A picture of the Wilwood spot brake install.

Looks great.... Did you Fabricate the Bracket ?
Is the Spot Caliper Mechanical ?

Clay, you're right on the money with needing only one spot caliper to stop the car...on my 930 turbo a small 1/8"section of the ebrake spring broke off inside the drum and you could NOT even push the car
Sound byte of the horiz fan will eventually be on the msdsinc. site> working on it.
It does idle with about 80 Db of evilness
Chap, since we're so off topic, PM me and I'll give you some good pointers on the IC set-up. If you want to go thru (cut) the trunk lid, start with a donor trunk !
Marty

QUOTE (94teener @ Feb 2 2005, 09:41 AM)

A picture of the Wilwood spot brake install.

That is the parkbrake setup that I took to the swap meet. It was to be a bolt on, but no intrerest.

I can resurrect the project if I get some interest. I still have the CNC file to make it.


So how many of you would be interested?

QUOTE (ClayPerrine @ Feb 2 2005, 11:50 AM)

QUOTE (94teener @ Feb 2 2005, 09:41 AM) A picture of the Wilwood spot brake install. That is the parkbrake setup that I took to the swap meet. It was to be a bolt on, but no intrerest. I can resurrect the project if I get some interest. I still have the CNC file to make it. So how many of you would be interested?

If you are talking about the Bracket in the Picture posted by 94Teener I would be Interested in a Kit to do one Wheel

QUOTE (ClayPerrine @ Feb 2 2005, 07:50 AM)

QUOTE (94teener @ Feb 2 2005, 09:41 AM) A picture of the Wilwood spot brake install. That is the parkbrake setup that I took to the swap meet. It was to be a bolt on, but no intrerest. I can resurrect the project if I get some interest. I still have the CNC file to make it. So how many of you would be interested?

I would be interested in it Clay, I like Aarons idea also but I started thinking if it was pulled inadvertently while driving, it could and probably would rip the side out of the tranny. It was never meant for outward pressure like that. It might work for a 4 cylinder car but the weight of the V8 may kill it. I could be wrong though. But what if I am not.

Clay.... DAMN!!! That steel contraption! Talk about sprung weight!!!!

But i like the idea. I have something along the same lines but just for the spot caliper.

Maltese, I spoke with you a few years back at the GAF... you had just completed that motor, i remember most of the details.

Do you know where to find a drawing of that fan setup?

Clay,

Any pic's of how the stock cable attaches or is adapted to the Wilwood spot caliper? I'm not clear on how the lever position works with the position of the cable.

Andy

The caliper in the picture is on the wrong side of the car. The lever actually comes out the other side.

Then I made a rod to go from the cable to the caliper arm, and a spring to pull it to the released position.


Sorry... never took a picture of that.

What brake setup will be required on the rear to utilize that Clay? Not all of us have the same rear brakes due to upgrades and what not.

I am not even sure which brakes I have, but if the price is right, I am down, if it will work. All I would need would be the bracket, I can outsource the rest of the stuff, if that is okay.

QUOTE (iiibdsiil @ Feb 2 2005, 12:58 PM)

What brake setup will be required on the rear to utilize that Clay? Not all of us have the same rear brakes due to upgrades and what not. I am not even sure which brakes I have, but if the price is right, I am down, if it will work. All I would need would be the bracket, I can outsource the rest of the stuff, if that is okay.

All I would be selling is the pair of brackets. You have to set the spacers correctly to put the spot caliper in the middle of the rotor.

The brackets are made to bolt in on top of the factory 3" bolt spacing. You use longer bolts, and put the park brake bracket on top of the caliper. The type of main caliper doesn't matter.

So how much do you think the bracket is going to cost? It will come with an assortment of spacers I assume? Even if I have to file down to make it perfect, that is fine.

I like this idea a lot.

It won't come with spacers. If I do this, it will be just the brackets. The spacers are from the local Ace Hardware store. The brackets are made from 6061-T6 aluminum, and the holes are tapped for M-8 x1.25 bolts.


I may just get the G-code files and put them here for anyone to grab.

Hey Clay...

1:1 scale copies in a word or pdf file could be posted as well...not too hard to make that with hand tools if you don't mind working up a sweat

I should have my CNC mill running again in a few weeks if you can wait that long......(as long as I don't break anything else again...pretty sad, 2 CNC mills and both are broken )

If they are that easily accessible (the spacers) then that's fine. Not sure where I could get the bracket made, but maybe Mueller will be up for the task? Please?

