As recently posted, my car arrived over here in DE (Germany) and to my dismay, the (custom racing) seat, all the way back of course, isn't giving me quite enough leg room for my left leg when using the clutch.

Thanks guys, to those of you who responded to my recent post, most suggesting that I change the seat, some suggesting the offset adapter to the steering wheel from J.W. Engineering (Rennshift), and naturally the possibility to use a smaller diameter wheel.

I am reluctant to change the seat, as it 1) matches the passenger seat, 2) matches the interior, 3) was not a cheap custom job (Sophie's Seat Design, Hollywood) and 4) they have the seat heaters from Camp 914!

So here's my idea / question...

the first thing I noticed when I got into the car and put my foot on the clutch was that I had to move my foot from far left, where it was, towards the center to get it to the clutch, which was when my thigh then came into contact with the wheel...

Has anybody ever done a modification to the pedal assembly to move the clutch pedal outward, to the left?

It seems to me that this would solve the problem and not be too difficult.

Is this something that's been done or is perhaps even somewhat common??

As always, thanks!

M.i.M.

The 914 clutch pedal already has a outward offset. 911 clutch pedals are straight. It should be possible to increase the bend at the bottom and rebent it at the top so the pedal pad is still perpendicular. You would need to modify the pedal board and carpet covering it.

Bruce

I raised up my steering wheel a bit and it made it good enough to live with. Loosten the 4 bolts for the column and shim up the back with some washers to raise up the wheel. The u joint will come in contact with some sheetmetal that will need to be cut away I used a dremel tool. Its tight working under there but it got the job done.

See if this helps. I'm 6'2" and the stock wheel was making it difficult to enter and exit the seat, plus it interfered with my legs somewhat.

What I did was replace the original steering wheel with a smaller 13" (350mm) Deep Dish Drift Spec Wheel. It requires a MOM adapter (8002) which is 3" deep. The deep dish off set of the Wheel is also 3" from the hub to the wheel grip which moved the wheel towards the driver. Because the steering column angles upward the wheel is slightly then elevated by moving the wheel closer to the driver.

The bottom of my wheel is 16" from the floor and 8" above seat at its forward edge. The top of the clutch peddle to the back of the Wheel is 24". The wheel having been moved closer to the driver also eliminated out stretched arms and is very comfortable. I can get in and out easily plus there is a lot more leg room.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productde...mpaign=201505-1

Thanks for these measurements and this idea, since adding a quick release that brings the wheel closer to the driver could also give me the same (similar) effect. Until now I though that would exacerbate the problem, but I can imagine how getting the wheel closer to your body would keep it away from the part of your left thigh which hits it when stepping on the clutch.

M.

This looks like a great solution! May not be TUV-approved, but with a quick release for both wheels, it won't matter at all

M.

Hi Bruce, thanks for chiming in here. That sounds like an interesting idea. It would also lower the pedal, but could it then become problematic with then not having the necessary range, i.e. clutch hits floor before being full engaged? I would be interested to see a scaled drawing of what the clutch pedal shaft would look like after this mod. Curved (as in s-curved) or two 90 degree kinks. Hmmm.

Have you done or heard of this being done before?

Just curious, what do you think of the idea of welding a bracket that goes from the clutch pedal shaft off to the left for an entirely new pedal surface, some estimated 3" or so further towards the corner. I'm just interested if I have a feasible or unfeasible idea here and if it's been considered or done before or not. In light of other, simpler solutions, I reckon it's a bit radical, but hey, crazier things have been done, for sure. It could even be easier than kinking the shaft, no?

M.

Show us a picture of the Custom seat and how it is mounted

K.I.S.S.

I think modifying or moving the pedals would be the hardest way to achieve what your after....


maybe think of the simplest way?

Like stock seats?

I found out today that TUV won't approve a quick release, and certainly not just any steering wheel. There are wheels that have already been approved and have a so-called ABE, and any other would need papers and test results and COULD get approved, but it can apparently be expensive.

Any wheel being used must, in any case, allow for a clear view of the speedometer. This is also relevant to and in every case in joint consideration of the wheels, tires and whether the car has power steering or not. And I'm not sure if this is true yet or not, but even the hub adapter might need to be approved! OMG.

In any case, the wheel pictured above is not (going to be) allowed.

I'm thinking of a 33-34cm wheel with an approximate 65mm (about 2.5") offset (deep dish). I cannot however know how this will allow for a view of the speedo without putting it in first.

If you happen to have a 33 or 34 cm Momo wheel, or anything similar, could you please post the specs a photo of your view and leg room? That would be awesome!

Thanks,

M.i.M.

I was only considering the feasibility and curious whether it's been done before or not.

I think it would be very easy to move over the pedal. either by heating it and bending or cutting and welding. The clutch arm is much weaker than the brake arm. The one on my 911 actually broke off in the middle and i had to weld it back together

If seeing the speedo is the real issue. Why don't you order one of the aftermarket GPS based speedo with the HUD (heads up display). You put a small film on the inside of the windshield. Like a 2"x4" piece & the HUD puts your speed on your windshield constantly. This would alleviate the issue of seeing it through your wheel. Not sure if the TUV would go for that or not