My 1970 with a california re-assigned ID number is ready to go back on the road after nearly 5 years of restoration. When I bought the car it had a California re-assigned ID number because of a falsified VIN. About 10 years ago there was an investigation by a Fresno police officer that used a Fry's method of recovering the real VIN. His investigation was almost successful, he identified and recovered NINE out of TEN digits. So the car is one of 10 possible.
If the group can help by supplying any of the missing known numbers that would greatly enhance the chance of restoring the true ID number of my vechicle by process of elimination>
This is the partial number: 4702905_48. Anybody that has that third digit could respond. If I get lucky, REALLY lucky, I'll have 9 responses. Any help is appreciated.

sorry, but that's not a valid VIN

it has to start with 47029xxxxx

So your Fresno officer's prior work either has the "0" in place #5 wrong, or else the "0" & "9" in places #5 & #6 respectively are transposed.

Unfortunately, this then may also reflect negatively on the accuracy of the other digits.

What it the "Fry's method" to which you referred that he used?

Have you also checked for the VIN stamped into the passenger side front wheelhouse top inside the trunk?

... &/or for the VIN plate on the inside face of the right front headlight housing in the trunk &/or the plate in the windshield's driver A-pillar?

... &/or for the Chassis No. on the front jamb of the driver's door &/or stamped in the rear floor of the rear trunk?

The Chassis # may be a way to trace the VIN too.

But I'd assume as a stolen car or whatever with fake VIN, the thieves or fraudsters probably ground them all off & removed all I.D. plates.



Good Luck!
Tom
///////

Assuming that the 09 are simply switched we get

4702905_48


Now, looking through our VIN database there's only one that we can eliminate:
4702905848


As stated above, the chassis number might help to narrow down the VIN range, so finding that would be helpful.

This link might help you finding the chassis number:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/sources/actio...elpchassis.html

Thanks Andy:
My mistake, the number the Fresno
officer wrote was: 4702905_48
I had the 5 and 9 switched.
One down eight to go. The ninth one is mine14.

Tom, Frys is a chemical etching solution that uses ferric chloride and HCL acid that is used when the fraudsters grind off the serial or in this case VIN numbers. All the plates and numbers were missing on my vehicle. It was remarkable that he recovered 9 out of 10.
I will check out the chassis lead too.
BTW he had the number right, I had transposed the "5" and "9".

Ok I found the chassis number stamped in the trunk: it is:
1239531
Now what do we do with that ?
Click to view attachment

IIRC, we could say, that your car was built on March 18, 1970

this would reduce the possible VIN range

somewhere in the area 04700 ~ 05900 (apporx. - not in detail)

so, Andy might be right, that 90 was simply swithcet to 09

your VIN should beginn with 470290xxxx - possibly 4702905_48

Did Karmann ever keep records of chassis numbers matched with VIN's ?
Silly question, but does anyone know when the VIN is actually applied , like at the very last stage of completion or if the VIN was actually stamped at the factory?
914 VIN numbers look like they were applied with a cold punch tool by hand, at least my two other 914's looked that way. Kinda sloppy.
Is there a way to contact the old Karmann-Porsche factory ? I'm assuming this question probably has been asked before.

The chassis number is Karmann only, the VIN is a VW-Porsche number. You might be able to match the VIN to the chassis number via Porsche, but I seriously doubt it through Karmann. If I'm not mistaken, Karmann has filed for bankruptcy & might not be around anymore.

From Wiki:
Bankruptcy[edit]

Family strains of the third generation of Karmanns contributed to bankruptcy of the company.[7] Falling demand along with other financially connected businesses forced the company to file for protective insolvency on 8 April 2009. Insolvency practitioner Ottmar Hermann followed some of the approach seen with the earlier insolvency of Woolworths' German business, and the Karmann business is emerging with little independence, but supported by significant cash investment from long-standing customer Volkswagen.[8][9]

On 8 April 2009, Karmann filed for bankruptcy protection due to the sharp decline in demand for cars, and the company's financial obligations.[10] Volkswagen revealed on 24 October 2009, that it had made an offer to acquire long-time partner Karmann.[11] On 20 November 2009 Volkswagen said that it would buy Karmann's site at Osnabrück, to produce a new vehicle. On 4 November 2010 Valmet Automotive signed an agreement to buy Karmann's roof-component sections in Osnabrück, Germany, and Żary, Poland.[12] Karmann's North American operations were sold August 2010 to Webasto Group.[13]

Thanx for explaining the Fry's method! I learned something new!!

