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... what was the arrangement of bolts/washers/bushings/cushions/nuts/rubber isolators/silentbloc/spacers/etc was used to connect to the -4 engine mts on the body?

The mount bolts directly to the front of the six cylinder engine, and the rubber isolation mounts used in pre-73 914s mount the outer attachments. It could be mounted without the isolation mounts, but that would transmit all the engine vibrations to the chassis.

Don't know, I'm guessing you use the same mounts as the 914 tranny, 911 motor or sporto mounts.

That mount really sucks and it will be in the way for valve adjustment,etc...you won't like it.
Get a maddog or RJ and be done with it. I built my own.

Oh I get it... only taken you 3 years to get to this point
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...4&st=0&

If it's just a test stand who cares if it's isolated

How about that large washer with the cut-out?

Mark: I don't have a -6 motor ready to bolt in yet but was going the way of using the mount in a conversion. I used a homemade dolly to test a type IV motor
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gRLyDnp7G_0
the quik -6 mount could be made to work w/ the dolly and move the engine around.

I'm going from a fuzzy memory when I had that setup, but I think I used the large washer on both the upper and lower surfaces of the rubber donut. I seem to remember that I needed to space the mount either up or down to position the engine correctly, but it was not a big deal.

I can't even tell you if a trans/sporto mount would work, I cut off my /4 on-body mounts.

You use the normal 914/4 rubber mounts in the chassis console (same as the trans mounts) and this engine mount bar bolts to the bottom of the rubber mounts. Use the transmission 'hat' washer (don't know what else to call it) between the bar and rubber mount and as big of a washer as you can on the very bottom. When I had it, I ran the bolt UP through bar with the nut on the top of the rubber mount. Seemed to be easier.

Not sure this picture helps, but you can basically see it...

Having said all this...I broke two of them and have seen a few others break. It cracked right near where the engine mount meets the bar. If you're engine has any kind of power, the torque of the engine hanging on this bar is too much stress for it. Mine was a 2.2 liter...

We replaced them on both cars with the mount I sell. It's similar to the new PMS welded bulkhead mount but better and stronger....and cheaper. Just don't have any in stock right now

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I throw "Quick Six" mounts in the trash. RJ or Maddog only for me.

Nice shift rod. Do you have dimensions?

??
No, and don't have that rod anymore either....it broke at VIR this year (at least I think it was the same one....that picture is from 8 years or so ago...)

I am looking at two options right now: a) either install the 915 with Vellios side shift kit I have sitting in my garage and get a shift rod set up from Chris Foley at Tangerine Racing....or b).explore a Boxster S transmission... I would LOVE to figure out option b...

Mine was in the car when I bought it and was fine with the 2.7. But it cracked with the weight of the 3.6 on the track. Got it welded with the gussets to bolster the bar to the uprights and it's been fine ever since. It wouldn't have happened if the gussets had been there all along.

It'd be fine in an engine stand... a bit wide though.

Who sells the bar nowadays? My local PCA buddies (one who races his car) swear by the quick six mount. I will only be running a mildly tuned 2.7 (hoping for 200 hp), and the only track time it will see will be DEs.

EDIT: Just googled it and AA has them for $467. I will comment no further...

I think PMS use to sell a reproduction or something similar but it also had breaking issues? Their new /6 mount (bolted or welded to firewall) is the best IMHO.

If someone is looking for one, there was a similar 'Quick 6' style bar that was stronger and I bought one years ago from Otto's in Venice Beach (R.I.P. John). I think Brad Mayeur at 914Ltd may have it now if anyone's interested.

I broke 2 with a 2.2 liter with about 200 hp...

I do have one that has been repaired/rewelded if anyone is interested. It was good for a year or so until I decided to go with the bulkhead welded mount.

http://naroescapemotorsports.com/914-6-engine-mount/

The RJ or Maddog mount is super easy to install.

I had one and didn't have problems. That said if I was doing a conversion I would use Naro's new one

The bulkhead mounts are easy to fabricate. I made mine and at the time sold a few of them to help with the cost of my conversion. To me, they are far easier to do than nicely finished bodywork.

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I have commitment issues. If I ever want to go back to a 4 to sell the car, I would have the option. If I were going to do a bulkhead mount, I think that I would rather do the bolt-in kind, as I would be able to take it off and keep it if I sold the car.

My second reason is that I use the threaded rod method for engine removal/installation as it is safe and easy for one person. I suppose that I could still do that with some of the other bulkhead mounts.

I wouldn't bolt in a bulkhead mount, but a /4 will still fit with a bulkhead mount installed.
I bet maddog would sell you just the firewall section if you sold the car.

That Patrick quick six bar is made of chrome moly (4130 IIRC) and in theory should be strong enough, but we know how that works out. The thing I didn't like about the one I had in my car was it had a bit of a spring action to it and I could feel the 3.0 bouncing, even though everything was bolted tight. There's fit issues with ancillaries too.

Firewall mount is the only way to go.

It's very, very rare that anyone converts back to a four cylinder. I personally know no one who has.

any info/comments on the gussets (position, shape, strength,... )

IIRC Patrick TIG welds those and then they are heat treated and powder coated

I'm dropping the 3.6 for a rebuild soon and will take pix and make measurements, unless I can find one in my archives somewhere. Have to be next week though... traveling I am.