I have not worked on my 914 yet, but I was told by the previous owner that "something" is wrong with #3 cylinder, could be valve seats, could be injector or even something with the Megasquirt or a collapsed hydraulic lifter(?)

What I am contemplating is that should I even attempt to fix the 2.0 bus motor or focus on getting a 1.7 installed into the car?

Is the 2.0 bus motor that bad hp/torque wise that a stock 1.7 would be a noticeable improvement?

If the added cubic centimeters have the advantage what about converting it to solid lifters? Any performance increase or is that mostly for reliability?

I'd tear it down and see how bad it is first. you'd know what to do in just a few hours of work.

Depends on what is wrong with the 2.0 and how serious the fix it but i would stick with the 2.0 with hydo lifters in the bus if possible. If this were in a 914 I might say the opposite, but not in a bus/Vanagon.

I had hydro lifters in my 914 for 10 years, only problems I had with them:

1. Clattering on startup if they sat for a long time (not really a problem so much as an annoyance)

2. Inability to rev past 5k is RPMs. Not really a problem on a bus but annoying as hell in a 914.

In the 10 years i ran that motor, never had to adjust the valves, so that is a plus.

the 2.0 bus motor should have quite a bit more torque to get that box moving.

Properly converting to solids is more involved than just swapping the lifters, and in a bus really isnt going to gain you anything.

If it has the bus cam it'll be great for towing your boat but not much fun driving otherwise ...

This is my new-to-me '74 914

Checking the injectors is easy. Adjusting valves is easy. Get it running. Then do a leak down test. Pull the head if you must.

Don't split the case unless you are prepared for a full rebuild. Swapping lifters only is a waste of effort. If you're going to split it, do it up right.

Don't put solid lifters in a hydro cam engine as the ramps are different. Yep, stock hydro cam suck and don't rev past 4500rpms and still are only 70hp/ 100lbs of torque.
A good 1.7l is 80hp/100lbs torque and will rev to 5500 easy.

to swap out the lifters from hydraulic to solid, you would need to open the case and install a new camshaft.

On a good day, with lots of time to focus, I could do it in 30 hours (including install and removal of the motor)

With life, kids, distractions etc....it could be months...
its a rebuild, you will find other stuff that needs fixing.

I would suggest you find a core motor and install that....call it a day.

Rich

Around here, 30 hours would be 2 good days ...

My favorite piece of advice on this message board is "just get a running 1.7 in there and get on the road!"
Or something like that
It always amazes me how much more time and $$$ goes into the 2.0 projects, chasing gremlins, when a 1.7 with a header is a fraction of the cost and usually readily available.
TURBO!

ok, so a weekend (including friday night to remove the engine...)

I know Mike has a life, kids, chores etc...

Its got to be heads down with all the parts on the bench to get it done in 30 hours for me....cause these motors need to be built at least twice for CR setting....

For me that is at least three times cause I screw up one time somehow...

Get a 1.7, have a party to get help getting it in place and running and have the full day assigned by your wife because all your pals coming to help.

Rich

EXACTLY my sentiments.

Get it running at a bare minimum first. Don't start any projects you don't have ALL the pieces or funds for. What's that old saying? A 1.7 on the road is worth 3.2 in the garage.

My 914 came with a 2.0L bus motor, and it really wasn't that bad at all. Plenty of low end, but if a 1.7 is an option, I would definitely go with that.

Have McMark assemble a Raby Camper Special for you. Don't sweat the details.

Thanks all.....I think I will try and fix what i have 1st....now to stop looking at all the parts from European Motorworks and AA Performance!