Not with Karmann, even though VW has taken over the Karmann plant since the BK noted above, since the records will be with Porsche/PCNA now as microfilmed to digital of the original paper "Kardex" build record.

Here's what I'd suggest that you try...

Call PCNA Customer Care 800# & select the one for the Certificate of Authenticity (COA) & tell them that you're trying to straighten out your 914's true VIN & will then want to buy a COA - which you'd want to help you document out your 914's true VIN & then reregister it under that with DMV .... I'm assuming here!

They may want you to send pix of the Chassis # & of the Fry's method of the result (if you got that, or of the officer's documentation given to you).

So IF - and a BIG IF - if Hans or Franz or whomever did the Kardex at Karmann back in `69 or `70 when yours was built also happened to take the time to enter the Chassis # on the Kardex equating to your car/VIN -

.... then PCNA ~ IF they're in a cooperative mood (another big if) ~ can use the process of elimination which your asking here to go thru the 10 VINs to match the Chassis # - since only one will match a particular VIN.

Now PCNA is notoriously wrong on translating the option codes & just about anything else on the older Porsches of ALL models, & notoriously lazy in researching much of anything - or in correcting THEIR OWN ERRORS on your COA ~ even when you send them correcting information & documentation (personal experience unfortunately).

So you may have to go up the ladder to supervisors & managers ... & then may still hit a dead end "NO" (as I did) .... and then call or email their current GM of Customer Care to explain the problems & get some action - as I did & it worked!!

So patience, persistence, time, effort & pix & documentation MAY find you the answer - but they'll have to go beyond the lazy easy path, & then actually look at the photos (microfilm-to-digital) on their little computers to see if they can match the Chassis # to one of 10 VINs.

If you can narrow down any by using the VIN data base on here as SirAndy suggests above, then that can help your cause that at least you've tried at some time & expense to solve it for them.

BTW - I contacted the VW Museum in Germany & got a COA for our 88 Westfalia correct the first time at 1/2 the cost - while it took 1-1/2 years, many calls & emails & absolutely a-hole supervisors & managers of the COA/Customer (non-)Care dept. at PCNA for 2x the price to get 3 incomplete incorrect COAs (no 2.0L & wrong interior color due to mis-read code # by them) .... & got no help nor correct COA until I called therir Custome CAre GM personally - who did give me an apology, got the COA corrected & refunded my full fee! So they can sometimes figure out how to serve customers, although others have not been so fortunate in getting their COAs corrected, & I basically had to research & document all of the info. before they would change it anyway!

FYI - The Chassis # translates by first knowing which year it was built in - yours could be 8-12/69 or 1-7/70 (or process of elimination by the weeks counting out too late in the year), then get a calendar for that year to start counting weeks (which is what Wolfgang did for his post above)....

1239531

XXY95ZZ

XX = week of that year - start with week #1 even if only on 1/1
> & note what month that is in

Y = Day of Work Week 1-5 = M-F

95 = Karmann Plant (all 914/4 & -6)

ZZ = Car # built on that day

96 = Add 100 to above (97 = add 200)

Keep us posted as to how it goes!

I do not believe the chassis # was recorded with the VIN. However a better method would be to see is the paint code and engine # can be used to ID the correct VIN.

You guys are over-thinking the whole chassis number thing.
The reason i linked our VIN database is so one can take his chassis number and compare it to the other chassis numbers already listed in the possible VIN range.


12.3.95.31 = Wednesday March 18, 1970

Since 470.29.05848 is already accounted for
and the chassis number for 470.29.05859 is 12.4.95.80 which is one day later
and if we assume they made about 150+ cars per day during that period,
my best guess for his VIN is:

470.29.05748


Now, if you have some money to spare, get the COA for 470.29.05748 and do as Dave suggested and compare the paint code and engine number to your car and see if it's a match.

Dave & Andy - I think he said his Karmann badge with paint code was gone too, by the thieves.

He may be able to to see the original paint somewhere on a hidden part of the car.

Engine case # would work to eliminate - if it's still the OE case "matching #" & if it was recorded on the Kardex (I knew a guy back in the 1970's when you could look at the real Kardex/microfilm) whose 71 /4 had neither the transaxle case # (not unusual) nor the engine case # - so he passed on getting his COA!

I've also seen some COAs list the Chassis #, which is why I suggested that route.

With Paint code (if available), case # (if available) & the chassis # + Andy's narrowing down by eliminating 2 VIN possibilities & an educated guess at the likely VIN - he may be able to tie it down.

