I'd like to replace the ball joints and tie rods on my '71 - 4. Everything is stock. I've never done this before. Are there any good threads for this that explain simple and clear. Any tips or tricks to make this as easy as possible. I need all the help I can get. Thanks, Mark

For the nut holding the ball joint on, heat, PB blaster, pipe wrench and cheater to remove it. It's one tough nut to take off. Buy new nuts and lock plates.

Buy turbo tie rods from Lemforder or other quality manufacturer.

All ready have the parts, bought from PMB long ago. I just need to do it. But there are usually tips, tricks and proper tools that make everything easier.

As I recall, I'd wished that I had left the arm bolted up while fighting to remove the ball joint nut (dismantled parts car). If you have a good vice setup then it may not matter much. An impact chisel gun was needed in my case.

Leave the arm bolted up until you get the ball joint removed. Also, leave yourself plenty of time and have a heat source available (e.g., propane torch) if things are being stubborn. For removing the ball joint from tie rod end I tried to use the tie rod end puller from AutoZone but it kept slipping off until I used it in conjunction with the ball joint fork so I could get enough "purchase." Resist the urge to bang with a BFH. Slow, steady, increasing force seems to work better.

I went through the removal process taking off the front suspension on my project car a few weeks ago. That was my first time, and maybe next time will be quicker.

Oh, and take pictures of your effort and post them for us, Mark. It's on my "to-do" list for my daily driver and I think we need a good thread describing this process

Get one of these tie rod puller/pitman arm remover tool.
You need a fairly small one.
Autozone will lend them to you.



Mark the length of your tie rod before turning all the nuts, so when you install the new one it will be reasonably close in length.

You may need some heat on the balljoint/strut bolt but don't overheat the shock area.

The big bottom nut under the balljoint may need a smack with a hammer/chisel to get it moving. Don't bend the control arm.

That's the one that I could not, for the life of me, get to stay on as I tightened it up. I did get it to work when I put the ball joint separator "fork" underneath as it gave the puller something more to grab onto.

For the Tie Rod just use a hammer. Not on the rod. Turn your wheel so you have access. The tie rod is tapered where it goes into the arm. It's made this way for a reason. Hitting the end of the arm from the side where the tie rod comes through. A couple good hits will pop it right out. Messed up a tie rod first time I did this swap by hitting the tie rod itself. Never got it to budge & jacked the tie rod up good. Of course I was replacing it so wasn't a total loss. Felt like an idiot when someone explained how to get it off. By popping the side with a hammer it forces it right out. I believe the good Cap'n pointed it out to me when I posted.

On your tie rod just measure it's length from where it bolts into the rack to where it goes into the strut rod. You get it as close as you can. Then when everything is on do some measuring to get alignment right. I've always had it good enough I didn't need to take it in for an alignment after. Still alignments are cheap so it's worth taking it in later. So I'd make an excuse at some point to hit the tire place to be sure.

On your ball joint if your replacing you don't have to worry about messing up the boots. You need a special tool to get the ball joint out of the a-arm. There is a big washer held on with a retaining pin first. Then you use the special socket or wrench to get that nut off that hold it in the a-arm. I borrow the socket from a friend then used an impact air too. I can't think of a better way to do it. Using the socket with a big breaker bar will work. You have to hold it in place from the bat tom & it wants to just pop off. Impact made it simple. Once out of the a-arm remove the bolt or pin holding the ball joint in place. Us a pickle fork to pry it off or just smack it with a hammer. Your replacing the ball joint so you don't need to worry about it getting screwed up