) It's a Setrab unit with a Spal fan, the smaller unit that a well known engine builder recommends 
Initially I was going to go the route of what I'd read on the bird board, but in typical fashion, I got a bit lazy and decided to go with a thermostatic sandwich plate, a Mocal SP1T. I did not get the one with the fancy banjo bolts. After perusing many a thread regarding this topic, I went with what Tradisrad did, and ran the lines up into the engine compartment and then out the rear tin. I removed the J pipe (which had been capped anyway) and found that your basic 2 1/2" computer table grommet works well as a seal, providing you cut another notch in it
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I used the cap that had been on the J pipe to cover the now open hole in the heat exchanger, so at least any engine fan pushed air would make it into the passenger compartment, perhaps to heat my wifes feet, but later for that... The lines are 10 AN btw. I ran them back to the tin, and then using a fine tooth 1 1/8 hole saw, cut the holes and used a couple of .95 cent rubber grommets to protect the lines from the tin
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Lastly, I fabricated a sheet metal plenum to mount above the cooler. The thought was to eventually run a hose from a NACA duct in the long cover that would provide cooler air, whether by motion or fan draw. That's to be done yet. The thermostat is mounted at the outflow side of the cooler, so it should only go on when the temp reaches 190, I didn't want it going on too soon and start cooling oil that wasn't up to temp yet. I was shooting for 200-210 degrees at speed, and based on my quick jaunt yesterday, looks to be right there. I'll know better after a long drive, where typically the engine would get into the 230-240 range, making the driver rather uncomfortable...
No issues with installing the Mahle filter, clears everything and sits only an 1 1/8" or so lower.
So that's about it. I'll try to post pics off the cell phone, and as I can't figger out how to make em smaller I might need to add my own reply
