okay as some of you know ( and some of you who dont care ) i built the radiator support frame, and welded it to the fire wall. then i sealed the frame off to the fire wall with sheet AL. now the radiator sits in the frame and get bolted to the top ( with grommets ). the first pic is the frame welded to fire wall with the shouding in place, i still need to make the scoop for the bottom though.

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another shot of the shrouding on the drivers side from the outside

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okay here is a pic of the radiator mounted to the frame

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okay second to last, the engine bolted back in to the car with the radiator in place

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last pic ... front of motor showing the pully clearence to the radiator

sweet....hope it works, you might be proving a bunch of people wrong.....of course I guess for the V8 guys, it does not matter due to the lack of space

Pulls air from under the car?

Looks nice! I wish I had room to do that

Oh man, that avatar...

It woulda been cool to make a frame that holds the engine/radiator/battery/etc. as a unit.. then you could drop the engine without disconencting any hoses. After you got it out you could set the engine on a skateboard, bolt a couple wheels to the trans output flanges and ride it around

QUOTE (McMark @ Feb 4 2005, 03:17 PM)

Pulls air from under the car?

yup, using a spring loaded kydex scoop. spring loaded so if i hit a speed bump it will rotate out of the way, and kydex which is a plastic that is stiff enough to hold its shape but can bend very easily. kydex is used to make gun holsters as well as many other items.

the scoop will be about 2 inches below the floor pan and 28 inches wide, or about the same size as the air deflectors. speaking of the air deflectors does any body need a set. the opening of the area feeding in to the radiator is 5 inches by 28 inches, the scoop just helps the air go the right direction at speed

QUOTE (bondo @ Feb 4 2005, 03:22 PM)

After you got it out you could set the engine on a skateboard, bolt a couple wheels to the trans output flanges and ride it around

oh ya a 180 hp skate board

Sounds like it's gonna work perfect for that 4. You could probably do the same with those W6 engines. They're supposed to be pretty short.

Will you be running a fan, either turned by the engine or electric? My experience with a V6 in my VW Bus was that you could be stopped or going slow only so long before the temp goes up. I had no problems after I mounted an electric fan on the radiator.

QUOTE (scruz914 @ Feb 4 2005, 04:02 PM)

Will you be running a fan, either turned by the engine or electric?

1200 cfm fan controlled by the suby wiring and an overide switch

one thing i have not said anything about is the suby needs the heater core lines hooked up, if they are not hooked up the thermostat does not open, so i plan on putting in a motor cycle radiator with a fan ( the reason for using a radiator from a motor cycle is the cap will help in bleeding ) . in the summer i will just let the fan blow through the heater core ( motor cycle rad ) in the winter i will duct it through the stock heater tubes for heat. so i will be gaining an addition 100 square inches or so of constant air flow for cooling.

Pretty slick Scott , it'll be interesting to see what kind of temps you'll be running. How's the clearance for the air cleaner/intake boot? Looks kind of close, but that just may the the angle of the pic.

Kevin

COOL
Keep us informed. Maybe take a pic from under the car to show that clearance to road.
WBR
Joe

scott, you're my hero! i'm gonna start saving my pennies up for a suby motor!