Why would this happen do I need my valves adjusted or is this common
No issues other then that ,car runs strong ,fresh gas ,oil changed an valves adjusted
Approximately 2500 miles ago ....
Should I be concerned ???
Should I add some marvel mystery oil to the crankcase???
It could be overrun which can be caused by too much advance in the timing.
That could be either tuned up wrong, or the advance plates inside your distributor are sticking.
That could be either tuned up wrong, or the advance plates inside your distributor are sticking.
Sounds to me like the car wants to be driven longer and harder.
It's not ready to be turned off.
It's not ready to be turned off.
Yeah it could be driven more often
It runs like a god damn prizefighter " Bill Bowerman ".
So I can honestly say the 914 design is potentially as good as a 911
But imagine if the design was matured over decade's inside of 5. Years ..
..................................................
And yeah I'm sure the distributor needs tlc
It struggles when cold and now seems to be struggling when hot
And can someone clarify the term
It's sticking
As in it s grease sticking or ????
Electro magnetic corrosion ??????
Huh ?
It runs like a god damn prizefighter " Bill Bowerman ".
So I can honestly say the 914 design is potentially as good as a 911
But imagine if the design was matured over decade's inside of 5. Years ..
..................................................
And yeah I'm sure the distributor needs tlc
It struggles when cold and now seems to be struggling when hot
And can someone clarify the term
It's sticking
As in it s grease sticking or ????
Electro magnetic corrosion ??????
Huh ?
5 cents of grease.
There are two advance plates in the distributor that have fourth year old grease in between that now acts like glue when hot.
You remove them, take them apart, clean them and re grease them.
This is really standard car care stuff.
You need to work on it at least once per decade.
There are two advance plates in the distributor that have fourth year old grease in between that now acts like glue when hot.
You remove them, take them apart, clean them and re grease them.
This is really standard car care stuff.
You need to work on it at least once per decade.
The fuel should get cut off instantly when the ignition switch is turned off, as should the spark. Engines can sometimes run for a few seconds without spark (especially if there are nice hot carbon deposits in the combustion chambers) as long as they have fuel; that's why carbed cars can experience run-on. An injected car should not be able to do that.
I wouldn't freak out about it if the car otherwise runs fine, but I would keep it in mind as a symptom when troubleshooting any problems. There may be a bunch of fuel loading up in the intake somehow, or you may have electrical feedback through the ignition circuit for a little while, or some such.
--DD
I wouldn't freak out about it if the car otherwise runs fine, but I would keep it in mind as a symptom when troubleshooting any problems. There may be a bunch of fuel loading up in the intake somehow, or you may have electrical feedback through the ignition circuit for a little while, or some such.
--DD
QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Jan 4 2015, 12:47 PM) 
The fuel should get cut off instantly when the ignition switch is turned off, as should the spark. Engines can sometimes run for a few seconds without spark (especially if there are nice hot carbon deposits in the combustion chambers) as long as they have fuel; that's why carbed cars can experience run-on. An injected car should not be able to do that.
I wouldn't freak out about it if the car otherwise runs fine, but I would keep it in mind as a symptom when troubleshooting any problems. There may be a bunch of fuel loading up in the intake somehow, or you may have electrical feedback through the ignition circuit for a little while, or some such.
--DD
Cold start injector stuck open or leaking could provide enough fuel to keep it running.
1st step is to determine if it is overheating.
As DD says if power is truly removed from the ignition, very hot heads is the only way it can keep running.
If it is not, then it is an electrical issue.
The spinning alternator can continue to produce voltage and keep the system running even with the ignition switch off, but this means you must have a fault somewhere in the system.
First step is to use a Voltmeter and see if voltage gets removed from the coil when the key is turned off.
Try this after running when you shut it down.
Hook up the meter: + to coil + (IGN), and - to battery negative
With key off, there should not be any voltage at the coil.
Turn key ON, voltage should appear at coil (but might not if points are closed ~15% chance).
If no voltage, bump the starter to open the points and check again.
Start car (will definitely have voltage there, but it will appear lower than batt voltage while running).
Turn off car, voltage should go away from coil immediately (again, engine might stop with points closed, so voltage could be present but masked - try more than once)
If car keeps running with no voltage at the coil, then run on is due to hot spots in heads.
As DD says if power is truly removed from the ignition, very hot heads is the only way it can keep running.
If it is not, then it is an electrical issue.
The spinning alternator can continue to produce voltage and keep the system running even with the ignition switch off, but this means you must have a fault somewhere in the system.
First step is to use a Voltmeter and see if voltage gets removed from the coil when the key is turned off.
Try this after running when you shut it down.
Hook up the meter: + to coil + (IGN), and - to battery negative
With key off, there should not be any voltage at the coil.
Turn key ON, voltage should appear at coil (but might not if points are closed ~15% chance).
If no voltage, bump the starter to open the points and check again.
Start car (will definitely have voltage there, but it will appear lower than batt voltage while running).
Turn off car, voltage should go away from coil immediately (again, engine might stop with points closed, so voltage could be present but masked - try more than once)
If car keeps running with no voltage at the coil, then run on is due to hot spots in heads.
My 2.0 did that and and broke a valve.
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