I understand how to get the best defrost cuz it tells me right there on the control panel but how do set the sliders for best cabin heat?
what does each slider control?
what do the three blue icons in the middle (| || |||) designate?
tried search here and looking at manual fixin to ask google but thought I'd ask the collective too
tia
cjl

shoulda looked a little harder found it on pelican via mr google
next question bout how long does it take to warm up?
my ~20 minute commute doesn't seem to generate much heat
cjl

You're in Texas! You don't need heat a car with heat!

Does your engine compartment heater blower fan work and is it coming on when you pull the lever? Is the rest of the heater system in place? Even if it's working optimally it's not going to crank out that much heat. You should feel a difference easily after 20 minutes, but don't expect it to blast out like a furnace, and don't expect the fan to move THAT much air.

Even the engineers at Porsche can explain it.
They shot the guy who designed it

thanks for the reply yep I know it works (or worked) I've felt it on longer drives
not sure about blower none of the three settings seem to change airflow much and the fan light does not come on that I have noticed or recall

The HEATER blower motor is controlled by the lever on the floor near the gear shift. Open part way and the flapper boxes let hot air through the heat exchangers. Open a little more and the blower motor ground lead grounds and (in theory) you have the blower motor in the engine compartment forcing more of that "toasty" air through the heater tubes. The red knob on the dash only controls which direction that hot air (sort of) goes (to the left: underneath the dash at those outlets; midway: at the vents on the dash; full to the right: defrost outlets). I do not think there is a light for the heater to indicate it's on for the stock solution, but some people do wire it so that when they pull that floor lever the little lens on the left side of the controls will light up (you have to put your own light in there and ground it to the heater control). The lens on the RIGHT is supposed to light up when you move the top lever to the I, II, or III position. But that's ONLY for fresh (cool) air.

The car will eventually feel warmer with or without the heater blower working. Being that close to the engine (and if you have heat exchangers at all) will do that.

The fan can push a lot air and blast your ass too. The system needs to have all parts in place and tight. When it works properly the heating system kicks.

Btw, it's gets damn cold in Texas! The state has 4 distinctly different climate regions

First off, in TX it does occasionally get colder than a "Well Diggers ass in January". At least the top 300 miles of the state. 2nd; my heater will roast me out. It's necessary that you have a tight system; beginning to end. Torn hoses, missing clamps, heat exchanger, rotten ducting/insulation in the longs, bad door/window/roof seals etc. can all reek havoc on the heating system.The heater fan in the engine bay is only necessary if your rpm's are down; i.e idling for long periods.

If in good working order, you'll get plenty of heat out of it.

Don't want my ass blasted - that doesn't sound pleasant - I just want some heat. I don't doubt my system is hardly optimal, but now you've given me motivation to find out why my heat system is more in the "barely twitching" rather than "kicks" category.

Yes, I understand that Texas can get cold. Thanks for the geography/climatology lesson. I was making a poor attempt at being facetious. I have noticed, however, that we have precisely one contributor here from north of the Mason-Dixon line and none from any of our good friends north of the border who may quibble with our definition of "damn cold."

My car starts getting warm in a couple minutes and lots of heat in 10 minutes. The stock heating system will roast you. I've driven below freezing and had plenty of heat in the cabin.

Before I started using the heat, I took a vacuum with a flex hose and ran it up all the heater tubes and vents. It's a common place for mice nests.

Completely agree. Heat in less than 5 minutes and you will get roasted.

Whoops.Double post

Somebody correct me if I am wrong, but I believe that your heat can also suffer if your motor is running rich (cooler). You also need to make sure that your heater valves are opening fully when you pull the lever.

I agree with those above - when everything is working properly, it will keep you more than warm.

This is also a good time to remind everyone that heat exchangers can and do develop cracks internally which would lead to carbon monoxide in your cabin. This can kill you and others, so it is important to test them periodically.

I also have one of these in my car at all times.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Kidde-Worry-Fre...09720/203728677

Mine is an older model, but does the same job. It is REALLY sensitive and does go off sometimes when I have my windows up on a long drive. I just crack the window and it goes back down to zero, but good to know it is doing its job.

My heaters in all my cars put out so much heat that I have to open the cold air to mix with the heat, or I can't stand it. This is after I make sure all the connections are good and the flappers are adjusted properly. No complaints about this heat system.

thanks for all the info I do get heat but it definitely doesn't blast my a$$ and I don't need to mix it with cold air to tame it -looks like I've got some connection/flapper investigation to do!
cjl