So here is how I did this. Used warped pedal board to make pattern in 3/4 plywood. Clamp aluminum honeycomb to pattern and use ball bearing pilot bit to make the pedal board. I find that the stuff is incredibly strong - I couldn't bend a 4 inch wide panel with all my strength pressed against it. So for $50 shipped I got 3 pedal boards and then got tired of making them so I will use the leftover later. The last one I timed - 20 minutes including clamping and pilot hole drilling. Of course you get covered with aluminum chips because it is a screaming router. But no worse, probably easier than doing woodwork. Safety gear.
Here are the results. I will epoxy small aluminum plates where bolts attach etc.
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So has anyone done this? I used 1/4 inch thick with 1/4" cells.

1/4" Aluma-Lite (aluminum-plastic composite) can be cut with a simple hand reciprocating saw. That's what I use to make the (disposable) splitters on my race car...

Clever idea. I may use some of my cut-offs to build one.

Thanks.
I found the band saw works well. But I always cut a bit of a wavy line. This way every piece is exactly the same. I had to adjust the wooden pattern with a little bondo to make up for a bit of inconsistency in my original copy. The warped thin board is hard for the pilot to follow. But once you have the pattern done, which shouldn't be hard with your splitter it goes fast. tell me, do you have any curve to the part, cause I could barely bend the stuff, and when it does bend it can go all at once and then you got crumple all over. I doubt I can push this out with my foot, it won't rot or warp, its really light, and much cheaper than buying a new board of any kind. My son says carbon fiber. I will try laying it up if he wants to buy it for me.

My splitter (Acura Integra) is roughly the shape of a half-moon, straight in back and a big curve up front. Cuts fine with a jigsaw...

You could probably find someone nearby with a water jet. Should make short (clean) work of that stuff.

I've made these out of 1/4" foam and S-glass/epoxy. You don't need the strength there that alum honeycomb gives.

A way to cut alum honeycomb is to set it in water and put it in the freezer (or outside in winter!).

Yeah, but just setting to finding someone and asking them to do it would take more time and produce no cleaner results. I love water jets but in this case the router feeds clean and the only roughness is where one of the honeycomb strips wasn't bonded exactly right and the bit left it ready to dangle after the fact.
My point was it is dead easy, most tool people have routers, and the product is better than anything I have seen on the market in terms of both weight and outright strength. I was surprised that the stuff wasn't more spendy. So I wondered if anyone had done this before.
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45,000 cuts per minute.

Must have been loud.

I think using a router is a dam* good idea. And I'm sure it took you less time than I spent making a couple out of fiberglass and foam.

Router great job and it's looks great too,sheets of ABS might work as well

I use a water jet to cut my wood ones. Pretty much any material can be cut. Porsche actually uses a fine water jet to to the leather for the interiors. ABS could be used, but really just a matter of personal taste.

Your method it's exactly how I reproduce or mass produce parts in the cabinet shop. Be sure to blow out the router frequently while using it. The aluminum chips will ruin the router.

Btw, that bit is called a flush trimming bit or pattern makers bit. It's available in different lengths, with bearing on top or bottom. It's not meant to be used to make a complete cut, but just to trim flush after rough cutting with a saw. The bit with a quarter inch shank can flex if hogged too hard..

That looks good. The final touch would be to fill the edges and any holes with hard points that go through.
http://www.atacs.com/products/epoxy-resins...ht-core-filler/
Bondo may work fine.
http://www.hexcel.com/Resources/DataSheets..._Technology.pdf

OK now I really really want a water jet. And a laser...

Yeah, I had that in mind. I will post whenever I get that far. The post above reminded me about the conductivity of aluminum. Thanks. I used to build all of the cabinetry for our hoses we successively owned so I have several routers - mostly gathering dust these days. FWIW I did use a 1/4 shank, but I love the solid feel of the half inch ones. But there was no real resistance to the cutter - the aluminum is hardly there of course. I was once told that routers are the number one gift tool never used. They have an end that will make you into ground meat and scream like banshees. But they also do things other tools will not.

The idea that a waterjet will cut wood. Now that's an idea. In this case I decided to get a direct print from the original.