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DavidSweden
Stock engine 2.0 76 with stock D jet

I have searched the site and there seems to be mixed reviews regarding the Webcam #73 grind.

Is this cam god with the stock FI and will it just bolt in without the need to change the rocker geometry, or should I stick with the stock cam?


G e o r g e
QUOTE(DavidSweden @ Dec 1 2014, 09:09 AM) *

Stock engine 2.0 76 with stock D jet

I have searched the site and there seems to be mixed reviews regarding the Webcam #73 grind.

Is this cam god with the stock FI and will it just bolt in without the need to change the rocker geometry, or should I stick with the stock cam?


I believe you will need to check rocker geometry with almost any changes from factory, ie: new cam, head work, new P&C's everything can affect it.

Jake Raby
You will need to correct the geometry when using this camshaft.
reharvey
I have this cam in two of my 2.0 FI cars. You'll also need to make some adjustments to the FI system.
Cap'n Krusty
Web Cam's sales department thinks it'll work, but it doesn't, at least not well. Under 2000 RPM it'll be pig rich, and braking that RPM barrier is "interesting", to say the least.
DavidSweden
What adjustments to the FI are required?
Regards valve train geometry is it just a case of shimming under the rockers to get the correct angle at half valve lift?

And what does the CapĀ“n mean about breaking the RPM barrier?

Grateful if someone could answer my newbie questions, thanks
colingreene
he means that it will struggle to get past 2k
DavidSweden
QUOTE(colingreene @ Dec 2 2014, 10:58 AM) *

he means that it will struggle to get past 2k



Ok so this cam is no good?

What are my alternatives to the stock cam?

Anyone
Cap'n Krusty
QUOTE(colingreene @ Dec 2 2014, 10:58 AM) *

he means that it will struggle to get past 2k



Actually, I was referring to the "flat spot" through transition. Above 2K RPM it'll probably run OK. You have to raise the idle, too. All in all, not a satisfactory driveability experience.

The Cap'n
colingreene
Thats usually what a flat spot has ment to me.
its just struggling to get going.
reharvey
QUOTE(reharvey @ Dec 1 2014, 09:44 PM) *

I have this cam in two of my 2.0 FI cars. You'll also need to make some adjustments to the FI system.



Forgot to mention that both of my cars run great without any driveablity issues but I've been playing around with these FI systems for 30yrs. Unless you know someone that can help you make the modifications and adjustment to make it work you would be better off using a stock cam.
DavidSweden
QUOTE(reharvey @ Dec 2 2014, 01:11 PM) *

QUOTE(reharvey @ Dec 1 2014, 09:44 PM) *

I have this cam in two of my 2.0 FI cars. You'll also need to make some adjustments to the FI system.



Forgot to mention that both of my cars run great without any driveablity issues but I've been playing around with these FI systems for 30yrs. Unless you know someone that can help you make the modifications and adjustment to make it work you would be better off using a stock cam.


Thanks for the information. I don't know anything about adjusting the FI, is it so difficult? Could you outline the procedure if you have the time of course. It seems like the easy way out just to install the stock cam

Thanks again
emoze
web 73 cam

- I ran one for several years in a 2.0 d-jet car with euro p&c's and a 4mm overbored intake

- loved it - great midrange improvement - excellent drivability

had to tune the d-jet by inserting an inline variable resistor in the HT circuit

plenty of info about d-jet & cams in the old 914Club archives

for example "First step when you think you have any FI problems: Check your ignition system. Timing, dwell, condition of components, all of it. What you describe sounds like two problems. First, the oscillation is known as a "lean hunt". Your idle mixture was too lean. Unplugging Temp Sensor I (the intake air temp sensor) richens up the mixture somewhat. I'd suggest plugging the sensor back in and using another method to richen the mixture. First, try the knob on the brain. This is used to change the idle mixture. Clockwise should make it richer. If this doesn't help, back the knob off about 8 clicks or so, then see if increasing the fuel pressure will do the trick. To increase the fuel pressure, you turn the bolt on the end of the fuel pressure regulator (left-rear corner of engine compartment, on a bracket sticking up from the engine tin). Loosen the jam nut first, clockwise to increase pressure. This will make the mixture richer. Note: It's a good idea to have a fuel pressure gauge hooked up when you do this, so you can see how much you're increasing the fuel pressure. Don't overdo it. ( <5 PSI change, at a guess.) Another method is to increase the resistance in the Temp Sensor II (head temp) circuit. Add a resistor or a potentiometer to the circuit where the sensor connects to the wiring harness. Some- thing on the order of 0-500 ohm, 1 watt will do. When you get the pot dialed to something that lets the engine run nicely, measure the resistance of the pot and substitute a fixed resistor of that value. That's because many potentiometers, when subjected to the heat and vibration found in a 914 engine compartment, will start to get flakey and really throw your mixture out the window." ~ author unknown - This email was cleaned by emailStripper,

CAVEAT - a '76 in California would have to be smogged - and above ideas may not result in passing emissions
DavidSweden
Thanks a lot for the information, I really appreciate the help. The procedure sounds pretty simple.

Yes the car was smogged but was all removed by PO and is currently in Gothenburg Sweden.

If anyone would like to add something regarding the FI please go ahead and help me out on this one.

Thanks again
LDBfield
QUOTE(DavidSweden @ Dec 2 2014, 11:02 PM) *

Thanks a lot for the information, I really appreciate the help. The procedure sounds pretty simple.

