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last337
So all tin is finally off and got impeller and shroud off now cleaning off everything and when the impeller came off i noticed quite alot of crank walk. I looked up the spec and its .005 for tolerance. I looked up a few other threads on it and I'm a bit confused. One thread was talking about shimming the flywheel or something but I'd assume too much crank walk would be caused by a bearing being bad. Can someone explain this to me? See pics for about 1/4" crank walk.

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Ductech
Isn't the type 4 thrust controlled by the shim stack on the back. under the flywheel.

In the beetle world which is what i remember most as i only did one type 4 build back in the day. The shims at the back of the crank under the flywheel are what control the thrust play. Its one of the last few steps of your motor build up.

It is possible that a DAPO didn't bother measure the end play of the crank when last breaking into that motor

What brought you this far into the engine?
Ductech
Btw the correct procedure for setting end play should be by means of a dial gauge and i did it at the flywheel cause i could bolt down to a engine/trans mount
last337
OK well that makes a bit more sense. Is there a procedure somewhere on how to set that? I have the the motor out while I had someone do the hellhole and long repair. It seems this motor hasn't been out in years so I am taking the opportunity to clean things up. When I pulled the motor I pulled the tranny and flywheel and clutch and I guess I just didn't notice spacing in there. I was a bit worried I'd be rebuilding the whole motor which I'm not opposed to. I was just hoping to fix everything else and drive it a bit before having to do the entire motor.
zambezi
Flywheel has to be on to measure end float. Thats probably why you have so much right now
TheCabinetmaker
Put the flywheel back on and torque it to 80 pounds. Then measure end play with a magnetic base dial indicator. If it's out of spec you'll need to remove the seal and the three shims behind it. Then reinstall flywheel, retorque and measure again. Deduct the 3 to 5 thousandths from your measured endplay and use a combo of three shims to get your corrected measurement. Then reinstall flywheel without seal, and measure again. Then repeat the process till you feel confident you have it right. I stop when I get the same in spec measurement twice in a row. Then, I remove the flywheel again, and install seal and flywheel, then measure one more time. If it's the same I'm done.
last337
I am still a bit confused on this and cant seem to find a tech article on the process. Does anyone have any links? Also, I dont have anything other than dial calipers. Can I use the end to measure the depth/play?
Olympic 914
Here is an article that outlines it pretty well

http://www.aircooledtech.com/end_play/

This is a good cheap tool to use with feeler gauges. available on ebay and many other places ( I just copied this one.)

https://www.doghouserepair.com/store/item/3...-tool-kit-empi/

Better way is with a dial indicator, I used the feeler gauge tool first to get in the range and did the final measurement with the dial indicator. You probably can get it close enough with the feeler gauges, I'm just anal about stuff. ( that why everything takes me so long)

This was my setup



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stugray
setting endplay
Sorry, couldnt resist....
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