Have read through the thread:

Front Wheel Bearing Service

My car (1973) does not have "slots" such that I can drive out the inner bearing race (see step 11 in 5th post). If I remove brake backing plate I can most likely drive the inner race off.

But (also) in steps 13 & 14 it seems like the inner race is being driven into the rotor, and it appears to me that one would drive the inner race onto the stub axle, then place the rotor over that and then proceed with outer bearing?

Help?

Unbolt the hub assembly from the spindle and remove it. Only way to get the seal and bearings out.

Hard way:
You can use a drift to get the races out (no slots). You will nick the inside of the hub and will probably need to file it down since the hubs are soft -will leave a high spot or two, three. If you are lucky the new races might seat true.

Easy way: Go to HF and get the $25 metric race installer/ remover set. You will need to turn one adaptor down to fit the small race. You can do it in a drill press with a file.

Try really hard to use a PRESS at this stage versus "pound in the bearing races with a hammer". The hubs tend to gall when pounded on.

I find myself making tons of extra money because THEY chose the " pound in the bearing races with a hammer" method.

After they used the pound method they wondered where the front end vibration came from. They spend more money on balancing but that did not fix the vibration. They then replaced tires but tires weren't the problem. Right about then I ask did ya "pound the races in with a hammer"?.

Easy way sounds good to me. Off to HF in the morning...

When doing a search I find using google better than the search function here.
Just enter "914world" followed by your search question.

I bought the HF bearing press set, and I did not have to modify any of them to make them work.

I also pounded the races in. How can an aluminum bearing seat tool cause any damage to a hardened steel race?
I did not see any evidence that anything ever even touched the race surface, much less cause any damage.

Curious.

Force will get the old race out of the hub. You should try to make that force even on all edge surface using a race driver .
When you install the new race, freeze the race and heat the hub and use a race driver.

I strongly suggest to replace both the race and hub/brake disk at the same time to avoid this dilema in the near future again.

Real easy way is to buy new rotors with the bearing already pressed in. Yes without a press it's a hard job.

Inner bearings came off the spindle with a slight tap from a chisel. So I should be good to go. Races in the rotors all look and feel just fine, I was having a problem with just one side, and caught it early so no damage to race/rotor (but the bearing is toast).

Replacing wheel bearings in all four corners. I figure if there is any small chance I will drive this thing from north central KY down to Amelia Island, all corners need to be in known good condition.

Had success removing the passenger side rear wheel bearing (slide hammer, BFH, drift method), but drivers side axle bolt is fighting me. So it will soak in PB Blaster all night and I'll get a bigger extension/impact wrench.

Different areas to watch out for.

On the flat where the race seats is from removal. The "impacting tool " catches the edge of the hub and leaves a high spot on the flat. These are easy to fix using and old race cut (so its smaller) and valve grinding compound or lapping compound to knock down the ridge.

Galling on the side where races where pounded in or did not go in straight. They are known to shave or gall material which ends up in a burr under the race preventing it from seating flat.

I've seen so many of these I always ask 'notice any vibration or balance issue"?
When I show someone the burr they always go ah ha. If you don't know what you are looking at you wont see it.