Okay - this is my last plea for solutions before I have to drop the engine and replace the alternator on my 72 teener.

I've checked the tightness of the belt for possible slipping - and it's fine.

Replaced the Voltage Regulator and still get the alternator red idiot light on my panel. The battery is shot because the alternator is not charging it. I put a jump on it and it runs fine, but when I take the cables off - it will run until the engine dies (radio won't work, and only left headlight unit will come up).

Is there anything that I might be missing - or is there a sure fire way of testing the alternator to identify it as the "actual perpetrator?"

As usual - I value your 914 wisdom.

same thing happened to me....VR died. Go figure.

I am no expert here, but I do know that you do NOT have to drop the engine to replace the altenator.

Not an easy job, but doable in an afternoon.

good luck

Don't need to drop the motor.

whats a alternator? Just kidding, don't lynch me

Check all your connections, including ground straps. Also, a toasted battery may not take a charge so your alternator may be fine. A completely toasted battery is like an open circuit... if it's that bad then disconnecting the jumper cables while the engine is running is like disconnecting the battery, which may fry the diodes in the alternator. Moral of the story: Always test the charging system with a known good and charged battery.

Bondo - the battery was just fine. I drove the car for a while with the alternator light on because when the car hit 3K RPM the light went out, but that only lasted for a day or two.

After that the battery wouldn't/couldn't hold a charge - I drove it like that because I was waiting for a voltage regulator to arrive via mail.

Can you guys clue me in on how to remove the voltage regulator without having to drop the engine?????? It's a small space to work in and the engine padding that is on the fire wall is only about 3 to 4 inches away from the engine.

thanks once again.

I am assuming you meant to say altenator????

if so.....

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...alt_replace.htm

QUOTE (martinef1963 @ Feb 11 2005, 03:56 PM)

Bondo - the battery was just fine. I drove the car for a while with the alternator light on because when the car hit 3K RPM the light went out, but that only lasted for a day or two. After that the battery wouldn't/couldn't hold a charge - I drove it like that because I was waiting for a voltage regulator to arrive via mail. Can you guys clue me in on how to remove the voltage regulator without having to drop the engine?????? It's a small space to work in and the engine padding that is on the fire wall is only about 3 to 4 inches away from the engine. thanks once again.

The voltage regulator is on the relay board.

QUOTE (martinef1963 @ Feb 11 2005, 04:56 PM)

Bondo - the battery was just fine. I drove the car for a while with the alternator light on because when the car hit 3K RPM the light went out, but that only lasted for a day or two. After that the battery wouldn't/couldn't hold a charge - I drove it like that because I was waiting for a voltage regulator to arrive via mail. Can you guys clue me in on how to remove the voltage regulator without having to drop the engine?????? It's a small space to work in and the engine padding that is on the fire wall is only about 3 to 4 inches away from the engine. thanks once again.

dude...you really, really need a Haynes manual

buy me now !!!!

Easy fix on my 1.7L. Paid $70 for a rebuilt and went on my way. I believe the only thing you need to remove is J-pipe and some of the components hooked to that. You will also need to remove the front-left side of the engine tin. Also inspect the power wire that connects to the starter. Better yet, replace it. You may find that its cracked where it comes through the engine tin. It will make contact with the tin and spark if wire insulation is cracked and wires exposed. I learned this the second time around. I did it in 2 hours with no experience on cars. Very dirty if it is original. It was my first real repair. Do make sure everything is tight.

BB

The forward-facing screw that holds the left-front piece of engine tin on is a real bitch! At least, if it's one of the FUCKING RETARDED slot-headed screws. The ones that only the 2-foot-long screwdriver fits in properly? (Yes, you only have about five inches of room to get at that screw, see the problem?)

I am so glad I replaced mine with Allen-head screws. Of course, those will probably cause problems that bite me in the ass somewhere down the road, with my luck...

--DD

Ikeyzer - I wanted to eliminate a possible bad voltage reg. so one of my friends sent me one - that is why I was waiting for it.

I want to thank all your inputs and I will get down there and do some more tests before I delve into the eng. drop scenario.

I do have a Haynes, but it surely doesn't cover the ways of the "trail and error" bunch we have in this forum.

thanks again - I will keep you posted.

Like the others have said, you DO NOT have to drop the engine to replace the alternator!!! Nor do you have to remove any engine top engine tin, Just some of the piping for the cabin heat. It's not an easy job, but it is doable in a couple of hours.

The best way to test the alt is volt meter on the batt before cranking and after cranking reading should climb 1 or 2 volts. If you notice no differince turn on the lights and wipers to put a load on it. With load the volts should not drop. Another way not recommended is with running motor pull a batt leg off just for 3sec if the motor dies the alt is not putting out at all. Check the ign switch and fuses for power to the regulator and alt. I know your alt light is good as it lights up but I think Ive heard of a bad bulb causing alt troubles as it needs the resistance through the bulb to energize the charge cycle??

QUOTE (DJsRepS @ Feb 27 2005, 05:13 AM)

The best way to test the alt is volt meter on the batt before cranking and after cranking reading should climb 1 or 2 volts. If you notice no differince turn on the lights and wipers to put a load on it. With load the volts should not drop. Another way not recommended is with running motor pull a batt leg off just for 3sec if the motor dies the alt is not putting out at all. Check the ign switch and fuses for power to the regulator and alt. I know your alt light is good as it lights up but I think Ive heard of a bad bulb causing alt troubles as it needs the resistance through the bulb to energize the charge cycle??

Bad Advice... Do not pull the battery cable while the engine is running. Doing so will fry the diodes in the alternator quicker than you can reconnect it.

Get a good Digital Volt Meter. If the alternator is working, then you should see about 14.4 volts at the battery posts.

Alternators are cheap, and I would suggest that you buy a new alternator harness too. One of our club members sells repro harnesses that are very good.


Also, check the bulb in the generator light. It has to be the correct bulb or the alternator will never start to charge. The bulb is a set resistance, and if it's wrong, the alternator does not get exciter current to the field coils. Don't shortcut this bulb with one from the bubble packs on the shelf at the local FLAPS. Get the absolute factory correct bulb from a parts house that knows 914s.