I need to remove the hydraulic cylinder on my lift to have it serviced. There are snap rings at the end of the solid cylinder. I removed the snap ring and beat on it with a hammer but it didn't budge. If I use a bigger hammer, I think it will just mushroom the solid cylinder.

Suggestions?

Thanks

Aaa

Heat it up good with a MAP torch and use a drift smaller than the diameter of the pin.

Soak it with penetrating oil. Put a large pipe wrench on the non-snap ring end & try to turn the pin. By carefully inspecting & prying you should be able to tell which pc. the pin is stuck in. See if you can move the cylinder or the lock bar side to side, if so it is not frozen in them. Then you can concentrate on the ears. Oxy/acet. works better than map or propane.

Heat will help but usually if it's stuck in the rod end itself heat won't do much without ruining something due to the bushing that is most likely in there.

Placing a second sledge hammer against the ear on the opposite side will help when hitting the pin with a sledge. If you get it to move at all then work it back & forth or twist it while soaking it. If it mushrooms over some then just grind the mushroom part off.

I was hoping there was a way to press it out.
I need to buy a large drift

Penetrating oil such as PB blaster. Use daily for three or four days.
Then as mentioned- allot of heat. Map is better than propane. Heat the
bracket around the pin.

Very large "welders" C-Clamp (not the cheap woodworkers ones).
HD or HF carries them for ~ $20

Back in the day when I was working on construction equipment I use to remove many different size hydraulic cylinders. The best way to get that pin to move is by putting a lot of heat to it. Only heat up the outer mount points and then spray the heck out of it with some penetrating fluid. If I was out in the field doing this job I had a custom tool that I made up. Basically it was a hardened rod smaller then the pin welded to a square tube. I used a large sledge hammer to strike the tool only (not the pin) while a helper held the tool in place. Once you mushroom that pin end you will either have to try the other side or grind the mushroom end down. There should be a bushing within the cylinder rod so be careful when you start to get to that point.
The other method is by welding a jack hammer bit to the pin and using a 60 lbs air jack hammer... worked every time. Oh make sure that you do not have pressure on the pin from the cylinder..

You could also rent/borrow/buy a pin driver from a local hydraulic shop.
The shop that I worked for at the time was not broke by any means but they never liked to buy custom shop tools even if it made our job easier. In other words make sure you stretch real good before you start swinging that big ass sledge.

Best of luck.

Rebuilt a 1940 Allis Chalmers Tractor once...
Swearing helps, and Cursing, liberally applied...

Heat is the right path. Unfortunately, the mass that you are attempting to heat is probably too much for propane or MAP. The heat gets dissipated faster than you can put it into the lugs. You really need to use an Oxy/Acetylene torch. Needs to be able to put enough heat into the mounting ear to get it cherry red. Less than that is pretty much a waste of time.

Get it cherry red, and give it a good rap with a small sledge and the cylinder should pop right out. Try to focus the torch on the mounting ear.....and not on the cylinder stub that protrudes through.

Also, please note that the pin passes through (3) ears, and any or all of them could be frozen from corrosion, so heat up each one separately. Focus the torch on each ear separately attempting to get each ear cherry red. The differential temperature should cause the ear to expand more than the pin, thus breaking the corrosion bond. So, as each ear gets hot, give the pin a rap with a 5 or 10 pund sledge. Once the bond is broken, you can get a penetrating oil like PB Blaster or Kroil to flood the area, which should begin to resolve the corrosion products.

Lastly, in addition to attempting to pound the pin out, is there a way to get a pipe wrench on it to put some torque into the pin? That might help. If you end up knurling the end of the pin, you may need to grind the ridges off to extract the pin.

Is there anything close that a person could use in close approximity for a porta power to use, to push/brace against/footing, to push it out?