CA DMV will require some sort of "official" documentation from the mfgr. to issue the original VIN back to the car AFAIK. So the COA would fulfill that, which is why I suggested it.

It sounds like $120 for the COA (less any PCA or other discount) is probably not a huge expense - relative to what work they've done for that Fry's method VIN recovery, let alone what DMV will rape him for!!

BTW - Wolfgang/Gustl gave him the 3/18/70 Chassis # translations up above - & I was just explaining how he did so - & you did - for his future reference, &/or for anyone else reading this later & wondering how.

Good Luck, whatever you do next!
Tom
///////

Thanks for your input everyone: the Karmann door jamb badge with matching chassis number in the trunk and paint code L60e did survive the thievery. L60e, Irish Green, is the true original color. None of the other badges survived. The motor looks like a replacement from a 1973 since the code is EB 009180.

I want to thank everyone who is helping me find the identity of this formerly forgotten 1970 orphan. Where do I contact the organization that issues the COA ?
Additionally I will pursue Tom's suggestion to contact VW-Porsche to see if the digitized microfiche can link the Chassis # with the VIN. Looking forward to driving it soon at our local events. Having the proper pedigree would be the icing on the cake.
Next project is a yellow 1974 but complete with matching non-altered VIN, Karman badges, paint codes and window tags.

Paul - I also replied to the PM you sent to me, instead of the other 70 914 owner in the VIN data base.

Also, I wasn't suggesting going to VW-Porsche with the Chassis #, but to PCNA for a COA (Certif. of Authenticity) to track down the missing VIN & get the official Porsche COA as your document to take to DMV.

Since you have the color & chassis # & whatever police report on the VIN resurrection proceeds, & a now even more limited list of possible VINs - hopefully they can look at those remaining 7-9 VINs to match either color &/or chassis # - if listed on the source Kardex - so insist that they actually look at those now digital microfilm pix of the Kardex's!

PCNA is the US arm of Porsche - Porsche Cars North America in Atlanta, & you can go to the Porsche website & to their Porsche Classics section, & on their you'll find the email, phone, forms, etc. for a COA.

Due to your special situation & needs, I'd call them as the first step, & you'll probably have to ask for a supervisor or manager if the first help tech doesn't know, isn't sure or just says no.

They may need permission of the higher-ups anyway to help you in your situation, but I've heard of some other 356, 550 & early 911/912 owners having to do similar things to reconstruct their VINs - so I think it's been done before at least once!

You've got my email & cell at that PM, if you need it.

Good Luck!
Tom
///////

Thanks Tom, I will contact PCNA today

One more question:
Lets say we do properly identify the VIN # .
To me the ideal final step would be to have the VIN door sticker and window tag "replicated" and the front inside fender cowl restamped.
I'm not sure who has the permission and authority to make those tags and do the actual stamping. DMV, Porsche, CHP, a 914 world vendor, me (the owner) ?Any thoughts ?

Contact Socalandy for a replica door compliance sticker ...

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=241884&hl=

Paul,

You forgot the VIN plate on the right inner headlight bucket/box in the F trunk (VIN is at 4 places on 914s).

You'll have to check with DMV, CHP, your local Police/Sheriff's dept. & the one who did the retrieval of the partial VIN, etc. to find out what the law is in this regard, & who can legally do it.

I know that they used to sell 914 "bodies in white" (new body shells) for cars severely damaged in an accident, & remark them as you want with the original VIN, & do so with parts removed in repairs where the VIN occurred (really both for any & all cars).

Maybe McMark (Mark @ Original Customs advertised on here) &/or one of the other members on here with CA based shops can say more definitively.

IIRC - DMV allows reputable body shops to replicate the VINs in conjunction with their repairs, so that would probably be the way to go, unless you check with DMV &/or CHP & they give other info &/or say you can with proper paperwork.

Finding the right stamping font may be hard for the fender one - but you can probably find something close.

Socalandy on here sells the repro door VIN stickers, so PM to him.
... He may also know about who can stamp them from his 914-6 rebuild - if he had to cut in that inner wheelhouse on his?

The easiest way to repro the VIN on the headlight box would probably be to find another junker `70 914/4 & flatten out the VIN & date, then re-stamp in yours.

.... unless you can find someone on German eBay or something selling the blanks (there is somebody selling blank Karmann plates on there).

For the windshield frame tag you'll probably have to use a generic one of whatever the resto & body shops use, unless you also find blanks of those as above, or can flatten & restamp the appropriate numbers.

