Looking for opinions on gently improving the paint on my survivor 914. The paint is beautiful original paint but as you would expect it does have swirl marks and a couple very light scratches that, if removed, would make that original paint job pop even more.

Frankly I'm hesitant to turn the car over to someone I don't know. I did that once and the car came back with a burn-through on the edge of an air scoop.

So...I also have heard that orbitals can be iffy. If I take my time, can I get slight scratches and swirls out by hand? And if so, any recommendations on products and method? I can tackle it a panel at a time and go slowly. Helpful hints and input appreciated.

Steve

I've purchased (but not yet tried) the 3M Paint Restoration System to try on my 964. My research indicates that it is one of the better ones. I'd really like to know how the pros do it.

Steve,

First - This post should be moved to either the O&H or Garage Forum - or both. This classifieds is only for cars for sale & mostly nobody with knowledge on this will see it in here. SirAndy or one of the Admins at the bottom right of the page can move it for you, like that other one you had in here originally.

Around here in SoCal the really serious concours folks are going to the top paint restoration services (not repainting - resto) - in order to first have their paint depth checked with a scope those guys have, then their using some very high quality dual action buffers (not orbital per se) & various compounds, etc. - based on how much paint they have left to work with from that scope check. They're also using clay in that process. Even new car owners are doing this to start off with a glassy surface.

Then once the pro's have done the resto, then the owners can easily keep it up. It's not cheap though, but is definitely worth it for your special survivor car - if the swirls are series enough (they should be able to look at it & advise you if you can take it out by hand). Being RED - you probably also have at least a little bit of oxidation in that single stage paint, since red is about the worst color for oxidation (it turns it a bit whitish in the paint).

You just need to get strong recco's from some of the local Peachtree Region's Concours folks - maybe try getting together with some of them on a weekend to advise you & show you techniques & recco's for the services. George may know some too, & who is the Peachtree Concours folks to talk with.

There is also some techniques & products info in those documents links & in the articles on the Zone 8 Concours which I gave you the link for previously. There is also a PowerPoint you can download from one of our Concours Prep & Judging Schools that you can download & go thru. IIRC the Pelican website's forums also has some good concours prep articles to look at as well.

You should also see if there is a Concours Preparation &/or Judging School offered by PCA around there to attend, & they often will also have one of those paint resto services there to talk &/or do a demo. taking your 914 there is possible, but not required to attend (at least for our out here).

Also - a BIG finishing tip from our Bev Gould out here, is to only do your final detailing wipe down in one direction lengthwise to the cat, so that the sunlight won't catch on the streaks as much (she's been concoursing for 40 years). This is for that final detailing spray, or final wax finishing.

I still have my old school can of Classic Car Wax (95-100% Carnuba) & low grit car polishes, but I think I'll start mine too with a pro-prep after the resto paint has cured enough.

You've got my contact info e & cell if you need any more info. Maybe another local GA CW will contact you off this & offer theirs to help you as well.

PS - no to orbitals - get a good dual action, or if by hand - be very careful with your technique & using clean cloths - since you can still swirl, & you may be able to take the scratches out yourself by hand, but that may require using 800-1000 grit, then stage up 1200, 1500, 2000 grit wet-dry automotive finishing sandpapers - to get it back to finish, then the polish & wax steps. It depends on how confident you are in your skills vs the depth & extent of the scratches. I've done so with scratches on our DDs' paint & repaints, but not sure that I would tackle yours myself, with all original paint!

PSS - And stick with one of the top brand product lines offered by Porsche, BMW, MBZ, etc. dealers & specialty shops. I don't know about the 3M kit mentioned above, so ask someone in your local concours group. You can also call TC's Garage tcsgarage.com to talk with Bev & Tom Gould about technique & product lines - they carry P21 IIRC, but they'll tell you about the other reliable ones too. Just tell them I recco's you & about why your 914 deserves special care.

Good Luck!
Tom
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My first recommendation is to take it to a professional. Find out who the Cars and Coffee guys use, find out who the dealerships use.

Second recommendation :

http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/griots...ks&refType=

http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/paint+...ks&refType=

http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/6+inch...ks&refType=

http://www.griotsgarage.com/category/videos.do#

They used to have booklets and DVD's with all the how to info in them. Might want to ask if the still sell them. I have a BUNCH of their stuff, and at one time had a stack of the booklets and DVD's.



oh and get and admin to move this thread. You'll get a lot more responses

I'm a 911 guy, but last year I bought a 914 - a '72 that's extremely original and 59k miles, including all original sunflower yellow paint. I've been working the paint on this car a bit at a time, to make it as perfect as possible.
This isn't rocket science, and swirl marks/light scratches are fairly easy to handle, by hand - just be patient and learn.
gauging the paint is essential; my car apparently had been polished/worked before; it shows 2.5 mils down the sides, and 3-4.5 mils on the lids - so I've had to be careful, and I cover the edges when I'm working an area.
Too much to convey in a simple post - but email me at davidphonograph@hotmail.com, or call me at 918 607 9782. I can get you started with products, techniques/tutorials, etc.
I'm not an expert at this - but I know enough to be dangerous, and have several good body/paint guys to consult; and yes, the easy way is to keep asking around till you find someone really good at this, and use them - it likely will cost a whopping $200 or so.

David

http://www.autotraderclassics.com/car-arti...t+1-65310.xhtml

Thanks! looks like a goos read.

Thanks to those of you who have responded.

Hesaputz I am thinking like you....I'd like to slowly try to do this myself. The paint is not terrible. Very little if any oxidation but a fair amount of swirl marks. I read the Autotrader Classics article...interesting and helpful read.

I started today with claying the car. Again, it was pretty good...not a lot of contaminants came off in the clay except for the small area that was repainted in the front quarter due to a scrape. The clay took the over spray right off.

Next will be to to a generous dose...or two...or three of Maguiar's #7 to condition the paint per the Autotrader article. At that point I'll stop to re-asses whether I try to find someone or do it myself. I'm tempted to try to work on a small area to see if I can improve the swirl marks. I did buy a Flex dual action polisher but will do what I can by hand.

Appreciate any helpful hints.

Email or call me - I'll tell you where to go next, based on how the paint looks after cleanup and a couple of #7 treatments. I learned from that video, but I took a different path when I got to this point.

Thanks. will try to call you today or tomorrow.

take this to the garage. use the PM feature.

+1 on the Griots Garage stuff. I've used their products with good results.

Go the the Meguiar's website. They used to have a "hotline" where you could send pics, ask advice. Of course they'll set you up with their stuff, but it may be a good place to gather information.

BTW, I've seen some of the best detailers (with multiple pebble beach wins) use Mothers/Meguiar's/3m products, the trick is the right application for the job.