I never really checked if the webers were fully opened at WOT. Guess what, they are not!

A little less that 1/4 travel is left to get the throttle plates fully straight. DOH!!! It accelerates fine but it could accelerate faster!!!

Drop links from the crossbar to the carbs are nice & tight and are in sync @ 1000rpm and also at 4000rpm, so i'm figuring it's either some ajustement in the rod between the crossbar & the bellcrank on the engine or the rod between the bellcrank on the engine and the tranny or the ajustement on the throttle cable end at the tranny.

I'm just not sure from what end i should start to playing with the linkage It seems like i'm running out of travel at the bellcrank on the tranny.

Any basic things i should check before playing around with the linkage???

TIA

Marc-André

Okay... are you sure the linkage is limiting your travel?

Forgive the stupid question: Have you checked the stop beneath your gas pedal?

-Rusty

Disconnect linkage, try to open carbs by hand.....if they open completely, there is some adjustment needed someplace. The pedal has a stop like Rustboy said....grind it off....if not there, there is some slck someplace that needs to be taken in.

Last resort...the cable may be too long, you can lengthen the cable housing to compensate...

I hate to disagree with Zois, as he has much more experience than I.

However, I wouldn't grind it off. Readjust it, if need be. Cobble together a substitute if you can't find a good replacement board.

That stop has a function. It prevents your foot from forcing the carb linkage past where WOT is. It prevents damaged linkages and bell cranks.

YMMV
Rusty

Welllllll.....it worked on 3.6 install......

I'm sure you're right, Mike. Maybe the pedal travel on your car required that the stop be the floorboard itself.

Each of our cars is a bit different.

I took the end of the crossbar were it connects to the rod going to the bellcrank on the engine/carb manifold and pulled on it.

Webers go to full open.

There seems to be some slack somewhere or the geometry is off between the throttle cable and the bellcrank on the tranny.

When i press the pedal, i can feel alot of resistance in the last part of the pedal travel. Like if it wanted to bend the rod between the tranny & the engine. So it doesn't seem like the pedal is limiting the travel. It's binding somewhere else.

I'll go outside during lunch & report the position of the different components. (crossbar, bellcrank at the engine end and bellcrank at the tranny).

Might be more obvious after looking closely on what is going on.

Marc-André

marc'-andre,

If I'm remembering correctly, this is a conversion car right?

what type of throttle linkage/cable/bell-crank are you using.

I've heard repeatedly that many 4 cylinder cars try to run a 4 cable from the front of the motor and do not have the correct mechanical setup to open the carbs fully. For this reason most people push the rear style (stock) bell-crank throttle cable set up.

this may not apply to you... just a though.

brant

I still think you need to check for a stop under the pedal....you don't have to take it ALL off, mine needed too, but pull the pedal and if there IS a stop and take a 1/2 inch off at a time...untill the full opening of the butterflies are achieved....

I don't have my car here... so I'm going from memory.

If you have room between the stop and the pedal, and the linkage is binding... then you may need to put some slack in the cable, either at the transmission or at the pedal cluster.

Here's another question for you: Assuming you have a stock /6 linkage... When was the last time you checked bushings throughout the linkage? That wouldn't solve your problem, but fixing them now will prevent you from doing this adjustment process all over again.

-Rusty

Yes it's a conversion.

I'm running a /6 cable with a bellcrank at the tranny end like the 914-6 setup.

I know, there is alot of linkage & rods involved in this setup.

1. Cable pulls on the bellcrank at the tranny
2. Bellcrank at the tranny pull on a rod connected to a bellcrank on the manifolds
3. Bellcrank on the manifolds pulls on a rod connected to the crossbar
4. Crossbar actuats the droplinks going to the carbs, opening the throttle plates.

Lawrence, good point on the bushings. They are all brass bushings but i'll check them again to rull them out. Forgot about that one!

Marc-André

Can someone please explain WOT? I asked my mechanic about the position of the butterflies and he told me that they shouldn't reach vertical. Mine are about 3/4 open with the pedal on the stop. If I adjust my stop down lower, all I do is bend the actuator and the rod rubs on the floor board.

Thanks,

I've never checked WOT on my carbs.

I have no business driving the car at anything near WOT.

That's BS If they just won't go near vertical, probably
one of the segments of the linkage is adjusted wrong. There's
several places where you can make it shorter or longer, and
there is finite travel on certain places, like the thingy just under
the right carb immediately comes to mind.

My feel of the pants recalled getting better acceleration when nailing it with the tail slapper in there.

As i played with the linkage especially at the tranny when i did the tranny swap for a sideshifter, I never paid attention on what was going on with the throttle plates... I starting thinking that i might not be at WOT. I never really bothered about this before doing a Drivers Ed.

Correct me if i'm wrong, but if the throttle plates aren't vertical, you are loosing some acceleration??? If this wasn't an issue, why would they bother with the slide valves.

I took a look at the linkage & bushings during diner.
All bushings are ok. I think i need to adjust the geometry of the bellcrank at the tranny end. The 'tab' where the cable is attached is orientated a little too much to the front so when the pedal is at around 3/4, it can't go down anymore and the rest of the pedal travel (3/4 to full) is trying to pull on the bellcrank instead of bringing it down.

I hope i'll find some free HP!

Marc-André