Which is the preferred choice for a first 30 minute start on a completely new rebuilt engine with a Raby cam and lifters? Penn or Gibbs break in oil. Mineral oil or synthetic?

Bradd Penn, SAE 30W Grade1 Pen-7120 .

Joe Gibbs, 5-30 BR30. or BR10-40.

http://penngrade1.com/Products/High-Perfor...eak-In-Oil.aspx


http://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/br30-br...-oil-15781html/

I am sure that Jake would recommend the Joe Gibbs Driven. You should ask him though. I trust the engine builder on their parts.

I used Jake's break in oil.

Did you follow my suggested first engine startup sequence (edited with Java2570's suggestion):

1- Dont install the pushrods (cranking to prime with pushrods installed will wipe away the cam lube you put on the cam & lifters)
2 - remove the sparkplugs
3 - install a mechanical oil pressure gauge if you have one.
4 - do NOT fill the oil filter with oil before installation

4.1 - Install oil filter but dont tighten it, leave it loose enough that air can get out
4.2 - once oil begins to leak from the oil filter, tighten it.

5 - crank the engine until oil pressure peaks then keep cranking for as long as you are comfortable to get oil through the whole system. (Dont overheat the starter - ~10 seconds at a time, then cool off)
6 - check oil and top off if required
7 - reinstall pushrods & set valve lash (with Jakes pushrods, cold lash is zero)
8 - reinstall spark plugs
9 - proceed with engine first startup & follow Jakes cam break-in instructions

First off:
I haven't sold any parts in 18 months, just engines.

We switched to Driven in 2011 after Brad Penn changed their formulations without telling us. Since 2008 we've been the European oil developers for Joe Gibbs Driven, and the products just keep getting better and better.

In winter run the 30 wt BR product for best results.

European and not USA?

Are the Europeans getting more additives we cannot get due to EPA regulations?
Is the Euro version of the oil better, worse?

Can we buy the European oil via the Internet somewhere?

I think he means European cars. Joe Gibbs primarily is focused on good old American V8 engines.

Thanks for all the replies. I am going to use the Joe Gibbs break-in oil 5w30.

Did the Brad Penn lead to any failures or did y'all catch it in time? Is the Joe Gibbs stuff available through L&N?

Not sure about L&N but I order the Joe Gibbs (Driven Racing Oils) from Jegs.

If Joe Gibb's Driven oil is now preferred, which oil is recommended for street use with a type 4 engine: DT40 5W-40, DT50 15W-50, or HR 10W-40, HR 15W-50? I assume 15W-50 for summer, but which type, DT or HR?

http://lnengineering.com/products/lubrican...oducts.html?p=2

I use DT-50 in California. It doesn't get real cold here. HR is more for water cooled V8 hot rod motors. I would stick to the DT.

LS 30 for cold climate operation with temps less than 40F
DT40 for mild cold, up to the low 70s
DT50 for everything hotter than that.

Internal clearances and oil pump selection do impact this.

The HR oils are fine if you want a conventional. I use them after break in oils, before going synthetic.

Wow, now I'm thoroughly confused.

I have BP 30w break in oil that I was going to start with. Is all the "no pushrod" stuff really necessary?

I'm here to learn, so tell me what I need to know before I start up my 2056 for the first time?

You dont have to remove the pushrods.
But I had to crank my engine for a good 10 minutes (in short bursts) to get the oil system to prime the very first time, so it is your call if you want much lube left on the cam & lifter when it first fires.

I have also heard of filling the oil pump with grease during assembly to prime the system faster but havent tried it.

If the system were to prime immediately then it wouldnt be an issue.

When I did the break in run for my stock 2.0L, after not getting my pressure up after a couple of minutes of short cranks....I slightly loosened the seal on the oil filter and cranked a few more times. After that, tightened the filter back up and the pressure came up pretty quick. It made a little mess but worked pretty well....

That is a great suggestion as it would relieve the back pressure from the rest of the system and get the filter filled sooner.
Just DONT fill the filter first if the system has never been primed.
If you do that, then the pump (which is pumping AIR at first) needs to push the oil out of the filter, with air, before the pump gets primed.
I edited my list above with this suggestion

I can't claim to be that smart....I think perhaps it was Jake or the Cap'n that recommended to loosen the oil filter to help build pressure faster.

I never pre- fill a filter, air can't push oil very well. Loosening the filter can help, but can also put air into the system ahead of the oil.

I have heard also that starting the engine out of the car (914) is a way to identify any build/leak issues…..

Yes, but the difficulty comes when you need to crank it to start it.
Hooking up power and gauges is the easy part.
To crank it you need the starter which means you need to bolt the tranny on which means you cant use the regular engine stand which means you need to build a dedicated stand yada, yada, etc.

I was going to go that route, but when I looked over and saw the car sitting up on stands, I figured it was much easier to stick the engine up in there than to build a stand.