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jack20
I've been reading several posts regarding clutch tubes that have come loose.
I am having shifting and clutch release problems and while renewing all of the linkage bushings gained access to the clutch tube at the shifter. When I depress the clutch the tube moves about 1/4" side to side. Does this indicate a detached clutch tube?
Mike Bellis
Yes, but some are worse than others. If it moves at all, it is transferring the pull movement into a lateral movement. You are there by loosing some pull.

The worse movement is at the rear firewall where the tube will move forward as the pedal is pushed. You will need a helper to witness this movement.
EdwardBlume
The tubes can get gummed up by rust. That may be your first stage of decline.
BeatNavy
I would get under the car and first make sure the clutch cable is tightened appropriately (I believe the clutch pedal should have about 1/2 inch of free movement) and see how it feels. If you're still having problems disengaging or feel like you have to push the pedal as far as it can go, then you're probably right - the tube has broken off at one or more weld points and is coming loose. Those are the symptoms I noticed before mine gave way.

I agree with Mike to check it at the firewall, as on my car the sheet metal cracked and gave way there. That put extra stress on the weld point in the tunnel which then gave way soon after resulting in no clutch at all. If you think that's what's happening, get it fixed soon or you'll be stuck somewhere.
Bartlett 914
QUOTE(jack20 @ Dec 1 2014, 01:13 AM) *

I've been reading several posts regarding clutch tubes that have come loose.
I am having shifting and clutch release problems and while renewing all of the linkage bushings gained access to the clutch tube at the shifter. When I depress the clutch the tube moves about 1/4" side to side. Does this indicate a detached clutch tube?

Short answer is yes. There should be no movement. It is welded in the front where the cable goes into the tube. It is welded to a bracket in the middle and at the rear firewall. It breaks up front first. the flexing breaks the middle or the rear next.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

The clutch tube is one the top in this last picture
Bruce Hinds
The firewall repair is tricky too. It's right next to the fuel line!
Mueller
Didn't somebody use to sell a bolt in kit for securing those tubes better?

I think I welded up Jeff Bowlsby's Creamsicle clutch tube years ago...not too difficult.
jack20
QUOTE(Mueller @ Dec 1 2014, 07:34 AM) *

Didn't somebody use to sell a bolt in kit for securing those tubes better?

I think I welded up Jeff Bowlsby's Creamsicle clutch tube years ago...not too difficult.

This is all very helpful, especially the photos. Thank you.
In order to do the weld did you cut a hole in the top of the tunnel?
Dave_Darling
That's one way it gets done. A better way is to clean off the outside of the center tunnel where the spot-welds are that hold the front bracket, then drill through the welds into the tunnel. Then plug-weld the bracket back in place. A solid fix that shouldn't go bad again in the lifetime of the car, assuming decent penetration of the weld.

That's what McMark did on my car.

--DD
JeffBowlsby
NO CUTTING NECESSARY! Just strategically located plug welds from the outside of the tunnel. Pull the shifter out to locate exactly where the welds need to be, clamp the tube to the tunnel wall and weld. Put a wood stick or craftsmans Phillips screwdriver in the tube to prevent the weld from burning through the tube and blocking the ID.

Mike did a great job!
jack20
QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Dec 1 2014, 08:07 AM) *

That's one way it gets done. A better way is to clean off the outside of the center tunnel where the spot-welds are that hold the front bracket, then drill through the welds into the tunnel. Then plug-weld the bracket back in place. A solid fix that shouldn't go bad again in the lifetime of the car, assuming decent penetration of the weld.

That's what McMark did on my car.

--DD

Good suggestion. I'm sure I can locate the bracket on the driver's side by slipping a stiff wire in through the shifter hole. No I just need to find someone to weld it. I've always wanted to buy one on those 110v mig welders but I don't wasn't to practice on my car...
jack20
QUOTE(jack20 @ Dec 1 2014, 08:32 AM) *

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Dec 1 2014, 08:07 AM) *

That's one way it gets done. A better way is to clean off the outside of the center tunnel where the spot-welds are that hold the front bracket, then drill through the welds into the tunnel. Then plug-weld the bracket back in place. A solid fix that shouldn't go bad again in the lifetime of the car, assuming decent penetration of the weld.

That's what McMark did on my car.

--DD

Good suggestion. I'm sure I can locate the bracket on the driver's side by slipping a stiff wire in through the shifter hole. No I just need to find someone to weld it. I've always wanted to buy one on those 110v mig welders but I don't wasn't to practice on my car...

Thanks Jeff. I didn't see your photo before I responded. How did you insert a screwdriver into the tube? Should I assume then that the cable needs to be removed?
Remember you are communicating with a newbie...
JeffBowlsby
QUOTE(jack20 @ Dec 1 2014, 08:41 AM) *

QUOTE(jack20 @ Dec 1 2014, 08:32 AM) *

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Dec 1 2014, 08:07 AM) *

That's one way it gets done. A better way is to clean off the outside of the center tunnel where the spot-welds are that hold the front bracket, then drill through the welds into the tunnel. Then plug-weld the bracket back in place. A solid fix that shouldn't go bad again in the lifetime of the car, assuming decent penetration of the weld.

That's what McMark did on my car.

--DD

Good suggestion. I'm sure I can locate the bracket on the driver's side by slipping a stiff wire in through the shifter hole. No I just need to find someone to weld it. I've always wanted to buy one on those 110v mig welders but I don't wasn't to practice on my car...

Thanks Jeff. I didn't see your photo before I responded. How did you insert a screwdriver into the tube? Should I assume then that the cable needs to be removed?
Remember you are communicating with a newbie...


