a 1970 911e 2.2l engine w/zenith carbs for sale. I decided to buy it. I never had any plans for converting to a 6 cyl until now.

Here are a few basic 6 cyl conversion questions-

1. What is the best motor mount to use?

2. What size headers should I buy (1.5")?

3. What oil tank should I buy (I don't care about originality, just looking for best combination of function to cost)?

4. Are stock 1970 911e pressure plates usable on 914 side shift transmissions (the pressure plate looks flat- it doesn't look like a 914 pressure plate)?

It's a fun project!

I'd stick with the factory style oil tank, though there are folks making reproduction ones that should work fine. If the engine has a flat flywheel, you can get an adapter ring to use it with the 914 transmission/clutch package.

The center type engine mounts seem to be the best, most popular. Check out the ones made by Patrick Racing and also the one available on our host's site and choose which you like. Both are good, or you can choose the old 'Quick Six'mount if you want a cheaper version that also works.

The headers should work fine with that engine ( but obviously you'll lose heat/defrost by using them).

Our host has a nice tech article explaining the conversion process.

I believe Rich Johnson has some conversion parts, in particular a weld in mount. The oil tank just needs to fit and function. Pencil out your dream build and go for it!

Center type mounts are the best IMHO.
If you care about resale try to get a stock tank $$$$. Also If your trying to keep your car kind of original stock tank looks best.
Headers 1.5,,
Stock 2.2?? a new 6 spring disk and your good to go with stock tire size . Resurface flywheel.

Drive safe. Think about bigger brakes please.

Converting to a 6 cylinder engine makes the car less safe? Interesting...

Ah, jeez. Here we go.

When are you bringing it down so you have room? I may have some parts.

Unless you go for something aftermarket, the stock design clutch is the one you have to go with. A 2.2 clutch is a "pull type",. You would have to use the 2.2 flywheel, mega-bucks disc, cover, and release bearing, and you'll have to replace the pivot ball with a different type, moving it to a different location. You'll also need a (NLA) clutch fork and a different clutch cable. Other than that, the swap is cheap and easy ...

The Cap'n

For the oil tank, the one with the best $$/useability ratio is a used one. Failing that, a cylinder tank can be relatively cheap--but you have to find a place to put it, which can be a challenge. And it won't look stock.

I don't like the "quick six" mounts (they bolt to the -4 motor mount pods) because they can interfere with shift rods, exhaust, etc., and some of them are somewhat under-engineered. I think the mounts that weld to the bulkhead are the best way to go. Patrick, Rich Johnson, and others make some. Pelican sells at least one type. I think McMark is making one as well? Or was that just a single prototype?

Exhaust means either original heat exchangers (bring $$$) or headers (lose your heat). The B&B stainless 914-6 exchangers don't seem to fit very well and are probably not worth the bother.

Use the 914-6 clutch setup, which is the same as the 1969 911T setup.

--DD

You can run the 2.0 six flywheel and clutch up to a 2.7 motor. I ran this combo for years with my 2.7 with no issues.

I have these parts that I'm not going to use, I went with the conversion 228mm bus set-up instead.
The PP is not in good shape, flaking on the edges. It's the aluminum shoe and would need to be re-coated. I'm not sure what Porsche used on this, Nikasil maybe?
To use this you really need a 911-901 trans housing.

I'm using the DWD tank, I think the Patrick tank is the same, expensive but nice. Still less than a good real /6 tank.

The 2.0 aluminum pressure plate is the "S" plate. Both the flywheel and the PP were plated with copper. Running the 2.0 flywheel on a 2.4/2.7 is fine, and works well, but you have to replace the TDC and the 30/35 degree marks because the crankshaft bolts are clocked differently. Be sure to use the correct flywheel bolts, too.

The Cap'n

Stock oil tank placement is how the car was engineered....good design. A stock type tank that doesn't leak will serve you well. 1.5 headers are fine. If you need heat, it will be $$$ to find a good fitting pair of exchangers. Not so bad if you don't need heat. I have a Patrick weld in engine mount that I am VERY happy with. And yes, get at least stock /6 type brakes. I have '69 aluminum calipers up front and SC calipers in the rear with the parking brake....this is on my track car. Stopping has never been an issue.

Great thing about these conversions to a 911 engine is that they have been done so many times and for so long that you don't HAVE to reinvent the proverbial wheel.

I would love to find a used 914-6 oil tank. I've been looking for weeks.

They come up, but be willing to wait months.
Nice thing about the DWD tank is all the fittings are stock.

DWD tanks and not being made anymore. Patrick Motorsports makes a similar version but not nearly as nice.

Rich Johnson or MadDog mounts are my favorite. I made a stock replica mount but simply don't have the time to produce them for sale.

I like those mounts the best.

I have been looking around and all I can find is the Patrick oil tank. Are there any other options if DWD tanks are not being made anymore?

Is the factory tank NLA?

What is the major differences wit the Patrick tank vs the DWD?
I was assuming Patrick tanks (looks similar) were a run of DWD tanks or did they just copy them?