For all of the above, you'll need both documentation for the correct VIN (a letter from Porsche/PCNA stating that they've researched & reconstructed it for you in addition to the COA will help + the police reports, Fry's thing, etc.) - PLUS you'll want to photo-doc anything where you're modifying another VIN plate to re-stamp as yours.

Cheers!
Tom
///////

Back to chassis numbers:
First two digits are weeks,
Third digit is day of week
"9" is Karmann plant
"95"xx, production less than 101 cars for the day
"96"xx, production less than 201 cars for the day
"97"xx, production less than 301 cars for the day
last three are unique serial # 6xx or 7xx

Are there any instances when the third digit, the day of the week
anything BUT one through one through five ? Monday through Friday ?
Any Saturdays, i.e., = 6 or Sundays, i.e., =7

AFAIK - No.

Others can correct me if I'm wrong, but a 6 or 7 would be obvious!

Remember, this was Europe with long standing trade unions & mandatory month-long summer shut downs for Vacation!

And don't forget the free beer at lunchtime!

The Unions fought hard to have that included in the contracts (no joke here).

Yes ... & it shows in some of the late-in-the-day 914 builds too!

I think that's why that other Orange/Black early 73 2L John L (avidfan) used to own has Chassis dated about 10 days before mine, but his got a 9/72 VIN sticker date -

While mine was a 8/72 sticker date with an 8/31/72 Chassis # - a REALLY FAST 1 day build!!!!

Actually, that has nothing to do with beer.


Chassis numbers, VINs and US build date decals have no direct relationship.

The chassis numbers were stamped at Karman to keep track of the *raw* bodies produced.
They were *not* in sequence with the VIN numbers assigned to the finished cars and they were *not* in sequence with the "build date" on the US compliance stickers.

The US compliance decals were added after the cars left the assembly line, just before the cars were loaded on the trains to be shipped to the US.

Oh Geez Andy .... take a joke as a joke!

If you want to get "Teutonically Technical," then I'll bring out my German side & also point out that there were *NO* *ONE* *DAY* Builds either!

Did you like my alliteration? ... also a joke!

Have a Good Lunch!
Tom
///////

I didn't think there was a 1 to 1 relationship to chassis numbers to VIN's either. I don't know how far the Karmann supply plant was from the VW-Porsche assembly plant, but I would imagine that the unibodys had to be transported and unloaded, moved around on the dock then the assembly plant, then marked at VW for certain assembly 'packages', thereby creating some discordance between chassis date and consecutive VIN numbers.
The reason I asked about the 3rd digit in the chassis number is that I found 1 member VIN # 4702905764 with chassis date listed as 1279585, making it a Sunday production chassis. Maybe an error on his part, but I've asked for clarification on that members part too, since I'm the nube here. My other 914, a 1974 has a chassis number that is actually sited with 6 digits, 219532, which I'm assuming is actually 0219532.
I'm just trying to get a better feel about that relationship before I call PCNA, and ask for some research on the missing digit. "7" has a good of chance as any of them... But maybe so does 0,1,2,3,4,5,6 and 9.
Anyway the Germans had it right about the beer, but like 914 owners, at least the American ones, we really perfected it.

Actually, all the /4 cars were completely assembled at Karman. Only the /6 shells were shipped to Porsche for final assembly.

While they didn't care much about chassis number order when moving shells into final assembly the shells were still produced in batches and chassis numbers usually are more or less sequential.

Also Paul,

The same thing was happening with all of the 914 parts as they grabbed them willy-nilly, such that the engine & transaxle case #s, etc. won't be in any sort of sequential order with the VINs, chassis # etc. That really wasn't unusual to the 914s, nor Karmann either, as all auto makers pretty much did it that way.

However, to clarify, once those numbers are all linked up to one VIN, then those are the matching #s for that car.

So if any of those show on your car's Kardex & COA, then those are the correct matching #'s sought after - assuming there is no writing mistake when originally written on the cards, nor reading it back to make up the COA.

Socalandy with the yellow wide body 914-6 that's a past COTM here last year, & is pictured at my 918 topic at the PCA Zone 8 Concours last Sat., has an original 914-6 940xxxx engine case # ending in ...12, but the Kardex reads ...11 (or visa versa) - so something is amiss there, even though the sixes were assembled at Stuttgart (not at Karmann, who shipped the bodies to Stutt.).

I think it's less likely that that a PO just happened to find the case # one digit off in sequence - but it could happen - than somebody had either mis-written the case # on the Kardex - or that the PCNA person has mis-read it! .... or it could be a completely wrong case # on the Kardex.

