How important is it to replace brake rotors with just a slight bit of ripples on the surface?




I'm pretty sure you can't turn cross drilled rotors, so I will have to buy new.

I'm swapping out the squeaky track pads with some street hawks.



Matt

I'm pretty sure that a good machine shop can turn those, so long as they're within specs for another turning with what's left.

PS - IIRC it's the grooved & cross-drilled ones which are hard or impossible to turn, & then re-cutting the grooves + turning costs more than new ones! ERic Shea at PMB will know for sure, so contact him, & he sells the rotors if you need them.

You might talk to Eric Shea at PMB about Porterfield R4S street/track pads for your 914. A lot of members here use & like them.

But you'll need to do the bedding procedure at his website, in order to break them in & loose any squeal & reduce dust - as well as for best braking.


Tom
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They don't look that bad to me; Don't look like they're worn too much. Maybe they look worse in person but don't look that bad.

The rotors on my 930 look like that and there's no way I would change rotors at $150 a piece for that little wear.

Thanks for the replies so far. My car is running Wilwood superlite 2 calipers, so no one makes a brake pad for them but Hawk. ( That I could find)

Matt

Matt I was able to buy EBC pads for wilwoods at Pep boys website a couple of years ago they were on a close out. IIRC they were less than $10 a axle.

Bob

Porterfield makes 'em....google Porterfield brake specialist.......no affiliation. Be sure to let them know if your calipers have the back bolt with a spacer or not....
Their pads are 'way thick....I love 'em.

If the spec thickness isn't under and it doesn't shake under braking (indicating warped rotors) you may be able to resurface those using a brake lathe but not cutting the surface- use a drill with a sanding disc of 80 or 100 grit. While the rotor is spinning, apply pressure on the surface with the spinning disc. You'll take off the burned spots and freshen up the surface for your new, more streetable pads.

They're not toast until they look like this.

As long as there are no cracks, they will work fine. After the bedding (if done correctly) new pads will conform to the uneven surface.

Do inspect them closely for cracks, especially around the venting holes. If you see any sign of cracking, replace them!

Awesome input guys! Appreciate it.

I will check for cracking in the AM, might have to run up to parts heaven tomorrow if I need new rotors. Can't find anywhere else that has Porsche parts in the bay outside dealers.

Well I took Andy's suggestion and there was indeed cracks forming at the cross drill locations.

Decided to install new rotors:(I want this car safe)



Also took the cathartic exercise of cleaning up the inside of the wheels.

Safety first.

I've seen what happens when a compromised rotor explodes under heavy braking. Not pretty ...

I came across a company years ago a SEMA that sold rotors with radiused crossed drilled holes. The idea was to eliminate the sharp edge of the hole that would get hotter and start cracks.

I hear that cross drilled rotors only really benefit significantly in wet conditions. If there is any truth to that, no use in buying them for my application.

It seems to me that more surface area causing friction would stop better....assuming no high heat racing conditions.

They do indeed help in the wet, but the holes also help release the gas buildup under repeated heavy braking that actually tries to lift the pad, I.E. drilled rotors on sportbikes and even my Hog has em.

Wow Bling! What did you use to clean up the inside of the wheels?? They're beautiful...

Well, I had the Fuchs powder coated which gives them the clean look.

I have have had great luck with cleaning wheels using Poorboys detail products:

http://www.poorboysworld.com/spray-rinse.htm

Just make sure you don't use it on uncoated metals.


Matt