Yes the car was smogged but was all removed by PO and is currently in Gothenburg Sweden.

If anyone would like to add something regarding the FI please go ahead and help me out on this one.

Thanks again


Lots O' Djet info.

http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/djetparts.htm

Cheers!
Dave_Darling
I know people who claim to have made the D-jet work well on a 914 engine with the Web #73 cam. I also know people who claim that it can't be done. (The Cap'n is one of the latter.) I'm not sure if the difference is in how they define "working well", or if there were differences between the setups that they were trying on, or what.

One thing I'm a bit more sure about, though: I don't think the "it worked fine" people included having to pass an emissions test as part of their definition. Because I have strong doubts that a Web 73-equipped car would pass any but the most lenient sniffer tests. So if your car will have its emissions tested, I would stick to the stock cam grind.

--DD
DavidSweden
Yes thats a good point....I need to think this over
DavidSweden
Yes thats a good point....I need to think this over
914_teener
QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Dec 3 2014, 09:09 AM) *

I know people who claim to have made the D-jet work well on a 914 engine with the Web #73 cam. I also know people who claim that it can't be done. (The Cap'n is one of the latter.) I'm not sure if the difference is in how they define "working well", or if there were differences between the setups that they were trying on, or what.

One thing I'm a bit more sure about, though: I don't think the "it worked fine" people included having to pass an emissions test as part of their definition. Because I have strong doubts that a Web 73-equipped car would pass any but the most lenient sniffer tests. So if your car will have its emissions tested, I would stick to the stock cam grind.

--DD



Dave....that's why they call it a -73 cause before that you are smog exempt..........

biggrin.gif



Not. I am in the camp of the OP. Depends who you talk to.


DavidSweden

Teener,

You mean that the #73 has worked for you?
914_teener
I have zero experience with that cam Dave. My comment was meant as a pun/ joke about the grind No.73. In California if you have a 73 you don't have to pass an emissions test.

With that said:

It depends on what you want to do. What are you trying to achieve by changing the cam using stock d-jet? Just curious.




DavidSweden
Sorry I missed the pun Teener. Yes stock DJet.

The reason I am changing the cam is that the old one is worn. I read that the stock cam was very inefficient so I was looking for an alternative, I wanted a Rabby 9550 (I think that's the one) but they don't seem to be available.

Anyhow I got fed up with all the different opinions some say the Webcam #73 is good others that it will never work. I saw a stock NOS cam with lifters on the Samba so I bought that.
Java2570
I believe 9590 is the replacement for the 9550 cam from Type 4 store....it's supposed to have some
improvements made to it from the 9550.
DavidSweden
QUOTE(Java2570 @ Dec 5 2014, 11:04 AM) *

I believe 9590 is the replacement for the 9550 cam from Type 4 store....it's supposed to have some
improvements made to it from the 9550.



You mean this one

It would cost another 25% import tax to bring it into Sweden, I dont think its worth it for a stock car (for me that is)
Java2570
That's the one. They only sell the kits now.....it is a bit pricey, especially when shipping to Sweden!
Java2570
QUOTE(DavidSweden @ Dec 5 2014, 02:12 PM) *

QUOTE(Java2570 @ Dec 5 2014, 11:04 AM) *

I believe 9590 is the replacement for the 9550 cam from Type 4 store....it's supposed to have some
improvements made to it from the 9550.



You mean this one

It would cost another 25% import tax to bring it into Sweden, I dont think its worth it for a stock car (for me that is)


For what it's worth, European Motorworks in Hawthorne, CA have a stock grind cam. I used one in my 2.0L rebuild last year and it seems pretty good so far. I don't know if it's exactly the same as a stock Porsche cam or not but it's an option. I bought lifters from them as well....
I did purchase the 9590 kit for my 2056 build but I'm not anywhere near done with it yet.
914_teener
QUOTE(DavidSweden @ Dec 5 2014, 09:27 AM) *

Sorry I missed the pun Teener. Yes stock DJet.

The reason I am changing the cam is that the old one is worn. I read that the stock cam was very inefficient so I was looking for an alternative, I wanted a Rabby 9550 (I think that's the one) but they don't seem to be available.

Anyhow I got fed up with all the different opinions some say the Webcam #73 is good others that it will never work. I saw a stock NOS cam with lifters on the Samba so I bought that.



No worries about the pun or opinions...everyone's got one.... so here is another. laugh.gif

I have been looking reading and talking about cam's for these motors for quite sometime as well. I haven't done anything about it as yet- I am still working on a replacement trans, so no time and money for the motor right now.

I don't think the stock cam is inefficient....just optimized for the hard mapped VE curve that D-jet provides, if that is what you are going to use for induction.

If you change the cam and or other things, you will change the VE curve on the motor as you may know already.

I know Raby's stuff is pricy....absolutely no affiliation....but as far as I know, he has done lots of dyno work, that is worth something.

I don't think you can go wrong with the stock setup...just expect what the stock specifications already show...Net 80 BHP or so at the wheels.

Expect also a reliable motor given a good meticulous build and decent gas mileage with the stock set up. I like the "set and forget" reliability that the good ole d-jet provides. It can be tweeked to a new interpolation with a different cam ect. as others have done.

If it's me...I don't mind paying for that experience. Do it once and no regrets. It's hard to weed out all the opinions for sure. Dyno time and results are proof in my book.

In My Humble Opinion.

Others may vary.

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