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thieuster
Right, after this morning's euphoric moments, time to assess the technical things carefully. First question coming up: the brakes.

All brakes (F. & R.) are overhauled + new hoses are installed. I presume that the previous owner has bled them carefully. Nevertheless, I think that the pedal travels far / I have to push it a long way down before anything happens. Granted, then they work good. But, I'm used to other classic cars with on power assisted brakes and I'm used to brake pedals with a firm feel even after a short press with my foot.

Re-bleeding is an option what are the most obvious things to look for other than bleeding. For now, the brakes do not look as if there's a leakage and there's plenty of fluid in the reservoir - but I haven't checked the master cylinder yet. It's getting dark overhere.

Menno
billh1963
Pedal should be firm and brakes should grab pretty quickly. 914 brakes have a reputation for being hard to bleed...you probably still have air in the system
DRPHIL914
[quote name='billh1963' date='Apr 1 2015, 02:28 PM' post='2168380']
Pedal should be firm and brakes should grab pretty quickly. 914 brakes have a reputation for being hard to bleed...you probably still have air in the system
[/quote agree.gif
also if the rear venting clearance is not set you will not get a firm pedal because you are pushing more fluid to move the pad too far. i had this issue and had that set by a professional who then also re-bled them for me . i did not have al lthe air out, but i had not bench bled my new master cylinder so that was part of why i had air as well. .
thieuster
QUOTE
rear venting clearance


Ah, it's because the 914 is new to me, or there's a language barrier here. But would you be so nice to explain this feature. (TBH, I haven't been under the car in detail like this, looking for the rvc, so perhaps it's easily spotted when I have a look)

Menno

EDIT: I just did what I was supposed to do first... did a google search on Rear Venting Clearance and the Pelican site brought enough info to play with!

M.
Dave_Darling
Another possibility is that the pushrod between the pedal and the master cylinder may need to be adjusted. I do not remember the spec off the top of my head, but I think Mr. Haynes remembers it.

--DD
somd914
Agree with all the others above, but will say rear venting clearance has a significant effect on pedal play based on my experience.
mskala
Also, on newly rebuilt calipers the free play will be more due to the new seals.
This will go away after a short while.
DRPHIL914
QUOTE(thieuster @ Apr 2 2015, 01:48 AM) *

QUOTE
rear venting clearance


Ah, it's because the 914 is new to me, or there's a language barrier here. But would you be so nice to explain this feature. (TBH, I haven't been under the car in detail like this, looking for the rvc, so perhaps it's easily spotted when I have a look)

Menno

EDIT: I just did what I was supposed to do first... did a google search on Rear Venting Clearance and the Pelican site brought enough info to play with!

M.

rear venting clearance sets the position of the inside brake pad in the rear caliper, or when the pressure is off, how much space is between the pad and rotor when the pedal is not compressed. if there is too much space then it will take more pumps with the pedal, or atleast further down to push enough fluid to make the piston push the pad into contact with the rotor. -- there is a proceedure that has to be followed to set this and should be rechecked yearly as the pad wears down. - check the manual - its possible someone here has done this and written it up on the forum. .

P.W.
McMark
QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Apr 1 2015, 10:59 PM) *

Another possibility is that the pushrod between the pedal and the master cylinder may need to be adjusted. I do not remember the spec off the top of my head, but I think Mr. Haynes remembers it.

--DD

1mm gap between the rod and the piston inside the master cylinder. This equates to between 5-7mm of free travel at the pedal itself.

But the measurement isn't particularly critical. The important thing is that the actuating rod should not touch the piston at rest, and it should only move a little bit before making contact.
McMark
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