QUOTE (iiibdsiil @ Feb 2 2005, 01:38 PM)

If they are that easily accessible (the spacers) then that's fine. Not sure where I could get the bracket made, but maybe Mueller will be up for the task? Please?

..it's Clays design and idea, I wouldn't sell them directly, I'd rather send them him and let him pass them on....depending on the thickness, I probebly have material at home for a few sets......

QUOTE (Mueller @ Feb 2 2005, 01:43 PM)

QUOTE (iiibdsiil @ Feb 2 2005, 01:38 PM) If they are that easily accessible (the spacers) then that's fine. Not sure where I could get the bracket made, but maybe Mueller will be up for the task? Please? ..it's Clays design and idea, I wouldn't sell them directly, I'd rather send them him and let him pass them on....depending on the thickness, I probebly have material at home for a few sets......

so we gave up on the idea of an inboard mounted brake?

iclays solution looks cool too.... adds sprung weight though... hmmm... what if you made the wilwood caliper mount on top of the rotor, so less bracket material is needed....

EDIT: Duh... like this

EDIT2: also... who made the above one?

EDIT3: also...with clays solution, you need to remove the hub.... new bearings

I'm not gonna argue over a couple pounds of unsprung weight. I doubt I will ever notice it.

Mueller, that is cool, the important part is getting the bracket made. I don't care if we export it to the chinese, if it is going to still be reasonably priced, then I don't care who sells it or makes it.

Of course it is Clay's design, so I rather him at least get something for it.

The caliper mounts UNDER the rotor. That way you can hook the link up to the cable with the cable mounted in the original location. No custom cable, just a rod to connect to the caliper arm.

The bearing and calipers don't have to be removed, just the bolts that hold the caliper on. Then you replace them with grade-8 bolts that are longer. The park brake caliper bracket acts as a washer.

The material is 1/2 thick 6061-t6 aluminum plate.

okay. thanks clay. that looks like a winning solution so what should we expect to pay for a set of brackets, and 2 wilwood calipers? do we need longer cables?

/4 front son the back with the super spot calipers....or even boxsters

I am not going to supply the calipers. You have to find them from Wilwood.

As for the brackets, that would be up to the machinist.

No, you don't have to put longer cables on it. Just a rod with a ball end to hook the factory cable to the caliper.

Clay,

Another question came to mind. How does the amount of pull necessary to activate the spot caliper work with the travel of the stock 914 hand brake lever cable travel?

Bet you never thought you'd generate so much interest after so much time.......Bet you wish you had a dozen sets of brackets already made up!!

BTW, thanks for fielding so many questions.

Andy

P.S. Wilwood does not show the mechanical spot caliper on their Site. A quick phone call confirmed that they still stock them....Apparently when they originally removed them from their site, they got a bunch of calls, so they will re-post them soon. P/N 120-2280(P) for .81" rotor RH, and P/N 120-2281(P) for .81" rotor LH.

Billet Spot Caliper


Here you go....takes a while to navigate it.....

and the suggested price list:

Wilwood pricing

QUOTE (Mueller @ Feb 2 2005, 02:07 PM)

Billet Spot Caliper Here you go....takes a while to navigate it..... and the suggested price list: Wilwood pricing

Mike,

That's the wrong one. The one in your link is the hydraulic one. You want the "MECHANICAL SPOT CALIPER." See above; the correct P/N is 120-22XX (XX depending on which width you choose).

Andy

dang, you are right...time for a visit to my eye doctor

QUOTE (andys @ Feb 2 2005, 03:41 PM)

Clay, Another question came to mind. How does the amount of pull necessary to activate the spot caliper work with the travel of the stock 914 hand brake lever cable travel? Bet you never thought you'd generate so much interest after so much time.......Bet you wish you had a dozen sets of brackets already made up!! BTW, thanks for fielding so many questions. Andy P.S. Wilwood does not show the mechanical spot caliper on their Site. A quick phone call confirmed that they still stock them....Apparently when they originally removed them from their site, they got a bunch of calls, so they will re-post them soon. P/N 120-2280(P) for .81" rotor RH, and P/N 120-2281(P) for .81" rotor LH.

When I had them hooked up on Betty's car, the handle did not move as much as the factory park brake. I put the pull on the inside hole to make it pull the longest distance. I was able to get it on the ratchet 2 notches. but that will depend on the cable adjustment on the car. More slack in the cable will let it pull farther up the ratchet. Personally, I don't want the park brake handle too high. I don't want to neuter myself getting in the car.


