Good Morning World,

My name is Chuck and I've been lurking on here for some time. I have a 1974 2.0L that I purchased a couple years ago from Craig at Camp 914. Very solid car but did leak a bit of oil (what 914 doesn't lol). Well the oil leak did start to become an issue with the significant other and the time has come to pull the engine and begin the teardown/rebuild process. More on this below.

The car does appear to be stock with the exception of EMPI carbs that were added a few years back, along with an EMPI distributor MSD ignition, coil and tach control unit have been added to facilitate the Carbs. I do have most of the D-jet components and considering re-using. The previous owner said he was chasing a leak some where and couldn't cure the high idle and made swapped to carbs.

Other Mods that have been done were the addition of J-West shift kit, conversion to 5lug, knock off Fuchs(wish I could afford the real ones), Knock off's will have to do for now.

From the pics you will see that the oil leak is primarily around the cylinders on the underside and at the cylinder heads. Not sure if the sealant used or was applied properly during a previous rebuild.

As you will note in the pics the heads do appear to be in really good shape along with the cylinders. My plan is to re-use the heads and if these cylinders are stock I'd like to bore to 96mm and install KB pistons/hastings rings. Change the cam to a suitable cam once I decide on which Fuel delivery system I want to use. If not stock d-jet then I'd like to get my hands on a set of Italian webers. if the crank and rods are good and no line bore is required then all these components will be re-used in my build.

I know questions and comments will be forthcoming and appreciate all comments from everyone and any advice you'd like to provide
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Nice looking car

with as clean as the cylinder fins look that motor can't have a hell of a lot of mileage since the last time it was apart

if you clean the cylinder below the lowest fin/ above the blue sealing area you should find the part number and vw logo.

the flat top pistons should have value if they are reusable

Thanks George. the body is in really good shape little to no rust.

I was trying to figure where that stamp is located for the cylinders so thank you for that. The pic is deceiving along with the carbon build up but the pistons are slightly dished.

I wish i knew when it was rebuilt last. It's just too bad the seals let go around the cylinders otherwise this would still be installed and i'd be

I have some history on the car. the previous owner was in oregon and he purchased out of washington state I'm going to say back in 08/09 from a guy who also had a 1.7L. other than that I have no further history. I have loaded my vin and engine number on this site.

I just see that at #3 cylinder in the head the breather tube is pushed down hitting the valve spring....

Just did the same exact thing on my engine. Also building a 2056 d-jet. The weak point on my engine was the cam. It was toast. The rest wasn't too bad, just horribly, horribly dirty.

My crank and heads were good, just needed polishing and a valve job. Case needed align bore though. I'll cross my fingers for you that your major dollar pieces check out.

I'm having my machine work done right now at EMW, and hope to be driving again by Summer

[quote name='Bleyseng' date='Apr 2 2015, 02:57 PM' post='2168972']
I just see that at #3 cylinder in the head the breather tube is pushed down hitting the valve spring....

thanks bleyseng, I completely missed that. Ill need to address that!

Hey mapguy what cam did you go with for your djet setup? Ya I hope I dont have case alignment issues otherwise it will get costly quick for me.

Hello and welcome!! I'm from Regina but have been living in Calgary for a while now.
3 914's in my neighborhood, we have our own little association.
Welcome to this site, you're gonna love it. Incredible amount of knowledge available here. Good luck with your 2056 build.
Mike

if indeed it was rebuilt it seems to me there may have been water in the valve cover???

Is that rust on the valve train?

Good for you doing a rebuild.
For you to take note of, the CHT bung should be on the number 3 head port, next to the spark plug hole , near the rear of the motor. That will help you keep the heads oriented properly as you go to clean them and get them ready for inspection....that tape wont last long...

Measure what you have for piston diameter....might be worth keeping that setup...never know.

Rich

I went with the Raby 9590 cam kit from LN. It comes with all the goodies needed to make the whole valve train. I've heard nothing but good things about this cam.

You will have to tune the MPS if going D-Jet. I would recommend either that or getting real webers. I've not had good luck with Empi carbs in the past, but YMMV.

If you choose webers, you can pick a bigger cam from someone like web and probably make a bit more power. The 9590 is specifically for D-Jet.

For me, I want the car to appear stock under hood, but make more power.

Hey Rich, yup that's rust on that bank. The vacum line was disconnected from that cylinder and ill assume water got in through there and rusted it out. Im more than likley going to find a good set of 1.7l rocker arms and go with 911 swivel feet.

This is my first ever build so im taking my time and going to learn as I go. Im might need to farm out part of the build as I dont have the skill or tools to setup or properly cut pushrods, balance the whole assembly or do head work. For me the tear down is good experience and gives me the knowledge of how all the components work and if I do need to do servicing after its all back together then I have an uderstanding of where components are.

I need to get the djet layed out and see what actually still works. If it becomes to costly to get it working im thinking of putting the empis back on as they did work when I removed them but I know they will need to be setup for this build which would require me to send them to someone to get setup properly. I would also change the linkage to either the tangerine or the triad setup. The hex bar seems like so many many moving parts to setup and adjust and get just right. Id like real webers but cost is approaching the price of an ms or sds setup. With the sds the guys that make that system are 6hrs away in calgary which is plus for us canadians eh.

So many options thats the fun part of this reading and learning.