Unfortunately, PCNA won't let us have a copy of the actual Kardex - why I do not know - but if they bring out their computers with the digitized Kardex microfilm records to a Parade, Tech Session or some other event where they let owners "look at" their Kardex or other base records, then one could perhaps see if & where the error could be!!

Also of note, at the beginning of a new model year, it was common to use up any old parts from the prior MY - even if the new MY had a change to them, so you'll get a mix-n-match of some older parts on a newer model car.

That happened with my early-73, which originally had the chrome-style 70-72 MY window cranks & door handle surrounds - rather than the all black ones of 73-76 (the OO/PO & I had to change them out when the original cranks broke over time & use); & mine also has the "early" 70-72 rear single-bleeder calipers & the "late" 73-76 double-bleeder front calipers.

I know what was on my 73 2L from the start, since I'm the 2nd owner & I knew the original owner couple too, & they sold it to me at just over 3 years old. It sold new 11/6/72, I first looked at buying it & did a PPI in Nov. 75, & it officially sold 12/26/72 after all the loan & DMV paperwork cleared - at almost 38 months old!

Now we're BOTH well over 42 years old & I have another 20.5 on the 914!


Cheers!
Tom
///////

Back at the chassis number. I see that a Scott Rose has chassis number according to the data base of 1219535 [Monday, March 16th, 1970]. and VIN # 470.29.5764.

My chassis number is 1239531 [ Wednesday, March 18th, 1970], yet the proposed suggested VIN number is 470.29.5748. So my chassis was #31 on Wednesday, his was #35 earlier, on Monday of the same week.
So a question:
So did the Germans take St. Paddy's day off from work [Tuesday March 17th, 1970)] ? No car production. Like it is an official holiday ? I know they have huge celebrations in Munich every year.
... like the Germans need another excuse to drink beer.
Sorry for the long delay, 2015 was a poor health year for me. Now healthier, I'm determined to get my 1970 finished, on the road very soon and (hopefully) the original VIN number restored.

NO Paul, the VIN sticker # & date were often out of order from the Chassis #'s date of production, & both were only loosely correct - odd for that predilection for Germanic perfectionism!

My 73 is VIN dated 1.5 weeks before another member's former 73 2.0, while the VIN # itself & chassis production dates correctly relate to the earlier production on his earlier 2.0.

Plus mine works out to be a 1 day production between my 2 chassis & VIN numbers & VIN date - which makes for an interesting talking point & nonsensical bragging right as: "the world's fastest built 914"!

I didn't re-read your entire thread heree before, but you should have the VIN stamped on the top of the front passenger fender, at a plate on the passenger headlight bucket box - both inside the front trunk; as well as the plate on the driver's windshield A-pillar & the VIN sticker on the driver;s rear door jamb.

So maybe post good hi-rez pics of all of the 4 which you still have on your car to see if anyone can make out the missing digit.

Also - if you have the current &/or prior CA plate number(s), then if you go onto the Cal DMV website, under their forms section, they have an "Information Request Form" that you can fill out & send in the appropriate fee to get them to trace all prior owners in their Sacto microfilm/microfische dead files (IIRC it's $20 per record x how many requested). If they have the records, they'll cash your check & send you records of the owners' info (if they returned the info release) or just general info. (if not agreed) - or they'll return your check & form if nothing is in their files (e.g.: if the car was unregistered in any state for more than 7 years, then they dropped the records storage).

Good Luck!
Tom
///////

Did I miss it or did you call PCNA and check out the COA numbers. Not sure how many Irish Greens would have been made within that 9 numbers you seek. That could potentially eliminate a good amount of them though.

Did he try the Frey method from top and underside....I saw a ground number you couldn't read from the top side but was easily read from underside .... it was a 76 retitled to a 72 in CA..

From the original CHP report, he did NOT apply Fry's solution to the inside of the fender well.
I can feel the "embossing" on the inside of the fenderwell, and can see a partial number there. I tried to use tracing paper over the area to get a reverse image but there wasn't enough detail.
I think I might try something pliable like clay or playdough to see if I can get more detail. I can see plainly the reverse image of 470 xx0xx4x when I flash an ordinary flashlight back and forth.
If the playdough doesn't work, I think I will experiment with a magenta filter (filters out green = color of the car)and black or red laser lights to see if I can get more contrast to bring out the missing digits, especially #8.... THEN I will be in business. I just joined PCA so I can pursue Tom and Andy's recommendations, but if I can sleuth it out on my own before asking for the COA, I'll feel that I've done my best research and can get a CHP officer to re-verify and attest to any results that I can produce.

