Trying to install the front euro light bulbs and can't figure out how the little plastic piece is supposed to fit or stay there... am I missing something as it doesn't "slide" in as stated in instructions.

The piece is too small to stay in place without glue, etc...

Also assume the "top" is just in the plastic piece and doesn't mean anything relative to install.

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It been allot of yrs but

I think the white plastic goes in housing so it blocks the light between the top and
bottom. The white bit is held in by the lens on wide part.

You have it laying down, it needs to go on end and you will have to move the bulb
to the other side. So the bulb sticks out of the bottom and it's wire goes out with
the existing wire.

I'll take a picture tomorrow when I'm at the shop.

I actually threw away the white plastic piece because I didn't like the fit. I cut a piece of aluminum to separate the two sections of the housing (glued it in), then I drilled the bottom angled piece of the lower part of the light and inserted the bulb/rubber grommet.

I'm about ready to do the exact same thing myself.

I bought this kit about a year ago and it's still sitting in a box because it fits like crap. Not worth it. I ended up making my own out by CNC cutting some new brackets that resemble the originals more. Haven't quite finished it though.

Getting the piece of Aluminum trimmed up correctly to fit in the bucket and go all the way up to the lens so that the lights didn't leak between "compartments" was the hardest part.

Believe I used some thin cardboard to come up with the shape.

Putting the lamp / grommet supplied with the kit through a new hole in the bottom of the bucket turned out well. Think I used a 1/2" drill bit, drilled the hole, pulled the bulb out of the holder/grommet, finessed the holder/grommet into the hole and then put the bulb back in.

Here's pics of mine.

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Oh yea, I didn't get around to wiring them

Also the TOP labels are facing the bottom

Just ordered a set of Euro LEDs from Jerry so these new old stock bulb
assemblies will be for sale.

Bumping this up. Under which condition(s) is the lower clear part of the light supposed to light up and turn off?

First step of your lightswitch should light the clear part. Then it remains on untill the lightswitch is pushed in again.

Thank you for your response!

So clear part stays on with headlights as well?

Just get the Spokeworks Euro LED lights and be done with it........

These are the only 914 items that came up.

but not gonna do LED yet. Just need to know if clear portion stays on with headlights

so does clear portion of fron euro lense stay on with headlights on?

I just wired mine to go on independently so I can use them as daytime running lights.

Yes, the wire was run in between the holders inside the housing. I was test fitting.



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Thanks for the post and pic. I was thinking the clear portion should be on with headlights. It would be easy to wire them to follow side marker logic. But as you mentioned it can be done other ways

obsolute crap product,ditched mine and got a set from a vender member on here,very nicely made and fitted great.Click to view attachment.

^^^ that member kit looks great!

Yes they do. They are on the same circuit as the tail lights. They come on with the first click of the light switch (running lights) and stay on with the 2nd click of the light switch (headlights).

I rewired my running lights to come on with the ignition key. This is done very easily at the fuse panel.

Here's what I did.

First located the running light fuses on the fuse panel. These are noted as 58 on the owners manual.

For always on lights, I took switched power from the 15 group of fuses; the 25A fuse. To keep the running light current from the ignition switch, I added a relay to switch the power.

For full time power, (not switched), I grabbed power from the 30 group of fuses; the 25A fuse. The relay will connect the running light current to this fuse.

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I removed the 2 fuses for the running lights to verify these are the right fuses (they were). With fuses out, I turned on the running lights to determine which side of the fuses the power came in on. That means the other side are the running lights.

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Here's the relay I used. It's a simple relay available at most FLAPS. The red wire at the top of the picture is the relay coil which is connected to the switched power from the group 15 fuse. The brown wire is the negative of the coil and is attached to a chassis ground point.

The black wire is a relay contact and is connected to the constant power on the group 30 fuse.

The 2 red wires at the bottom are connected together and will attach to the group 58 fuses to the running lights. The original wires from the light switch to the running light fuses are disconnected and taped off.

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Done.

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Excellent illustration and explanation Spoke! Just so happens i have been working on my fuse panel and refurbishing the harness connections for the past couple weeks. So the schematics are still kinda fresh in the noodle

Thank you again for describing your running light mod, it is very helpful!