I am going to contact my machinist about making a run of them. I will see how much he wants to do them.

That looks intresting. I do have one question as far as parking brake.

For rear calipers without parking brakes why not just install a line lock solinoid in the rear line. Press foot brake, push line lock, release brake.

Instant parking brake!

QUOTE (DuckRyder @ Feb 3 2005, 07:25 AM)

That looks intresting. I do have one question as far as parking brake. For rear calipers without parking brakes why not just install a line lock solinoid in the rear line. Press foot brake, push line lock, release brake. Instant parking brake!

Two problems.

1. Most states (Texas is one) require a mechanical park brake to pass the state inspection statue. A line lock is not a mechanical park brake.

2. A line lock will bleed off pressure over time leaving your car rolling down the hill.

Ahh I see,

1) Isn't a problem here

2) I suppose that might be a problem in "long term" parking, I was thinking of "short term" parking



Carry on....

When I said "over time" I mean within an hour. Most line locks are meant to hold a drag racer at the line for a burnout. They aren't meant to be used for more than a few minutes.

Get a real mechanical park brake, or use a brick to chock the wheels.

QUOTE (ClayPerrine @ Feb 3 2005, 06:42 AM)

When I said "over time" I mean within an hour. Most line locks are meant to hold a drag racer at the line for a burnout. They aren't meant to be used for more than a few minutes. Get a real mechanical park brake, or use a brick to chock the wheels.

There is much agreement amongst the kit car and replica builders that line locks' are not safe, legal, or dependable. Basically, no one uses them.

Clay, I looked under my car to get re-acquanted with exactly how things look underneath the swing arm, etc. I see that the parking brake cable anchor (bulkhead) is angled so as to line-up with the caliper lever. With the spot caliper, the anchor would have to be re-located so that the cable would make a straight shot to its' lever. Also, the cable appears to be nearly long enough to extend to the new caliper. How did you re-locate the cable anchor, and about how long was the "adapter rod?"

This whole spot caliper thread I read with great interest, as I was originally going to adapt a complete Carrera rear braking system, including the parking brake drum set up. The spot caliper greatly simplifies the whole cable routing issue, which I always considered a pain to adapt to when compared to the spot.

Andy

QUOTE (ClayPerrine @ Feb 3 2005, 10:42 AM)

Get a real mechanical park brake, or use a brick to chock the wheels.

Got it.

Running stock calipers with working parking brakes...

I did not change the angle of the park brake cable mount. All I did was put a rod in that ran from the park brake caliper to the cable. The cable would pull at an angle, but it worked fine.

Hi Clay Any Update on Getting this Bracket machined ?

I have not had time to even think about it.

Well, get your priorities straight! Oh wait, apparently they are. Lol. Seriously though, take your time, we haven't had parking brakes for this long, a little longer isn't gonna hurt. I hate to be rushed, so of course there's not way that I am going to rush someone that is doing a favor.

I ended up getting a deal on a pair of early 911 trailing arms w/the drum parking brake assembly.....going this route instead, should be easier/more cost effective with less parts to deal with

Click to view attachment

I am working of a rear end setup with some similar parts of a 914 and saw this parking brake setup. I am in need of a parking brake and am getting ready to cut out my own parts to make it work when I saw this. Is anyone still using it? I emailed Clay and haven't heard from him, but would love to purchase one of these or get the CNC files to have my local guy make one.

Thanks for any help. Love what you guys are doing on this forum, it's pretty awesome. I can't believe I'm resurrecting a 9 year old thread but this adapter plate is really cool.

That idea was scrapped. We put a set on a car, and if you set the park brake with the rotor hot, it took a hammer to get the park brake to release.

How is this not a problem on the supercar installations?

I have heard this happen before. I'm not planning on using the emergency brake often, I need it more for legal purposes and as a true "emergency" brake. The car I bought is using a line lock and that's not going to cut it. I need some sort of solution, been researching awhile and found some other solutions that work similar, but none that bolt on to the outside of the caliper and are offset back in like you designed.

Here is one that is promising, but uses the caliper itself for mounting by Kirkwood: Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

Here is another from LevyRacing that uses the same mount that the caliper mounts to, but I don't want to reweld my trailing arm bracket: Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

Since you aren't producing these anymore, any chance I can get the G-Code for it? It would make my life easier and I'm not the best with cad.