Ya''all know what I'm talking about here. It's no different than any other part of the restoration of our 914's. It's the pain, penance and pride of doing it yourself.
This weekend:
Firing up the rebuild and tuning it from the stand I fabricated:
Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment

After a long slow process of contacting PCNA and seeing if my paint code L60E Irish Green, matched the possible Vin codes 4702905X48, There was no match.
So I removed the paint underneath the fenderwell with "Aircraft Remover" by Rustoleum.
I Photographed the VIN: It looks like this:Click to view attachment

Sure looks like the last numbers are X48, cant really see much detail on 3 digit in, maybe a 5 or 9. Remember these are reversed and upside down since we are looking at the inside of the fenderwell.

Then I traced the numbers with Aluminum foil and just pressure. Ten traces to be exact: All of them appeared to end in 46. With a little scrutiny you can see the "9" in the third digit in from the right

Click to view attachment

and

Click to view attachment. Ten traces but none of them looked like 48 even though the photo looks like 46.
I don't have an "8" on either of my two 914's to compare to see what the exact shape of an "8" is. but the foil clearly shows a "6" in the last digit.
I called PCNA today asking for paint codes for 4702905946. and guess what:

BINGO:

They also supplied a build date April 1970.
My Chassis code = 1239531 which is March 18,1970.
I ordered my COA today to make it official.
Now begins a formal CHP re-investigation so I can get the VIN properly re-stamped and re-registered and on the road again.
Luckily for me I have two good friends that are CHP officers.

Good Job ...

Shirlock Holmes aint got nothing on you man !

Reunited and it feels so good !!
(It feels like 1970)

The (California) CHP Auto Theft and Recovery Division has recovered my original Headlight bucket tags and A-pillar tags from a 1973 914 in Bakersfield where my 1970 car was located 20 years ago.
The other owner had my 1970 tags on his 1973, but his shock tower chassis VIN number had not been touched or altered.
The investigating officer discovered the discrepancy between chassis VIN and aluminum VIN tags and removed the tags and returned to me yesterday.

Click to view attachment

CHP had him re-register his vehicle as a 1973 with his true VIN # (47329255936).

His car had been registered with my VIN for almost 20 years.
No criminal charges were filed.
Here are my original tags, ready to be affixed to it's true owner.


Not sure if I'll ever know the reason why the VIN's were switched, but both car's are no longer orphans and have their true pedigree's restored.

This info is too late but doesn't all 914s have the VIN hand written on the underside of the dash board top? I am amazed you got so much help from the police on this. I thought once they find VIN tampering they start crushing cars without hesitation.

Brett

Brett, Not all... my 1970 did NOT have the hand written VIN underneath. My 1971 parts car had the (secret) VIN and well as my 1974. I suspect Hans or Franz at Karmann-Porsche didn't always perform that task 100% of the time. Careful record keeping was more rare in 1970 than is required today.


Although they did originally tell me that crushing a car is still done, the CHP auto theft and recovery division prefers to restore the original VIN if they have good reliable information. In California they can also issue you a "blue tag" which gives the car an alternative new identity.

Additionally if the car was a reported stolen vehicle, you can be held financially liable to reimburse the original owner or insurance company if a loss claim was filed.

I managed to dodge all those bullets. I put on my "polite hat" when dealing with the bureaucracy and was patient and.... I was very fortunate in more than one way, and luckily for me I have a few friends in CHP.

Congrats

Ok, I am nearly ready to order a compliance decal from SoCal Andy for my
1970 Irish Green (original color) 1.7L.
Andy has two choices available : Silver or black.

I say Black was the probably the original color.
The Karmann paint/chassis sticker is black as well.

What says the group ?
What colors were the silver colored decals commonly associated with ?

I'm pretty sure they were black on 70-73, & my 8/31/72 built 73 2L is black.

Maybe a 70 original owner can step in to confirm. .... Paul/neinverzen??

You may also be able to confirm by going to Jeff Bowlsby's Classic 914 website & go to the plates, labels, stickers subsection; &/or at the p914.net .org .com website(s) (you may still have to manually change the links to .com or .net IIRC since he's still rebuilding it).

Good detective work on the stamping BTW!


Tom
///////

It depends on the color of the car. With Irish Green, the compliance sticker probably was silver.



More info about the sticker color here: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=25020

.. and here: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...43102&st=20