The screwdriver goes in the end of the tube...insert it though the shifter hole. Cable definitely needs to be out of the tube, or you run the risk of welding it to the tube. You can also use a wood stick or pencil - anything to keep the tube open and clear during the welding process.
Bartlett 914
QUOTE(Jeff Bowlsby @ Dec 1 2014, 11:24 AM) *

NO CUTTING NECESSARY! Just strategically located plug welds from the outside of the tunnel. Pull the shifter out to locate exactly where the welds need to be, clamp the tube to the tunnel wall and weld. Put a wood stick or craftsmans Phillips screwdriver in the tube to prevent the weld from burning through the tube and blocking the ID.

Mike did a great job!

Looks nice Jeff. I cut my tunnel years ago and repaired the broken weld. It worked but looked...well not as nice as yours
jack20
QUOTE(Bartlett 914 @ Dec 1 2014, 09:54 AM) *

QUOTE(Jeff Bowlsby @ Dec 1 2014, 11:24 AM) *

NO CUTTING NECESSARY! Just strategically located plug welds from the outside of the tunnel. Pull the shifter out to locate exactly where the welds need to be, clamp the tube to the tunnel wall and weld. Put a wood stick or craftsmans Phillips screwdriver in the tube to prevent the weld from burning through the tube and blocking the ID.

Mike did a great job!

Looks nice Jeff. I cut my tunnel years ago and repaired the broken weld. It worked but looked...well not as nice as yours

This forum is invaluable. Thanks to everyone for taking the time to help a newbie with this great information. If anyone in the Sacramento/Roseville area has a welderr, experience and wants to make a few extra $$ let me know.
Thanks!
Jack
barefoot
My clutch tube was broken free at all 3 attachment points. Some PO had welded a thick pad at the firewall, but the front end was way out of position.
i added a clamp intended for electrical conduit up front.
That tube aint going nowhere.

Click to view attachment
jack20
QUOTE(jack20 @ Dec 1 2014, 10:54 AM) *

QUOTE(Bartlett 914 @ Dec 1 2014, 09:54 AM) *

QUOTE(Jeff Bowlsby @ Dec 1 2014, 11:24 AM) *

NO CUTTING NECESSARY! Just strategically located plug welds from the outside of the tunnel. Pull the shifter out to locate exactly where the welds need to be, clamp the tube to the tunnel wall and weld. Put a wood stick or craftsmans Phillips screwdriver in the tube to prevent the weld from burning through the tube and blocking the ID.

Mike did a great job!

Looks nice Jeff. I cut my tunnel years ago and repaired the broken weld. It worked but looked...well not as nice as yours

This forum is invaluable. Thanks to everyone for taking the time to help a newbie with this great information. If anyone in the Sacramento/Roseville area has a welderr, experience and wants to make a few extra $$ let me know.
Thanks!
Jack

Hello again,
I clamped the clutch tube Forward of the shifter hole and heard a knocking sound coming from the anchorage behind the shifter. I placed a long screwdriver tip in the area and placed the handle at my ear. No doubt it is loose.
What experience has anyone had repairing this break?
jack20
QUOTE(barefoot @ Dec 1 2014, 03:30 PM) *

My clutch tube was broken free at all 3 attachment points. Some PO had welded a thick pad at the firewall, but the front end was way out of position.
i added a clamp intended for electrical conduit up front.
That tube aint going nowhere.

Click to view attachment

I see that you have anchored the front of the tube. Did you anchor the center attachment as well?
sean_v8_914
if movement is minor, clutch function is correct and firewall is still intact, the fix is simple as described.

if firewall is compromised than a complete repair of all 3 attachment points is required
sean_v8_914
it all starts with that front bracket. once it lets go, the firewall fatigues
when the firewall lets go, the middle bracket gets deformed and the tube moves out of position. this bracket will interfere with the shift rod

proper clutch tube position is critical. if its too far forward, the cable will seem too long
Brian_Boss
QUOTE(Bartlett 914 @ Dec 1 2014, 09:04 AM) *

QUOTE(jack20 @ Dec 1 2014, 01:13 AM) *

I've been reading several posts regarding clutch tubes that have come loose.
I am having shifting and clutch release problems and while renewing all of the linkage bushings gained access to the clutch tube at the shifter. When I depress the clutch the tube moves about 1/4" side to side. Does this indicate a detached clutch tube?

Short answer is yes. There should be no movement. It is welded in the front where the cable goes into the tube. It is welded to a bracket in the middle and at the rear firewall. It breaks up front first. the flexing breaks the middle or the rear next.

The clutch tube is one the top in this last picture


The tube doesn't always break the front mount first. The clutch pedal always felt a little wonky on one of my cars. When I had the shifter off, I could only feel the tiniest amount of movement in the tube at the front end, so I thought it was just my imagination. Later discovered that all the mounts except the front were broken, including the firewall. Not sure why it happened and it's the only one I've ever seen like that.

I would suggest you inspect everything, including the firewall, before cutting, drilling or welding anything.
sean_v8_914
this guy had his clutch tube wrapped around the shift rod
sean_v8_914
ghdj
sean_v8_914
Brian boss case would be a rare exception. i do at least one of these a month. i see it enough to say that it is in every 914s future. it is only a matter of time

v8 guys with heavy pressure plates are at the front of the line
jack20
QUOTE(sean_v8_914 @ Dec 1 2014, 06:57 PM) *

Brian boss case would be a rare exception. i do at least one of these a month. i see it enough to say that it is in every 914s future. it is only a matter of time

v8 guys with heavy pressure plates are at the front of the line

I wish the car was in San Diego so you could take care of it. The odd thing is that my front bracket is holding. The center anchor has broken loose. Firewall is fine. Do you have a suggestion for reattaching the tube to the bracket behind the shifter, the middle one?
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