OK, the steering wheel came off easy, but I can't get the ignition switch housing out

All the bolts and screws (that are visible to the naked eye), and the big snap ring are out - what am I missing? (I already read the Pelican tech article) http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...tion_switch.htm

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Mark try one of these

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I know, I know I'm no help

I have not forgot about the Rotisserie.

post photo of the other side of the steering shaft so we can see what you have done.

do you have pick from other side? and what year, mine is a 70 and it was a pita to get out, but then i could not put key in as po's son pulled most of the tumbler out, short end of long story it was a night mare.

There is a single 6mm Allen head bolt that holds everything on with a clamp. Remove that bolt and everything should pull forward and off of the steering shaft. Then you'll be able to remove the switch.

Sorry, it's a '75. I guess I thought people would see the EGR & CAT lights on the dash and figger it out.

I can't see any additional fasteners, but when I try to pull the column cover and switch housing rearward, there's definitely something that's keeping it secured in place.

The Pelican article mentioned inserting and turning the key to unlock the steering shaft lock on '75/'76 models, but that didn't cure the problem either

More pix:

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75-76 is a completely different animal. Let me check the FSM. I think you have to disconnect the entire column, take it out completely, remove plastic housing and use a pick to push the side button on lock housing.

Ok, checked the factory shop manual. It says to pull out the 6mm allen bolt that you have already done. Disconnect w/s wiper hoses after taking pressure off system. Remove the C clips on column and the bearing. Pull entire assembly with the plastic housing off. Then take
off the plastic housing. There may or may not be a hole to use pick to release lock assembly. If no hole you will have to drill as Bruce said.

You need to pull the whole ignition housing, remove the plastic cover and drill a hole in just the right spot to depress the spring that holds in the ignition switch. I have one at the shop that has been drilled and can get you a picture tomorrow give me a call tomorrow to remind me. What are you trying to fix? Or were you just bored and wanted to take things apart.

I have not removed mine before, but the manual also shows removing that circlip.
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I have completed this job on several 75s and 76s. Remove the black "c" clip and everything will slide off. Still need help just PM me.
Paul

If I was just bored, there's plenty of more important tasks I could be doing.

What prompted this? ... I was having an intermittent starting issue, a wobbly steering wheel, and only one speed on the windshield wipers, so decided today was the day to check it all out.

I checked the (4) 6mm Allen bolts in the column support bracket under the dash, but they were all tight. Found out the 6mm Allen bolt going through the bottom of the plastic housing was loose - tightening it up took a lot of the wobble out, but not completely.

Of course, the ignition switch seemed to work fine every time I started it up today ... so I may not need to replace the switch after all ... but being 40 years old, I'd feel better with a new one in there if possible.

The large bearing circlip has already been removed, as well as the 6mm Allen bolt on the bottom. I know the small circlip that's still on the shaft will eventually need to be removed as well, but the housing is currently only moving about 1/4" (max)

There is a full presentation on where to drill the hole to get the ignition switch assy out in here somewhere. I had to do mine to get the switch out after removing the lock assy.
Sorry I can't find it at the moment. Good hunting.

I assume you disconnected the plug on the back side? If so then install the key and turn to the on position and the pull forward on the ignition switch. Might be different on 75 / 76 cars? I think I have a 75/76 column in my stash. I will see what it takes to get it out.

And an FYI for others out there, on the earlier cars (in my case a 71) if the tiny hole is drilled thru the column shroud in the precise place, one can depress the spring-clip under the cowl, remove the lock switch as a complete unit, clean, rekey, reinsert and be down the road without taking off any other part of the car save the steering wheel for convenience of access to drill the hole. The pot metal is soft so it has to be done with a sharp bit and an offset drill chuck to miss the tach.

Keep in mind, that every unsavory thief can thereafter use a 10d nail as a means of doing the same thing, then insert a small flat-blade screwdriver into the switchless cavity and take off with your beautiful ride.

The good news is........... that when the switch is out of the car, the thief's screwdriver will loosen from its thieving slotted perch in the switch cavity, then fall on his right leg right a millisecond before the steering column lock engages freezing his arc while he is in a banked turn at 93MPH on the 405 freeway overpass 102 feet above terra firma - thereby forcing your well insured teener to breech the rail, then plummet to the ground in a hideously fiery crash / .............the only survivor being the small flat blade screwdriver.

Moral of the story: Fill all venerable holes immediately after use to preclude any and all nefarious activity therein.

Hey Mark, I believe Slits has a "how to" posted in another forum here.

I changed mine on my 75 a few months ago. It's a pain, but if I remember right there is a release you have to push close to the switch, on the left I think. You have to use a thin tool like an ice pick to be able to push it. Put the key in and push the release and the switch will come out. Sorry I did not keep better records. Hope this helps.

Rick

Thanks for all the tips and suggestions guys.

Finally got the booger off this evening

The final conclusion was that the plastic bushing inside the shaft bearing was stuck to the steering shaft really tight. Joe (Porschef) stayed with me via PMs and suggested using a penetrant (sp?) to loosen it up. Well, Liquid-Wrench and some more hard yanking did the trick

Actually, there's no need to remove the 4 bolts from the under-dash bracket unless you're planning to remove the steering shaft.






There's also another (larger) circlip that secures the steering shaft bearing. You'll need to remove that circlip if you're planning on replacing the bearing and/or installing a new metal sleeve (if the plastic bushing inside the bearing is worn out).






If the screw to remove the switch assembly from the housing isn't located on the front as shown in this pic, it may be on the rear of the housing (it is on mine).

Excellent!

Now, how is the hub supposed to be oriented? (which clock position do the two prongs go - 12 o'clock, 3, 6, 9, other)?

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Never mind.

I looked at the back side of the stock wheel and see that the tab (turn signal cancel device ) on it was facing to the right (3 o'clock position), so I guess the pins on the hub will need to do the same ... that is, if my stock wheel was installed correctly to begin with?

Now, if I could only remember where I last saw that damn Porsche horn button

Hi, this is great so far and i am at this stage myself. My local racing organization demands that we remove the steering lock. I'm assuming I need to remove the lock assembly to do that but not sure how. I see there is a notched bezel around the lock assembly. I have tried unsuccessfully to remove it. Is this a threaded ring that simply turns off counterclockwise or is there some other secret? What kind of other surprises am in in for when doing this? There is a little trap door on the side which look like it need to be removed to pull the steering lock? Any support would be appreciated before I break something.

Thanks, Joe