There was a post back in Feb/15 with a "real" Porsche center cap on a 2.0 liter wheel that really looked great. I always wanted that look, and couldn't believe it was a coincidence that the "stock" center cap fit the recess perfectly (the retaining mechanism - ring or prongs - doesn't fit). Although, I've been told that the 3-prong type can be "modified" to work. I may give that a try, but I thought I'd go cheap first.
Someone wanted to know how to get this look, so this is what I came up with. It's a hack job for sure, and I'm sure the purists are going to look at me like I painted a moustache on the Mona Lisa, but here goes.
I installed 20mm spacers on the front, so that the grease cup on the hub is recessed below the surface of the wheel. I ordered them from machine7.com (in England). Of course, I had to get the 60mm wheel bolts too. Oddly, the heads for these bolts are 17mm, not 19mm like stock, so I had to order a 2nd set of bolt head covers from Otis/RAD.
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And this . . .
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I ordered the "cheapie" plastic center caps from CIP1.com. They were on sale for about $16 each . . .
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Then I sliced off the plastic clippy-things with a cutting wheel on a Dremel . . .
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Then, after roughing up the mating surfaces with a little sandpaper, I ran a bead of RTV around the wheel hub, and stuck the thing on. I then laid the wheel down, covered the cap with a towel, and put a heavy bottle jack on it while the sealant cured.
As my wife says, "It's far away from great, but great from far away." Actually, it looks pretty good from about 3 feet away.
I wanted to use the "real" metal center caps, but was afraid that their weight would make them more likely to come loose - as they are really just glued-on. Also, the caps I wanted to use are the black ones with the hand-painted crest, and cost $85-$100 each. If one of them fell off, I might well drive off the freeway to follow it - so it's really a safety issue.
This is an experiment, and if these plastic ones stay put, I may spend the $ on the "real" ones and give it a shot.
Waddya think?