Hi guys! So I've come to the conclusion that I FINALLY need to swap out transmissions. (I have a replacement on blocks

I've done a couple engine rebuilds but Ive never just swapped a transmission out without pulling the motor. First question...is it possible to just pull the tranny without dropping the motor? What are some things I should watch out for, and what is super important to replace while Im under the car and swapping trany's??

Thanks guys!
-Christopher

Yep, easy peasy. Of course, get the car up on jackstands (or ramps work well in this case too). Then use a hydraulic jack with a wood block to very lightly support the back of the engine. Remove the transmission through the normal procedure and reinstall the new one. Don't forget about the ground strap and the orientation of the giant cup washers on the rear trans mounts

Be sure to replace all seals on the new transmission before it goes in. Speedo drive seal (McMark makes an awesome kit for this), input shaft seal, output shaft seals, linkage lever seal. Check the condition of the clutch and throwout bearing while you're in there. If there is any doubt as to the health of the engine's rear main seal, you might consider pulling the flywheel and doing that at the same time. But you'd also need to check endplay and do other stuff - in which case, you'd probably just pull the motor at the same time.

Then when you are done with removal of the tranny block the engine up on something other than the hydraulic jack.

We all know how "Yeah it will be out for a few hours" turns into a couple of months before you know it.
A hydraulic jack should never be left to hold a load for long.

If you use a hydraulic jack, be prepared to replace the motor mounts next. That's how I tore mine--pulled the transmission out, and figured it'd be OK to use a jack for "just a little while". The next morning, the jack was at its collapsed height, and the motor mounts were torn.

Remove the muffler. If you have a rear valance, you probably want to remove that as well. Loosen the motor mount bolts so that the whole drivetrain pivots more easily. Unhook all of the cables and wires from the trans, support the trans on a jack, then unbolt the rear mounts from the chassis. Lower the rear of the trans on your jack, then support the rear of the motor with a jack stand. Go back into the engine bay and remove the upper nuts/bolts holding the trans to the engine, remove the starter, then remove the lower two mount nuts. Pull the trans backward, away from the engine.

I actually don't use the jack after I support the rear of the engine; I'm strong enough to manhandle the 75 lbs of 901 gearbox without it. I just balance the trans on my knees and pull it back, then lower it onto my legs when it slides off the studs and out of the clutch. A more prudent person would probably keep the trans on the jack.

Installation is pretty much the same thing the other way--except that I do use the jack to hold the trans. And it can be challenging to get the input shaft splines to line up with the clutch disk splines; I put the trans in gear and rotate the output flanges to spin the input shaft until the splines line up.

--DD

Sorry, I should have clarified that. Yep, a cinder block or a couple blocks of wood should be used to support the engine if you're going to have the transmission out for more than an hour or so.

I'm like Dave - I typically manhandle the trans on the way out and back in. But as I get older it's easier to just use a jack if everything is centered. I think the 901 is about the largest transmission this is possible with - ask T.C. how far I got when I tried to clean and jerk a Mustang T45 into place.... I didn't get nearly as far as I thought I would.

Follow the tech article on pelicanparts.com for replacing the clutch. It walks you through tranny removal step-by-step.

I used this... Harbor Freight Tranny Jack

I have only used it to pull the engine and trans together. But I know it would be an even easier job for just the tranny.

They go on sale and they have coupons ALL THE TIME. Best deal might be around $70.

Click to view attachment

I used that exact trans jack when I did it.
I held the engine with a floor jack while I removed the trans with that.

Then I took the trans off I put that trans scissor jack under the engine and tipped it back up a bit for storage.
Sat that way for a few months.

Then when I put it back in it went it so perfectly - POP that I had to stop and wonder if I forgot the clutch disk or something...