What's the best way to vent the case on the 3.0? I know there's a pipe coming out of the top of the engine, but what should I be connecting it to?

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It connects via an "expensive" hose to your oil tank; there is a connection pipe next to the fill spout.

Yet another thing to buy oh boy!

You will find that if you just put hose on it and secure it with a hose clamp it will leak and drive you crazy because when the hose clamp is tightened it will distort the pot metal spout.

Its best to machine up an aluminium extension and glue to the spout with high temp epoxy and connect the hose to that.

Cheers,

The engine vents to the oil tank then there's another hose that comes off the filler neck that goes to the factory air cleaner (circled in red). If you are not using the factory air cleaner then you need to vent it to an aftermarket breather tank.
I posted pics of my factory 6 oil line arrangement. Yes, the fabric line is not cheap.

You can run it to a catch can/breather also.

So the line that comes off the oil tank filler neck is the one that goes to the airbox?

I want to make sure I have mine setup correctly...not that it'll be done anytime soon.

Yes. A catch can between the oil filler line and engine intake is suggested. Some attempt a catch can directly from the engine, but oil velocity is highest here and a catch can will fill much faster. The oil tank is a better transition path. Do not attempt to seal this path as some have tried. Crankcase blowby must be vented otherwise oil leaks will develop.

After the catch can, some vent to atmosphere via a small, filtered breather cap, but suggest gas fumes recirculate back to the intake. Early 911 engines are dirty enough through the exhaust. No need to donate add'l unburned gas fumes to the atmosphere.

Sherwood

The case vent goes straight to the oil tank:







The filler neck vent goes to the air filter or a catch can, depending on your intake system.

Ive been fighting an oil leak at the hose for a year now, been through different hose material, different hose clamps, even put some dirko on the hose.. and the damn thing refuses to seal. This sounds easy enough to make.

You can get colored heater hose cheap on ebay. This is what I'm using engine to oil tank. Then tank into a Gatorade bottle like Andy.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HEATER-HOSE-1-ID-R...=item2ede5cf6e0

Just make sure that whatever you're using is oil resistant ...

Originally I was just planning to clamp the breather on to the neck where you add oil, but now should I be putting
some kind of a catch bottle between the neck and the breather?

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Yes, I would run it to the intake or a catch can. With just a filter there you might get oil on everything.

914-6 GT used this...

http://www.pbase.com/9146gt/oil_overflow_bottle_bracket

Thanks Armando

Here is mine!

Interesting - what will oil do....seep through or eat away at it?

I wouldn't say it's the best way but has worked well for me so far
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Leakage at the breather nipple on the engine should not be a problem.
Start with a new hose. And a narrow hose clamp, not a big beefy thing from a radiator hose. Push the hose fully onto the nipple till it bottoms.
Install the hose clamp at the end of the hose, but..... fully on the hose.
The clamp must be below the steel ball that is cast into the nipple.
See attached photo.
Leakage comes from old hard hose that has had the clamp incorrectly tightened on top of the ball.
The nipple should have had a conventional rim rather than the troublesome ball.

If the hose material is not oil resistant, it can break down and you end up with contaminant in your oil. Not good ...


Also, with regards to the catch can, i drilled a few vent holes in the top of my bottle so vapors can escape.
Which is also the reason why i placed it right next to the air filter. The holes point straight towards the intake filter and any vapors will be sucked in and burnt.

I usually clean out the catch can every other month or so, it does collect some sludge on the bottom over time.

Starting to hook this stuff up as well, Howard thanks for the adaptor tip, I'll cut one out soon and add pics to this thread.

Why not make a catch can that drains back into the case and vent directly into the hole already cut out into the K&N rainhat?
I totally hate improperly vented systems or the cheap vents like in post#13, they make one fuch of a mess in the engine bay.

As far as oil proof I'll use Parker Pushloc hose for this.

I've been working on 911s since 1973 and I've NEVER seen that happen.

The Cap'n

Heater hose isn't rated for oil vapor, especially for heated oil vapor.

The Cap'n

In my experience, the bottom of the catch can is usually full of oil-water mix sludge, something i would most certainly *NOT* want back in my engine.

OK, you could build it so the drain back was extended enough to trap any moisture, much like a gas tank. Clean out the can once a year.

I have been doing this for years on type one and four engines with no ill effects and I've always vented to the intake, why would a six be any different?

I know that the discussion is about where to vent the case breather to, but I've found the solution to the leaking hose... get a real case breather cover, ie. off an early aluminum 2.0L. These pop up on ebay once in a while, and mine doesn't leak at all anymore...

For starters, i have 16+ quarts of oil in my system, which means i get a LOT of moisture that boils out of the oil when the engine gets hot.
In turn, that moisture rises from the oil tank and gets trapped around the top of the filler neck and down the vent into my catch can.

I routinely have to wipe off ounces of white(ish) oil sludge from the inside of the filler neck and the same stuff collects on the bottom of the catch can.